GTSBoy

They're noisy at idle. So what's new?

I can't answer the exact question, but.... custom braided lines are not hard to organise. I'd just front up with measurements of the two parts of the hose length (from body fitting to strut mount, from strut mount to caliper) and samples of the fittings needed at each end, and....wait 30 minutes.

And..... what model? Here's a big recommendation. Do not consider operating the car with a significant turbo upgrade on the stock ECU. You really need to be tuning it, otherwise you will blow off the end of the stock maps and be running in "make it up as you go along" land.

No. Apart perhaps from removing the carpet under 3 of the mounts and slotting the 3rd one by about 4mm. Then you gain....4mm.

Fan should spin. But because the viscous fluid in the coupling should be "thin" until it heats up, it won't transmit as much drive to the fan as it can once hot. So the fan runs much slower cold than hot. 33°C is a pleasant spring day here in Australia. It shouldn't be roaring. It should definitely be louder and working harder, but shouldn't sound like a crappy old 4WD. Just to be clear...... when these things fail they don't necessarily fail totally. They don't necessarily just lock on cold. They can still be quiet when cold, but just get noisy at lower temperatures than they are supposed to. I bought genuine Nissan. I gave up on the aftermarket ones.

Fan should be quiet at that time. The clutch should only start to "lock up" as it gets hot. Some but not much. If it is quite stiff, then it's well f**ked. Yup. As per my post above....I think Dayco might be OK. Not 100% sure. I've not had any luck at all with anything aftermarket. Only the genuine original Nissan one.

Whilst being entirely proprietary. The protocol is called Nissan Consult. It's Nissan's own serial diagnostics interface and protocol, only used on Nissans. But any good general purpose scan tool should be able to do it.

Take it a mechanic who has a scan tool.

The GTR was a monster that was born under the sea in Japan. The climate there is not as.....bakingly hot as it is here in Oz. The local Nissan engineers, and in particular the guys who wanted to homologate the GTR to race it here, wanted to make sure they weren't going to suffer any heat related problems. All the grey import GTRs are sans these coolers and do not suffer too many problems. Almost no-one ever thrashes a GTR to the point where it becomes an issue. You'd need to be leaning on the car very hard in fairly hot conditions. Not saying that there are no GTRs out there that had been used in this fashion and needed coolers added. Just saying that it is not the #1 problem. Not even the #10 problem.

Why does this happen in the USA and not elsewhere in the 30 years we've had these cars?

Mode door actuator failure is very common. Pain in the arse to swap out too.

It is called "upper" engine cleaner. Only a tiny fraction of anything moved by it should end up in the oil, so it really shouldn't matter when you do it. If you're paranoid, do it beforehand. In reality, I'm assuming you're talking about putting it in a RB engine, in which case, they hardly build up anything that will get moved by this stuff anyway. I've put a few cans through my car over the years. Never noticed any difference afterwards. I'm not recommending against its usage. It's just that it is a Subaru product for a reason. The engines that Subaru intend it for have a significant problem with building up crud in the intake tract because of the design features of the engine. The RB simply doesn't have those features. Other shitty modern engines (ie, almost anything, really) will benefit from this stuff far more than an RB will.

A honeycomb will help if you can't put it in a "good" spot. A "good" spot will be as far downstream from a previous bend as possible. In reality, it really doesn't matter much either way, because whatever the velocity distribution across the pipe, you just tune to the reading of the meter anyway. It's not as if we're measuring grams per second of air flow here. We're just measuring % between minimum and maximum and injecting fuel to make the exhaust O2 correct.

They either have to religiously stick below the dB limits or just sell the track to developers and give up. Having said that, there is noise about a great deal of grumbling wrt the rather savage effect this has had on all the related businesses in Goulburn. The hotels, etc. Apparently pretty chopped their businesses down in one fell swoop. Apparently there might be some NIMBYs told to pull their heads in by council. Defo a wait and see for the moment.

Why would you need a guide? Find new spot, mount there. Make new hoses to suit and alter wiring ditto.

Just put a little bead of silicone in there and let it set off before fitting.

What's under the armrest on the back side of the door trim?

Remove. Or bolt to the strut tower like they did in 1990.

I've had some further back and forth with our Irish friend. Car was fine before head came off. Head only came off for pre-emptive/reparative replacement of many gaskets to correct oil leaks, etc. Valve stem seals were put in by a shop. Close inlet clearances and rough running only became apparent after reassembly. There's no information on whether the clearances were tight before the engine was pulled apart. I'm out of ideas beyond taking the head back off, taking it (with the cams) to the head shop, and perhaps testing for teh head having gone soft, leading to valve seat recession.

Yeah, Mishimoto seems to be a dirty word. Their radiators are suspect too.

I've copied in my reply from PM below. The first bit about a "bad cam" relates to a question in the PM. I think the lack of a clear sequence in the OP above is the same as in the PM question, so my reply works here equally well. Let's see if we can clarify that and get into it from there.

I don't understand the question. The HICAS solenoid in the engine bay has nothing to do with the front steering. There is a (very small) solenoid on the power steering rack. That remains connected. So long as the HICAS CU in the boot remains connected to the larger of the two loom plugs, PS continues to work.

NOBODY ever seems to listen when i talk about rebuilding hydraulic components.....so good luck with this advice Ben.

I wouldn't presume that an R33 one would work in a 32, but it's maybe possible. I would, on the other hand, assume that all R32 climate control boxes would work on all other R32s, because as far as I know the pinout never changed and the functionality never changed. 13v is close enough to the correct voltage of a fully charged 12V battery. They should sit at 12.7 - 12.9V anyway. Get the wiring diagram out, and start working out which wire is which, and which wire has power on it (and whether it should or shouldn't have power on it) and go from there. Just poking with a test light is not troubleshooting. You have to understand what you see and what you're looking for.

Any Jap 3" exhaust that is JASMA compliant will have a 2.5" restrictor in it somewhere that f**ks them anyway. Hotdogs are shit. If you want the exhaust to sound reasonable, put a decent sized centre-offset 3" muffler in the middle and the cannon on the rear. Plus, consider a cat. Decat is stupid.