SargeRX8

Is that an Active LSD?

Lol thats pointless then. If you get a new tacho, its going to have to be recalibrated as out of the box, those 320km/h ones might not be calibrated for your car...

Happens when I blow into it and goes away when I pinch at the wastegate nipple. Is this a problem? Cause of my random 14psi spikes? The sounds is also easy to pin point from the wastegate area.

Pretty much as above. You see cars often doing a piss in the mornings. It's fine man. As for bleeding the cooling system this is something I need to look I to with m new turbo install.

Standard internal wastegate. I was actually thinking it could be this because pinching the line right near the wastegate nipple will make the sound stop! There is nothing else to pinch so that tells me the sound is coming from the wastegate because if it was before the wastegate it would still be audible. Ahh shit balls lol.

Hey guys, Today while under my bonnet I noticed a pssssh sound. Sounded like air running through something.... or leaking. I started listening around and heard it from a piece of hose on my boost controller. I pinched the hose and the sound stopped. I applied soapy water all over the hose to find a leak and found none. I started pinching other random hoses and the sound was there, but if I pinched the hose coming off the TB which leads to my Y piece to my boost controller/waste gate line, the sound stops. The sound is audible across the hole line, not where I initially thought. The line which comes from the TB to trigger the BOV has been Y pieced to support my boost controller. If I pinch the hose from the Y piece leading to the BOV, nothing happens. If I pinch anywhere on the line going to the boost controller, the sound stops. If I pinch the line going out of the boost controller to the WG, it stops. If I pinch the light right up near the TB, the sound stops. Is this a leak or is it a normal sound? My Greddy Profec B reads -94 most of the times. Sometimes I get really bad hunt and it drops to -80 and revs follow. Any ideas guys? Should I just replace all the dry hoses? Is 3mm ID the best overall size to go? Cheers

Even though gps technology tells you it has x +/- tolerance. My mates car and gps are always about 4 to 8 k apart.

Or you can always just swap the speedo module out of your one into a new one because as you've stated, its your rev tacho which is out. Its fiddly work but you can also rewind it your self.

ONO guys, someone take one!

Some drop kicks on Honda and Pulsar forums are saying do clutch dumps to bed it in, while others are saying drive it calmly for about 500km. I prefer the latter. My concern is clutch riding. Should I just let go of the clutch as quick as possible or let the car take off as smooth as possible? I'm going to stay off any hills for the bedding process as I don't really feel like start stopping on a hill during the bedding process. Any info would be greatly appreciated guys.

I'm not from WA but saw this thread. Anyway I got my self a carbotic button clutch, basically an exedy 5 puk but with carbotic buttons. I was told its more the torque which affects the clutch. Carbotic buttons are good for about 550 - 600nm torque. KB Clutch Engineering. Also to all those who say its not streetable. They most certainly are. It depends all on the pressure plate. They can be ridden but not as much as normal as their is metal in the buttons. Some buttons are made of Kevlar some Carbotic. Carbotic is actually quite slippable compared to Kevlar buttons so it makes it very street friendly. Hopefully my box is on tomorrow and ill give my findings in another thread.

Gps is no way to verify. Check the thread under this called quick question. Similar issue. Get an consult cable o that and read direct rpm from the engine. Does it sound like it's revving at 4krpm or is that just the read out? The difference between 2600 and 4000rpm in sound is very obvious.

There are a heap of online calculators online which can tell you how much rpm you are doing at x speed. I'll see if I can calculate the rpm for 100km in 5th According to this calculator in an R33 GTST with the standard 4.1 rear diff ratio, you would be doing just above 2500rpm at 100km/h. Your SAFC and dash read from the same signal, the digital is always better as it doesn't just go out of whack like the mechanical gauge would. You shouldn't notice this just in 5th. All your gears and speeds are gonna be out. Get your cluster checked or replaced. Ive got a spare R33 GTST cluster with 118xxxkm on it. Works a treat and if you're in Sydney its yours for cheap.

Hey guys, Ive got two clutches here for sale. Both removed from an R33 GTST prematurely(one written off, the other for a 5 puk clutch upgrade). Both still are quite healthy. The exedy was holding 230rwkw just fine, has a modified Nissan pressure plate which has just a slight heavier pedal feel. The other has some other kind of pressure plate, felt pretty standard. Both clutches are as I said earlier, healthy looking. I have no idea what they are worth so lets just put up a price of $200 each with pressure plate. I can get photos of the clutches if you guys are interested! I also have a standard flywheel which came off with the NKK clutch so it would be best coupled with that. I still would suggest a fresh resurface. I got mine done for $20. PM me guys. Clutches located in Sydney.

Hey guys, In the process of changing my clutch. I just have a few questions and wondering if anyone can help out. First, should I clean the bellhousing cover from all the grime and crap which has built up? What is the best way to remove the spigot bushing out of the thing? Also want to know what parts of the gearbox(where the clutch sits) I need to lubricate? I got a small pouch of exedy grease and need to know where to put this shit. Do I put some on the thrust bearing? I know I put some on the input shaft. What about the pivot ball thing? How do I remove the thrust bearing from the carrier? Any tips for fitting in those top two bolts coz they took about 3 hours to get out. Also when I was tilting the engine back, it went back but didn't seem to go far enough to fit tools in to reach those two bolts(I lifted it by hand not a jack). Should I use a jack to push it further? Cheers guys. Also to note the old clutch was in there for a little while. When I pulled the flywheel out, I noticed nothing at all on the bolts. I'm not gonna locktite these things. I got engine oil and a torque wrench so Ill do as suggested in the Nissan manual. My dad said a dyna bolt will get the spigot bush out, thats how he done my brothers motor.

How do I tell from the outside if my diff is shimmed? Would both half shafts turn the same way if I turn them via the half shaft? An open diff will turn in opposite directions when a locked/shimmed diff botht turn the same way.... Correct?

How do I know? Jack the rear up and turn the wheels? I really don't want to put the wrong oil in the diff. I thought all R33 turbos had LSD and some had Active LSD...

Just want to avoid buying a pump which doesn't work lol. I don't want to get stranded so to speak and I heard some people buying pumps from SCA/Repco which just wont suck up oil. Maybe I can remove the shifter, fit a hose down through the top of the car into the filler hole, attach a funnel and fill like that.... I'm going to buy some fluid for my box and diff. Castrol VMX looks like good stuff and I'm gonna add the G70. Is the diff easy to fill and drain? If I put a hose through the top filler hole and blow air through it, would that help get all the old oil out? And does anyone know the torque settings for the necessary bolts? Ill go through this thread again incase its been covered. Edit: I'm confused here, the R33 GTST has an LSD. Is it best to go for a suited LSD oil? This is my pickup list for tomorrow: Castrol VMX M 4 litre Nulon G70 gearbox treatment Castrol LSX 90 2x1L. Am I right to go? Is there any oil I can use to make the diff tighter?

Ahh Sorry 89CAL, I just thought you probably skimmed through my post and thought I was driving a GTR because I initially though CV joints were something which fizzles in a front wheel drive car. Thanks for the advice though, is there any way to diagnose that further? I get the same kind of clicking sound in the rear when I go over potholes or other ditches/bumps in the road. Is it the same thing? As for the thud sound, just drove the car a fair way away. Its non existent when driving, and only occasionally happens in first gear from a stop. It does not do it if I back off the throttle then apply throttle again. Ive got a new spigot bush ready to go in with my clutch change.

Can I fill up an R33 GTST gearbox from the gear stick. I heard I can and its only not do-able in a GTR. Confirm/Deny anyone? None the less, I will be getting my gearbox fluid tomorrow(castrol otherwise penrite) and some diff fluid. Might get the Nulon additive.

Will post here about my clutch once its fitted. Got mine from KB clutch at Penrith though. Guy is awesome and knows his stuff, I'm sure a few others here have used him.

Both of my cars done it and both had fine syncros. I think it might be the clutch dragging as my old car did cease doing it when my master was changed. This cars master is failing I think. At times when slowly disengaging(esp in reverse), it feels like the car is grabbing the clutch and its barely depressed. If I clutch back it I get a shit load of shudder, both cars did this. Only does it in first gear and I don't even have to start disengaging. The gear goes in just fine it just thuds.

No CV joints in a rear wheel drive car. Do these things get worse or should I just forget about them. I'm changing the clutch soon anyhow. I think in 5th when you back off it thuds abit I cant remember though which car that was.

Close your eyes and pay for the Nismos. Brand new set of genuine Nismo 740cc could be had for about $750. I got my set, still unused but I feel comfortable with knowing what they are. JECS make alot of oem parts for Nissan. Made by JECS for Nissan Motors. Highflowing smaller flow injectors is dick shit. I tried to look for ways to save money when modding my car. Sure I saved but no where near what I liked it to be. I bought and sold alot of generic shit which I didn't feel comfortable with. Now Ive got a nice clutch, sexy turbo, reliable injectors, reputable ECU, quality exhaust, genuine intercooler, top of the range boost controller. It cost a little more but it will go alot further.

Hey all, Well Ive had two skylines both R33gtst and both series two, and both have done the same thing. Manual transmission and standard diff(not shimmed or anything). Anyway the first thing is when sitting at the lights in neutral clutch out and light turns green, when I push the stick into third and before I start to depress the clutch, I get a thud in the car which can be heard and sometimes even felt. If I take it out of gear while holding the clutch and put it in it won't repeat. But if I let the clutch go as its in neutral and then clutch in and into first, it will thud again. I'm changing my clutch(for other reasons) in the next week or so, is there anything I can do to stop this? Ive noticed it in a couple of other manual cars. Could it be a manual thing? Second thing is when starting to take off in first or in reverse(well this is only when I notice it) I get clicks from the rear. Sometimes one click, sometimes a couple of clicks. My old skyline done it quite alot. Its coming from mid to the back of the car. Any ideas? Cheers guys