SargeRX8

SOLD

I had something before in my old car but sold it off, thought there might be something lingering around.

Wow how pointless.

I'm noticing something in my car I wasn't before. I had a PFC with base tune and that thing used to register about 40 - 50 knock sometimes up to 100 knock. I got one now tuned for a stock R33 GTST with 10psi. I see about 4 on average on the knock sensor, very rarely shoots up to 10 - 30. Now, originally I had the standard dump on the car and it was leaking coz of a crack and you could hear the look coming onto boost. I changed it out for a screamer split dump while my other one got fixed. Now I fit the other one back on and I get a weird tick tick tick sound which only seems to happen between 5000 - 6000rpm. It picked up my attention straight away. Ive never heard the sound before but it only happened when I got the old dump put back on after it was fixed. People say pinging sounds like the word, like a ping on metal. This sound I hear is more like a "chick" kind of sound, like a match getting striked on a match box. Knock sensor on my PFC still wont show anything above 15. And to OP, the Power FC will detect knock as its heard from your knock sensor. Your car is designed to detect knock but it does not display anything to you. The PFC just reads what the knock sensor says and displays it for you. You need an independant knock sensor. But that said, if you're still picking up some form of knock, your sensor probably is working. Like others have said, if its a ping so loud you can hear it, there is no reason your knock sensor wont.

Brand new genuine GT3071 and 76r's could be had for a couple hundred more from the US. Consider a highflow? Hypergear or GCG? Also wrong section to be asking lol. A garret although fits low mount, will not be a bolt on. You're gonna need a fair few parts to make it fit. I'm happy with my hypergear. Bolts straight into the car with only need for intake pipe and silicone bend.

I guess high mount makes it a little more challenging if you're running the cooler piping in the standard location, unlike the image you posted. You also need to consider the wiring because the turbo will be way too close to the wires and the heat wont be good. A low mount setup, the wires will reach as I did do a trial fitment in my old car. I needed 2 3" to 2.5" reducers to sit the AFM between my piping. Really stupid move to upgrade the size of the whole pipe system without upgrading the throttle body to a larger unit. I'm going with AFM infront of turbo with metal intake pipe! I would have loved a MAP setup but I am not going to hunt down another ECU.

That is actually quite common. Ive read about it in the past. People with cracked AFM housings normally extract the housing components and fit them into metal pipes for strength and looks. I guess it wouldn't give any performance gain but if your housing is cracked/damaged it would be a great option rather than buying a new AFM. Also a small hole in a intercooler pipe is easier to patch up rather than a piece cut out. I was considering this approach if I do decide to run my AFM in the cooler pipe, just not confident on how resilient the Z32 parts are to vibration and knock from the tools. Wouldn't be hard to seal it imo. My brother has this black stuff in a tube which sticks literally everything automotive.

Post up guys. Feel free to chuck in why you do what. This is not a thread about should I, shouldn't I. Its just a thread for people to see what the majority are doing and probably their opinion as to why they are doing what they are!

Bump

Bump guys I really need this gone, seriously $140 for the manifold!! Someone take this stuff!

Bump, I really need one.

There are heaps of threads on this. There are also too many opinions. Some swear by it, others will never do it. Moving the AFM closer you may get a more accurate reading of air flow but I am not sure what will happen if you are running an atmo BOV or no BOV as the air will either escape the intake system or get blown back past the AFM resulting in more fuel dump. Its not hard to move it but you will have to sacrifice some pipe. I can understand your reasons though. Is your turbo a 4" mouth or a 3" to 4"? Also you do run a risk of getting oil residue on your AFM internals. Are you running a catch can? If not, the oil in the lines could f**k up your AFM. This thread is going to get locked but may as well put what I can in here. If you decide to do it, let me know how it goes. I might have to do the same with my turbo if I decide to go 4" inlet. But I really would prefer sticking to 3" coz a 4" pipe is f**king fat.

Hey all, Well Ive got everything I need to start installing my turbo into my car. Currently I run a Power FC with a tune for standard parts and 10psi. I need to fit on a new turbo and my new nismo 740cc injectors(red top). I read somewhere that the injectors need to be setup on the handcontroller. Does anyone know the settings for the hand controller? Like the % and the ms lag thing? I'm going to fit all the shit to the car my self and have it driven to Advan performance. Obviously I will be driving at turtle speed I just need to get everything back to a driving state. If I put the stock ECU in, will it make the correction to the injectors or will it shit it self? Ive already got to pay money for a tune and probably a new clutch so not too keen to pay the same shop to do installation bits coz thats something I can do my self. What are the lag times for the Nismo 740cc injectors? These are side feed for an RB25DET. Old injectors are 370cc new are 740cc so I get a 0.5 value thing which I don't know where to use because on Paul33's guide it says enter that value... Where? Theres only a percentage option and a Msec option for delay. Cheers guys.

Hey all, Need a metal intake pipe to suit an Rb25DET with a low mount turbo. Preferable something with the BOV and oil return and breather lines, they aren't necessary but its prefered. Would be best if it fits in the low mount position as getting something modified to fit would cost pretty much the same price as something fabricated from scratch. PM me. Ready with $$

Bump

Bump.

I just tried it again. I think I'm trying too hard to compare a very stock car to a moderately modified car. 6500 rpm, power fc showed 55km/h. It just feels pretty sluggish after about 5000rpm.

I really don't know. Coming up the road earlier today, I was just sitting there watching my KM sit at about 58 and the revs increase. I already understand the concept of how things work in relation to speed of engine to the wheels vs power is how quickly you get through the gear. Ill take it out for a quick boot and check what shits what. Ill do it safely though, rather that watch the cluster Ill just use my hand controller to record the max data logged by the end of the gear, the clear it then try it to 6krpm, then clear it, 5krpm. ill get an indication of where this shits at.

Its for the standard Nissan turbo with Internal wastegate. It sounds alright, but its not compatible with my new turbo so I need it gone. Pic attached.

Could it be that in the top end of the gear say from 5400rpm to 6500rpm the speed gain is very small? Ive smelt my clutch before and believe me this isn't one of those stink free clutch. Its also a relatively fresh clutch.

Bump

Bump guys need it gone. Offers of reasonable nature won't be refused.

Yeah the only thing I could think about is clutch slipping but I can't smell it. The car is going on dyno soon so til then no more planting it. What else could it be?

Ive bought the SS turbo off Stao as he plans to start with the next design and what not. I will be reporting all my experiences, dyno graphs and other data to him and I shall start a build thread about it!

Hey all, Well this has been baffling me a little and I don't know if its normal or not. Anyway, Ive got a relatively stock R33(exhaust, fmic, 10psi, ecu). Ive noticed that first gear up to about 4500 - 5400 is best. Anything above 5400 rpm does not seem to do anything. Is this right. I hit about 59 - 61km in first gear by 5300rpm then the rest til red line is just noise with no speed gain, torque or power. Is this right? I never noticed this with my old R33 as by the time I got to 4000 id hit 7krpm in no time and be out of the gear. I find its best just to get out of the gear at about 5krpm. This is the data I got about gear ratios and speeds per gear. RPM 1st Gear 2nd Gear 3rd Gear 4th Gear 5th Gear 6th Gear 500357912-100059131823-1500814202635-20001118273547-25001423344458-30001627405370-35001932476182-40002236547093-450025416179105-500027456788116-550030507496128-6000335581105140-6500355987114151-7000386494123163-75004168101131175-80004473108140186-85004677114149198-90004982121158210-95005286128166221-100005491134175233- My tyres are 245/45/R17. According this this chart I should hit the speed I recall by redline. My next question is raising the rev limiter. Is this as simple as using my PFC hand controller and raising the limit to say 7500? Would this give allow me to hit the above speed of 65km/h?