GTSBoy

Yeah, I presumed that the pic was of some other car, because of the F. Ikeya arms.

I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new. The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.

Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.

Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.

Except for the aero/speedflow adapter option, which is essentially the same thing without the bending and flaring.

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine. That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

Hot plugs not being a good idea in a massively boosted engine?

Put some more sleeve/hose over the top of the brake line for protection and let it rub? Make a plastic or metal nozzle to provide the last little bit of length of duct. The nozzle made to clear the brake line, the cooling air hose shortened to keep it away from the brake line? Make a short hard line to move the end of the brake hose away? (by far the best of the easy options).

I'm not the sort of person to click on a random link to something called files.fm/nrn9something something somehting

That is way too loose. What is the state of the tensioner?

Congrats. Got your asking?

I expect it's just slang from somewhere for a low reading dyno. Probably originates in the US where the inertia dyno is king and some actually might be "heavier" than others.

All of the above posts have valid points!

^ This.

I would absolutely be starting with this idea over all other possibilities. It sounds f**ked.

What car? What ECU?

And also, as small as the effect may be, the larger exhaust side places a lower restriction on the exhaust flow, even when off boost. When my bigger turbo went on you could hear the difference in the exhaust note at cruise (almost everywhere actually) and fuel consumption went down a little bit.

Oops. Sorry mate. It is both excellent to hear and also surprising though. The amount of work required to (effectively manually, not on a production line) build a core vs your low retail price point is why I presumed that you were buying cores. But let's also be clear about what is meant by "build". At your price point I can't see you making cores from billet on a mill, even if CNC, or doing all the machine work on a rough casting. Surely the lumps of metal are sourced more or less ready to go from an Asian supplier, right? Maybe the same with shafts. I mean, you could turn shafts up yourself, but it's pretty slow going for items that are all essentially bulk order producable. I was always perfectly willing to believe that you assemble your wheels to shafts, fit up bearings and do all the balancing. I actually expected that you would have been doing all that even if the core did arrive from a supplier with most of that pre-assembled. Nevertheless, please accept my apology.

No, that should not happen. As to what has happened....it's anyone's guess.

Which is a thing done by no-one ever. Not even remotely a good idea. I would run an engine with 10:1 these days. Good management and fuel compared to the early 90s when these boat motors were designed & built.

I think you misunderstand. This was Greg driving from Melb to Syd (or return) at a constant 100km/h on the highway. Very little throttle movement, very little accel/decel. You should be able to get 8.5 l/100km under those circumstances (which is effectively what he reports - 50L for 600km is 8.3 l/100km). I drive my car to & from work every day, in traffic, on a mixture of 50, 60, 90 km/h roads (and therefore at up to 110km/h!!) with traffic lights and freeway sections. 28 km each way, so about a 30-40 minute drive depending on day, direction and traffic (which is enough for the majority of the drive to be "fully warmed up". I typically get flat 10 l/100km every single week. OK, maybe 10-10.5, every single tank of fuel. RB25DET Neo. It is easy to get acceptable economy. I won't say "good" economy, because modern cars are doing 5-6 l/100km in the same conditions.

Superpro are fine. There are some applications (R32 FUCAs for example) where they are no damn good, but typically for any normal suspension bush, they are fine. Some people will complain of them making noise. Some people will complain of them collapsing. But many of those can probably be traced back to not properly lubing at install or other installation problems, or possibly other problems elsewhere in the suspension that put additional load into particular bush. And for the legit complaints? Meh. Deal with it. I had to replace the poly bushes in my R32 FUCAs every year. The real issue is that I am sold on the idea of adjustability of at least upper arms. So I only have spots for poly bushes in lower arms these days, as everything else is either hardened rubber or spherical steel.

Nah. Any decent third party diagnostics unit should be able to talk Consult and all the other non-OBD protocols from back in the day. It's only 25 years since OBD started taking over. There's many cars from that ear still on the road. My mechanic's diag terminal is plenty able to talk to the other CUs in my car. Well, those that are still present, anyway. That's probably only the HICAS CU, as there never was an ABS or TCS or SRS CU, and the TCU went in the bin 25 years ago.