SargeRX8

Just ordered my set! Cheers guys!

From that video, that sounded quite metallic. That didn't sound like the usual belt squeal...Disconnect the AC belt it could even be a pulley bearing.

Should I pull them all out? That's a job for tomorrow! If they all look like this guy would that be a good indication of happy motor operating at normal conditions?

My brother bought a fair bit of kicker gear from the US. Dirt cheap compared to here. The same monoblock 750wrms amp cost about $600 here he got it for $299 shipped.

Hey well, Well just for inspection purposes I pulled out the plug from cylinder one. Looks pretty good to me but just wondering if it could be a tad on the lean side as it looks a little too clean. Plugs are more than 6000km old. My main concern was detonation issues(my other ecu was reading crap load of ping at times, shit tune). Car has been on stock ecu for a fair while, only had the other one in there for a day. Any input would be great. These are copper plugs so I'll be changing these with the same ones on next oil change. Cheers guys

These don't fit a R33 RB25 det s2 motor?

Alright well I'm getting a set of yellow jackets. After re reading the thread alot of people here are using a 1.1 gap when running better coils. Should I do the same or should I jump to 0.8? I don't really feel like buying plugs, fitting them to see they work like dick then buying another set again. Ill be sticking with a 7 heat range as 6 I recall being stock and the cooler ones respond better with more power. Gonna buy my self a bulk lot of copper plugs and change them every second time I do an oil change or when I notice pops and misfires. Also what do people do when monitoring their cylinder conditions? Do you mean conducting a pressure test every time you change the spark plugs? Pretty sure you'll be ending the life of the cat converter pretty quickly. To sum up all my shit, What plugs should I get? 300rwkw 18psi rb25det with yellow jackets?

Join up some strong cable ties and wrap em around the whole box 2x each way. Shit wont go no where. There is nothing cable ties cant do.

Are you interested in swapping for a profec b spec 2?

Sounds good man. Metal or silicone leading to your box? Can you PM me some pix?

Is your bottom end stock rb25? Also how is your intake setup? 3" metal pipe with pod and AFM infront of turbo or do you have the AFM in the cooler piping?

As above, just clamp it onto the barb and put something around the braid to stop it fraying. My brothers car has an inline filter but he runs two external pumps, one internal. Then again it doesn't matter. The shit the filter filters is shit from when you fill up at the pump and if your servo is serving dirty fuel well....

Straight swap. I think the series 1 had metal wheel and series 2 ceramic which made series 2 turbo lighter, spool slightly faster with compensation for strength. Don't hold me on that but I am certain its a straight swap!

Hey all, After a set of coilpacks for the series 2. yellow jackets, super spark, what ever. Be reasonable guys. Located in Sydney can pickup and will pay post for interstate sales. Also need a 4" metal pipe with 90 degree bend in it. If anyone has, let me know. Probably can work with a 90degree too. PM me. Have cash ready for people in SydneY!

To confirm, are the coil packs sold? Is the boost controller and map sensor sold? Do they plug into any R33 power fc or is it for the djetro unit only?

Check out the hypergear turbo range(ss, gx etc). Bolt in to all stock locations and produce from 250 - 330rwkw with supporting mods and stock internals(on a safe tune).

Ive got one of those internal car alarms and f**k me when I forget that my immobilizer is on and I'm in the driver seat about to start the car and it goes off. Hands on my ears and piss out of there haha. My old R33 had a paging system good for 2km. Wouldn't do jack shit though in a shopping center, too many walls kills the range of the product.

There is nothing you can really do. All you can do is full comp cover. You wouldn't even need a GPS scrambler, just cut the power in the car. Its just like when people key cars. People say don't park in places prone to it. Thats not gonna fix it. Its just a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Ask to see the footage of the tow truck so you know what it looks like and honestly, spend a few hours of free time just sitting outside the car park watching cars going in and out. Ask the center if that has happened before. If its the first time, its definately planned. If its occasional that cars are stolen or there is some history of them being towed away, chances are these people patrol the car park waiting for a good catch. You've got nothing to lose really. Keep your eye on car sales, ebay, here, boost cruising, drive, trading post etc for cars matching or parts matching yours. Sorry to hear dude. So long you've got full comp cover, I guess its not too much of a loss. Also, I would not waste my time in a GPS tracker. For half the cost, a GPS scrambler can be purchased Even home made. The GPS signal is not very hard to distort or shut down.

Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone has a set of car ramps, or a torque wrench good for about 150nm, any air tools(air wrench or air rattle gun). Wouldn't mind picking up some second hand gear. Building my brothers car and its encouraged me to buy some proper tools but damn some of these things are expensive. If anyone has anything they would let me borrow for a week or two that would be much appreciated! I was going to get someone to change my gearbox but after working on our other car, Ive aligned, fitted, bolted up the whole clutch to the engine. Sure its a 13b but the concept is the same. PM me guys.

Fuel starvation? Sounds like no fuel in the engine then you back off and the pump pushes fuel in so it's fine. What mods?

What the hell do you drive to cost that much to change a clutch lol.

Hey all, Just after some loctite but there are a fair few variants. Basically need something suitable for flywheel, suspension parts and here n there. Are any of them good enough? I want it to be removable without heating. I heard the blue ones break under certain torque which is probably best but still there are many numbers. Any advice would be great guys. Also where do I buy the cold stuff in a can from, to shrink bolts. I just used some high strength thread locker on my brothers flywheel but there is nothing left in the tube and I also have no idea how strong high strength is lol so incase I need to pull it off, I don't want to sit there heating shit up. Cheers guys.

I found one bolt and washer loose tightened that. Also the lower pulley was loose. Tightened that and some sounds are gone! Also adjusted my cooler piping as it was touching the cam cover. Less noise up there too! Still found a shitload of oil on the AC pump and the surrounding area. Pretty sure its the PS fluid. Gotta check that.

It actually sounds like something like that, tomorrow Ill be under that car til I find the damn problem. Unfortunately the old hose in the ear trick didn't help in pinpointing the sound, that f**king fan blows my ear apart lol.