Nissanmania

Yes, that's mine - a 7670 on 23psi on a SR 2.2L pushing out some impressive numbers. Still waiting for an assessment of why the compressor shaft snapped after 1 dyno run and 1 and 1/2 laps at Barbagallo during a slow warm-up lap. I'm a big fan of the EFR and pretty impressed with my 9180 on an RB34 that's run faultlessly for 3 seasons+ of racing.

Phew, it's been a long time coming but planning on hitting the track for the first round of the Street Car Championship at Barbagallo on March 18th so hope the effort pays off and the box plays ball! BTW, they now do a custom short RWD bellhousing for the Skyline which would make life so much easier.

Fitting one of these right now into an R32 Skyline (RWD). Not a straight-forward fit and wouldn't recommend unless capable with panelbeating/welding and general nutting things out to engineer this into your car. Maybe when they make a custom bellhousing to suit rather than using the front half of the box casing it will be easier to fit as this moves the box 200mm or so further back than stock which creates most of the fitting issues. It is a big box and is a hefty 38kg. My car is putting out at least 750Nm torque at flywheel so needed something that could handle this and around 10K cheaper than the Hollinger given that it comes with shift cut load cell and shifter mechanism. You do have to have an old R32 RWD case though - not a problem for me! Can check out https://www.facebook.com/topcatracing/ for updates.

Awesome work!

Update on this one - crown wheel and pinion from V-Spec R34 diff fit no probs into R32 case with R32 LSD.

Ok, thanks for the clarification.

I would get a new centre and half shafts so that's not an issue. So the R34 Gtr v-spec crown wheel and pinion will fit in the R32 rear diff housing and bolt up to an approprite centre? Excuse my ignorance but the R32 gtr diff is a long nose? I believe there is a Navara/Pathfinder 3.5 ratio diff out there.

So are you saying a Navara 3.55 diff centre or at least crown and pinion will fit into an R32 case?

No, just need rear diff as it's a RWD GTST but running R32 GTR running gear

Sorry, should have been more specific - the question was about the rear diff.

Any ideas if the R34 GTR V-spec 3.5 diff crown and pinion will fit on R32 GTR diff centre/case?

So what's happening with this thread or someone got a link to new thread?

I use a 92 EB Falcon wagon to tow 2 tonne of race car/trailer plus tools/fuel etc in the back of the wagon to race meets for last 2 and 1/2 seasons. It's a 4L straight 6 which is a rare 5 speed manual (was an ex Ag department tow vehicle) and done well over 500K+ in its long life. I wouldn't say it does the job easily but it does the job and hasn't let me down yet. What was needed to get it over the line as a tow car was: 1. Properly rated tow package - Ford item is only rated to 1500kg 2. Air springs on rear - essential to keep car level (and stops the mud flaps doing any work!) 3. Electric brakes on both axles with override system - legal requirement if over 2 tonne which pretty much any Skyline will be on a trailer. My car weighs 1250kg but trailer is 700kg. Add a spare trailer tyre, some spares inside car and couple of jerry cans and well over the legal 2 tonne limit for single braked axle trailer) 4. Stay out of 5th gear - is always going to be the first one to snap! Is being retired once my new Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD arrives!! (This week hopefully after 4 month wait!)

Just to add another brand in the mix - The AIM Smartycam is not a bad piece of kit. Upsides are: 1. If you have a digital dash - especially an AIM one but will interface with most types - it will pick up data (both from dash and ECU connected to dash) in real time and overlay it for you over your video. No messy software work when you get home. Use their easy to use SmartyManager software to configure your display. Can also get loom to connect to most ECU's and can display a vast amount of data on-screen if you wish. (I had upgraded firmware in this video and neglected to set the brake parameter correctly so this is why it's not showing on this video) 2. Has in-built GPS and 3-axis accelerometer so picks up speed and G's (I don't have speed sensing in my car so I use the Smartycam to feed road speed to the dash) This allows you to create GPS track map but unfortunately only if have a logging dash. Will however do lap timing in stand-alone mode via setting GPS beacon position. 3. Will auto turn on and off (via programmable speed sensing) so no effort is needed in this department. Important in a race situation as there's enough to do without remembering to turn your camera on, especially if it's hard to reach from your seat. 4. Cable that connects to dash also provides power so no battery to worry about. 5. Can be used in stand-alone mode or interfacing with dash/ecu. If in stand-alone mode uses in built rechargeable battery which seems to last well 3hrs is claimed). Is reasonably compact considering how powerful it's functions and simply mounts via rollbar mount or suction cup mount or various other mounts. 6. Reasonable sound quality - newer versions do allow for use of external microphone which may help further or give option of intercom pickup. 7. Picture quality is pretty good. (Though not HD) 8. Records onto MicroSD that slots into back of unit. As you can get 32GB cards now, one card will easily do a day's racing (especially with it's auto on/off feature) Downsides: 1. Probably mainly cost. (I've had it now for a few years and can't remember exact price locallly but is $999 on Ebay from US). For this reason I'd be reluctant to hang it outside the car. 2. GPS feature won't allow stand-alone track mapping which is a shame. May appear in future updates? I have a ChaseCam system fitted in the car as well (pointing rearwards) and this is OK but is not as functional or does it provide as good quality video as the SmartyCam.

I've got the Plastics4Performance 5mm side windows in hardened and 4mm elsewhere in R32 racecar. Have 6mm screen (min thickness CAMS allows to race) coming in next week (hopefully). Have got some windscreen tear-offs to protect from sandblasting/wiper damage. - even glass screens get badly damaged racing at Barbagallo. Other than weight saving the other big plus is safety. Have a look at their video of impact testing. What would punch straight through glass (and you!) just bounces off Lexan with hardly a scratch. The finish on the windows with the OEM blackout is fantastic and fitted perfectly - looks factory. The side windows still have electrics and haven't been scratched even slightly in a season of racing use (nice to be able to get some fresh air while in pit lane!) so the hard coating is well worth it at least on these windows. The side windows do flex a bit so you'll need to open the door to wind up the last bit so they seal on the top rubber. Other than that they work fine when fully closed.