SargeRX8

How much of a flow restriction does a aluminum box around a pod impose.

New seals .

Parramatta sydney, check pm.

As per title. I dont want a 600+ kit, i dont care if its cheap chinese kit, I just need something not leaking. prefer something with relocator too!

To the top, anyone?

A little more on a relatively rich mix. Just gradually go up. Try 8, try 9, try 10. See where the car starts to die down. More boost on stock doesn't necessarily mean more power. Different story if you run 10psi and get it remapped.

What the f**k? Any car Ive ever driven would be shit house when its cold. Take care of your car. No matter how new age or old school your car is, it still needs to warm up. Just because you run castrol GTX and that old man says you don't have to warm it up, does not make it true. Everything has a peak operating temperature, whether it be mechanical, natural or organic. Another note to add is that the O2 sensor does not become active until a certain temperature threshold is reached. This is so the car can ignore the O2 readings while its warming up, and it just keeps adding fuel til its warmed up. A good idea is about 3 - 5 mins idle in drive way to get oil moving around then about 3 minutes of easy driving. After that your water temp should be around 50 - 60c and oil pressure should be a smidge under 4 at cruise speed and around 6 under load.

Isn't the car still in warm up mode? I wouldn't say sensors because, well, you said after its warm it works fine. f**ked sensors wont work, especially when warm, it will just shit everything. What kind of oil are you using? I tend to find when its really cold my car is ugly to drive, I just let it warm for about 5 minutes before I drive it.

Manifold gone! Stock injectors $50 HDI electronic boost controller $120!!!!!!!!!!

Bump guys. No longer need an intake pipe, still keen on coil packs, a dump pipe and now if anyone has a nice catch can I'd be keen. Otherwise cash cash cash.!

A while ago I took it off. I put it back as best I can but don't know if it's right. If I'm off a couple degree left or right what would the symptoms be? I Dont ping much max I've seen is 38. Is there something on the PFC controller I can check? Car is stock ATM. Cheers

I got my self a carbonetic 5 puck clutch specifically designed for 330rwkw 600nm torque for $380 including pressure plate with strong clamp but no so hard it's on/off.

A leak in the intake can cause black smoke. I had a leak once where I spliced for my boost controller. I would shit out smoke like no tomorrow. All was normal when I fixed that up. It could also be the reason you get the idle dip when clutching in after boost, I had that same symptom. The grinding noise could have been the clutch settling in. They say drive the car normal for about 100km then do a couple of clutch dumps. A freshly machined fly wheel will need to get the new clutch material on it. As for the whine sound, every single R33 Ive sat in(and that is a few), if you listen closely they have a whine to them when the foot is off the clutch. If it gets louder when you are driving, there is some bearing which needs to be changed. Its not the throw out bearing(obviously) I think its the input shaft bearing. Don't worry about that whine, it will not be the cause of your power loss. Get it on a dyno and they will check it out. I'd prefer to pay $100 for an hour of dyno work to sus out a problem than $600 to get the box pulled out again and checked. If you run a cheap short shifter, the noise will be amplified. If it wasn't for the amazingly short throw, I would have thrown my short shifter through someones window by now.

I plan to run 280/310rwkw with about 470/50b torque. keith said the clutch I'm getting is the last single plate option he could offer and said that this clutch and pressure plate combo will be perfect and very street drivable. Man seriously, a standard exedy cost almost just as much!

Spoke with Keith from KB and he gave me a run down on what I should get. Told him what I needed and he said he will build me a custom clutch for my car which is very streetable for $380! Wow. Like seriously wow. Should be ready in a week!

Woah that's an awesome price for a beefy clutch. And it's in sydney so not far at all! I've heard of these guys too. I wonder if they do installations. I can go there today and see what's what. I've got two noises one squeak from my pivot in the box and the other one in the cabin only when first engaging the pedal. Basically if I press the pedal to the floor then slowly up and down the sound only comes in the first cm or two of play. Thanks for bringing up this guys shop, I hated the fact all other places were intertate.

Hey all, I need a new clutch to support the mods I'm going to be getting. There are too many damn options. 1) Something from Jim Berry $??? 2) Something from Direct Clutch $??? 3) ORC single clutch + flywheel $1400 4) Exedy Extra Heavy Duty Clutch $660 The exedy is the cheapest coming it at $660 and should support my power needs. The ORC single clutch is suitable for race/track and should be sufficient, also has a suitable flywheel! Jim Berry and Direct Clutches look VERY reputable and awesome but I cant find a damn price anywhere. DC do clutch rebuilds so getting my old exedy cushioned heavy duty rebuilt by them is also an option. What should I do guys? Also I heard its not how much power the engine produces, its the amount of torque it makes which determines slip if the clutch will hold. Power spins it faster, torque pushes it harder. I'm expecting around 500 - 600nm torque in the end but realistically about 450 - 470nm. Also I have no idea of the condition of my current flywheel. Do I need to change it or can I stick with it? What about clutch pedal? Mine already creaks. I can get a Nismo one or get my other one from my other car but I have no idea how to pull it out. Is there a DIY anywhere about fitting/removing the clutch pedal? Also have a brand new clutch master incase this one goes bye bye lol. To sum up what I'm asking, which clutch should I get? What are you all running? How much should I be looking at if I go JB or DC? How much would I be looking at for installation? DIY able?(Ive pulled a box out before, just never put one in or aligned/fitted a clutch). Cheers guys!

Stay VERY lightly on the accelerator when shifting and it will make a big difference. When my car is cold, my shifting is shit and I occasionally almost stall. Once I'm warm, its smooth sailing. What is f**king annoying is bumpy roads and your foot goes TAP TAP TAP on the damn accelerator!

gw oil lol we sell that at Woolworths. I thought its some cheap shit stuff. Going Motul 300v for my next oil change. Been on Royal Purple for too long, want something new!

Hey all, Selling a Tial wastegate which I bought for my setup but ended up with a low mount internally gated turbo. This is a genuine, vgc tial 38mm wastegate with 10mm spring. Suits the 35/38mm flanges. Bought it from here not too long ago. Selling it for what I got it for $150 firm, not neg. I will also consider trades for the following with necessary cash adjustments. Oil cooler/relocation kit for R33 GTST R33 GTST stainless steel dump pipe to suit the Nissan flange Metal 3" intake pipe or a 45 degree metal 3 inch pipe. Will consider highly a 3.5" Splitfire or JJR coilpacks or something suitable for 300rwkw. Cheers guys.

if your windows are down and you need to get the up give direct 12v power to the motor

Hey guys, I am currently running a Power FC with a tune for a stock R33 GTST. I want to shove my stock ECU back in because the tune was not done on my car but on a similarly modded R33. None the less, the tune may not be safe for my car. Anyway. Ive got a Z32 AFM in my car at the moment, will the stock ECU be able to work with it or should I just wire up my old AFM? I am going to also be fitting new 740cc Nismo injectors. Will the car still be driveable on the new injectors, driveable not hammered that is. I feel like booting my car around abit coz I havent in a long time. I will be fitting in the turbo and injectors as soon as my oil arrives then head down to the tuners for a tune. I can always chuck the injectors in at the tuner or chuck my power fc back in and mod the injectors. To sum up what I'm asking in one question: Will the car be DRIVEABLE with the stock ECU and the above parts? Mainly will it be driveable as a daily with the Z32 or should I just put in the stocker to be safe?

There is a place down near botany who do prestige cars. The guy who owns the joint is a member here and owns an R33 him self. They work on ferraris, lambos, bmw, mercs and cars alike. There work is nothing short of amazing. I cant remember his name but check the for sale section and search for a carbon fiber bonnet for an R33 and me posting in the thread. i can understand why you want to renew before you claim coz now your costs are going to go up noticeable due to accident history and being at fault. BL man, hope it all goes well. Your car looks sonic silver, if you need panels, ive got driver quart, bonnet and passenger quart is pretty good condition.

Hey all, This is the quote from some other thread but thought I'll start a more specific thread. As above, what do you guys think? Could it be an exhaust leak somewhere rather than anything else? Also back to the topic of the thread, where are the damn knock sensors on the motor? Anyone able to label them on a diagram? Cheers.

Bump