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About NiHaoMiaoMiao

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    R34 Gtt
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  1. Thanks for the advice @robbo_rb180. I ended up cutting the metal brackets for the engine mounts and dropped the motor 7.5mm cold side and 6.5mm hot side. The washers on the bolts restricted how much further down I could cut without fouling them when refitting. So far so good... just the TCS module on the throttle body touching the middle brace. I have two options here, 1. Cut out the fouling point of the brace. 2. Run a R33 throttle body. From reading some ancient posts on here, they are pretty much the same throttle body minus the TCS module. Of course I would be re-using the R34 TPS. Just wanted to see if anyone has had any issues with fitting a 33 throttle body on a 34 or just yolo and go agricultural on the bracing? Cheers, Daniel
  2. Hey everyone, Just as an update for future reference, it will foul the stock bonnet, definitely touching the cam gear cover and possibly the front corner of the intake plenum. Will look into it more and update here. @robbo_rb180 Would I need to extend the steering column/intermediate shaft to be able to space that far down? and would there be drivability issues such as vibrations etc. from the change of geometry? @R32GTS-t RB25DET I have fathomed that option but $1500+ for a Greddy, then cutting holes into the body for the cooler piping gives me shudders lol. Also want to retain the low-end torque that the stock plenum provides. Would anyone have any experience of it fitting with just the resizing of the engine mount holes only and some trimming of the bonnet brace? specifically for an r34? Thanks in advance!
  3. Maybe the heat wrap has caused the issue? Not a fan of them myself, traps the heat in...
  4. running standard crank, forged internals (cp pistons, spool rods, acl bearings). 0.5mm bore and hone to suit pistons and the usual things to do while apart such as linish crank, grub screw crank etc. the stock rb30 bottom end will take a beating if its in decent condition. i just went with forged as i was already there and will go for bigger power later down the track.
  5. Hey mate, not yet. Build had a few delays but should be together soon! Got the bottom end assembled. Will update here for future reference 👍 Cheers! Daniel
  6. Hey guys, Just wondering if there is any differences between the intake and exhaust valve spring washers? The ones that the spring rests on. I didn't have them taken prior to getting it cleaned so they came back all in a bag. Also, I thought I read or watched a video where it mattered which side of the washer was facing up... but I may be just imagining that. Cheers fellas, Daniel
  7. You guys are legends! Thanks for the in-depth discussion and support. I had a chat to Trent/Cat and they do offered a really competitive price in terms of supply and tune. They do prefer Haltech as they believe Links are harder to tune. I've been watching a lot of videos on tuning lately, so learning lots as well. Picking up head today and start re-assembling, get clearances done on that, and hopefully bottom end mid next week. Keen as a bean if you can't tell ? Definitely will have lots of questions if I go down the tune it myself path. Cheers again fellas ?
  8. Thanks guys, really appreciate the info and experience! I think I may be swayed to the Link G4X due to the features, I will definitely have a chat to Trent first before jumping the gun. Yep, I was planning to install it and get it drive able before it goes to get a tune. I initially wanted to tune it myself, but with no experience, I thought it best be taken to a professional.
  9. Thanks Johnny, that's really good to know. I think you boys have definitely helped sway my decision. Definitely between the Link and Haltech at this stage. While I would love to think I'll be keeping my mods mild for the 25/30, the mod bug is already itching and engine is still getting final measurements done at the shop (rings gaps etc.) ? From your experience Johnny, do you have a preference between the two?
  10. Thanks for info GTSBoy! It does look like I'll be ruling out the Nistune now.. Hopefully Trent will be back up and operating soon. Need to have a chat with him ASAP! Damn covid...
  11. GTSBoy my saviour! haha Wow, no I didn't know about that. The lower cost enticement is diminishing if support is cr*p. As it currently stands, once the motor is done, it will be running a standard turbo for the time being. However, it will definitely be getting a decent power upgrade down the track, perhaps one of Hypergears AT45s, G35 or 3582r etc. so that rules out the Nistune I guess? Is there more details as to why the Neo ECU has issues with lots of power? I do like the Link, but it seems that I will need to fork out extra to delve down the path of MAP sensors where as the cool-aid ECU has inbuilt 1.5 bar...
  12. Hey all, Have been trawling through various threads about ECUs and I will need to make a decision of what one to use quite soon. For initial break-in, I will be using my standard GTT ECU. The general consensus is Nistune is more than enough and if budget persists, a Haltech Platinum Pro or Link G4X. Engine will be a RB25/30 Neo. However, during my research I did come across the fairly new Adaptronic Modular ECUs which are also plug and play. https://adaptronic.com.au/collections/modular-plug-in-ecus/products/emod006-r34-skyline-gtt Has anyone had any experience with these, as looking at the specs, it's pretty feature packed for its price. I'm no ECU expert, but how would they compare to the Haltech and Link? My only hesitation with going Nistune is the thought that I may move away from MAF to MAP in the future... Tuner wise, I think I will go with Trent from Chequered Tuning as he is VERY reputable. Cheers! Daniel
  13. Link for the kit? You will need to bore and hone the cylinders 0.5mm if they haven't been done before as the stock pistons are 86mm. While you have the whole thing apart, you might as well give it an acid bath, make it nice and clean and make sure you check the deck, machine if needed. Big list I could yap on about and it will start to add up fast. lol A stroker kit will come with the lot so not sure how much help I'd be without more info (the machine shop work is unavoidable whichever scenario you head in). First question would be, do you really need a rebuild? Low comp, damaged internals or just because? as RB's make plenty of power with a stock bottom end.
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