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rat32r last won the day on August 16 2018

rat32r had the most liked content!

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About rat32r

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  1. Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled. So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and play
  2. My personal car runs The Mitsubishi alternator, made in Japan, OEM on all Holden ls1 engines. All others I have seen not including powermaster but they might be, are made in China. It's a personal choice but as my favourite saying goes. The poor man pays twice
  3. When upgrading alternator I do suggest adding another power cable inline as factory system as you pointed out has a fuse 80 on Gts-t and run through a larger spade terminal at the fuses boa the gets real tired, especially in a r32 Gts-t, r32 gtr runs twin terminal to spread the load.
  4. Sounds about right, seen voltage like that on most factory setups, FYI Ls1 alternator gets 14.5v to 14.2v all the way to redline. Bit extra voltage for you pumps, coil packs heaps a lot. And if your running A Agm battery you need 14.2 to charge it correctly. Buy the way I like that you are using ssr [emoji106]
  5. Hi yes I can send to NZ. You can SMS me on +61417677905 or Email clockworkcustoms@yahoo.com.au Or find me on face book Andrew Cwc Hoareau To work out the shipping cost etc..
  6. What alternator are you running? What's your voltage at peak rpm ?
  7. CWC Ls1 kit sits right at home bolted to a Prp Billet bracket
  8. Before and after voltage reading @1200rpm ons standard r32 gts-t
  9. All good man, Billtech is a top bloke and good at what he does.
  10. Mr Billtech uses my kits but I am not him even though we are both named Andrew. Does that answer your question
  11. Oem Ls alternators are made in Japan so you'll keep the origin correct [emoji23]
  12. LS that thing and I'll give you a good price just for the entertainment this thread has provided me
  13. rat32r

    Bought that a couple months back don't know how I survived all these years without it.