SargeRX8

Looks like the standard nissan black one i would have breathed a sigh of relief seeing a blue belt. Id know its at least been changed..

So those coil packs wont fit an RB25? Damn, they sure look the same I would have taken those cams and coil packs almost instantly.

Hey all, Well Ive got most of my parts for my work ready and it should see anything from 280 - 310rwkw on regular fuel pump. The next thing to consider is my brakes but wow the price figures on a set of big brakes is amazing. I'm going to be cheap here and ask for help and opinions. First off. What is the biggest, safest size I can get for 17" wheels? Do aftermarket brakes bulge out more than the Nissan brakes on the R33 GTST? They look alot slimmer in pictures. Secondly, and a big secondly. It looks like alot of money can be saved if I ditch the rear brakes. I can understand this would have a huge impact on a AWD car but all rear wheel cars, including skylines, have little tiny brakes at the back and bigger up front. If I upgrade just the front brakes, would I still get even braking? I don't want my ass to shoot left and right. Secondly, has anyone heard of the following brands D2 or KSport? D2 have an 8 piston front caliper, rotor, lines, pads, bolts and adapter set for an R33 for $1650 shipped. KSport have a 6 piston front set for $1500~ I don't really like the idea of running 10 - 15 year old GTR brakes when something brand new can be had for roughly the same price(seriously those old GTR brakes are too overpriced). Any input would be great. If anyone can recommend anything else, I ask for your suggestion! Cheers.

Are those rotors a direct fit front and rear? What's the overhaul hit? is that the caliper rebuild kit with seals and all the other stuff?

I've got a split dump for an r33 with a screamer pipe. These aren't cheap but I don't need it. $200 Ono or trade for a 3" bellmouth dump. Located in parramatta

Bump guys I really need this stuff gone. Anything reasonable and it's yours! I really need a dump pipe!

Hey all, Ive been getting some noise from my head. It kind of sounds like lifters but I very much doubt it is. It sounds more like a symptom someone else was having there the timing belt, at lower rpm, makes noise under the belt cover. It could also be the tensioners. Anyway. Is it advisable for someone to change their own timing belt? Ive got manuals, guides etc. Id say ive got medium mechanical skills but I am not too sure about this job as it looks pretty big. Should I go with a genuine Nissan belt? I am modding the car to produce about 280rwkw. I just don't want to risk the belt snapping or anything. Ive taken off the cover and the belt still feels firm, there are no tears or abrasions either. It looks healthy. Its just this noise which disappears at about 1300 rpm which is annoying. Its like a chomping kind of sound. chomp chomp chomp chomp and it speeds up a tad when I rev it abit then completely disappears. If I want to get a shop to change the belt what cost on labour should I be looking at? Can any mechanic change a belt or is there some fancy bullshit about a skyline? Its just a regular motor, like any other belt so I'm sure any reputable mechanic can do it.

Hey all, Got the following for sale 1) High mount JJR manifold for RB25DET, has wastegate port for 35/38mm gates. Brand new $200 ono. Never fitted it on my car, bought it about a year ago. 2) Stock Rb25det injectors, 6 of them purple tops. Suit highflow maybe or someone returning to stock $60 ono 3) A HDI EBC. Fits into the coin pocket above the gear stick. $200? ono But I have a proposal to all Sydney people and people willing to post. I need a 3" bellmouth dump pipe to suit an R33 GTST with the Nissan turbo flange and standard cat. Must be a direct fit for a standard car. No cracks. Preferably something made of stainless steel. I don't want your stock pipe. PM me guys. If photos are needed, just ask. The JJR manifold can be found on their website(its the only JJR manifold for Rb25 on their site). Located near Parramatta Sydney. I need the dump pipe before next week friday. I will trade my current dump pipe which is a split dump with atmo screamer pipe for a 3" bellmouth with cash either was as necessary.

Does it sound like a squeal or a grinding sound? You make it sound quite harsh and if it actually does sound like a drop saw cutting metal, your bearings or shaft could be really f**ked. Its weird though that after its warmed up it subsides. Is it a faint sound or very loud? If you really do think its the turbo I suggest you check over it. Check the shaft play, back and forward, side to side. If it has too much play, the wheels could be hitting the housing and that could be giving you the metal on metal sound. If thats happening, I suggest you don't drive the car or you'll shatter the turbo or get pieces of metal in the intake which will probably destroy your piston rings. There's no quick check to see whats what. If it is the seals its gonna be a pain in the arse narrowing it down. I only found out it was my BOV because I used my old BOV replacing a atmo BOV. The symptom came as soon as I fitted my stock BOV. I bought another standard BOV and the problem was still there. I used a paper kind of gasket rather than the metal one and the problem is gone. Single layer pieces of metal as a gasket is a shit idea.

Pretty sure its not the turbo but a leak somewhere. Check your BOV gasket, exhaust and all the other seals. When metal heats, it expands which *could* seal the problem. Also pay attention to whats really happening. Is it on 2psi of boost or is it at a certain RPM with certain throttle. I'm guessing it happens between 1800 - 2400rpm.

I'm keen on the return flow and front bar, reo and foggies. Probably keen on that turbo just waiting to hear back from hypergear. PM'd you for future reference.

I'm in Sydney and Ive got a HKS Silent HiPower exhaust. 3.5" all the way. Very deep sound. Still on car. What does this sound like?

Hey all, Sold my t2 3071 now I need a T3 71 or 76. I want something which hasn't had too much of a hard rough life. Something I don't have to fix. Something that will fit. Something not too expensive, please. If anyone has something, please PM me. Internally gated preferred but doesn't really matter. Cheers.

Yeah he was actually running 26psi to create the same amount of power. Its not as efficient as the Garrett. I can see now what people mean. I was also looking at hypergear and you can't deny their new stuff is pretty impressive. I found a few gt3071 and 76's online but they don't use Garrett housings. They use ATP housings, but the Garrett CHRA. I guess Ill wait to see one pop up in for sale as $1800 is abit too much for me. I was gonna buy ruffles gt3071 setup but at the time I didn't have the funds. Money came a week too late

These are a direct comparison of a Kando turbo from Simon's thread and a GT3076R There is a noticable difference in coming onto power and the top end. Its hard to say really. The kando gives you about 44 more horses while the Garrett comes on a little quicker and more linear.

I can understand that. Ive seen some interesting graphs from Holset and Kinugawa. They do use the Journal bearing but Ive read its just as reliable. Check that guys thread on the Kando turbo and it creates a nice line of power and comes on a little harder than an equiv Garrett. Precision Turbo are making some awesome turbos which are almost $800 cheaper than the Garrett equiv. I heard they also use Garrett internals, although I'm not sure on the source of that. I do know the Kando/Kinugawa turbo's use Garrett/Mitsu wheels coupled with Mitsu internals. I am still leaning to the Garrett as it does have the greatest piece of history behind it but if I can save money and get someone similar in performance, isn't that an option too?

Why does everyone buy Garrett when there are cheaper, just as reliable and well performing options like holset, kkk, kkr, kinugawa(Mitsubishi) I sold my Garrett turbo and now looking for a turbo for my 33. I am seriously considering a h1e or a kinugawa

Yeah.

What are those things? If I rough em up do I need to bed them again?

MINE!

Up front I'm running 235's. I'm not sure on the offset but up front I do need a spacer. Plenty of clearance in the back. The front wheels scrub my castor rods and the plastic shit in the wheel arch but they don't come near my quaters.

*SOLD* Pending payment.

How hard from 100 - 40? People say about 2/3 brake pedal. I'm gonna first see why the hell they are moving in the caliper. When I reverse and tap the brake I can hear them clunk clunk clunk. Only in reverse and I am sure its brake related as my old ones weren't doing that. Ill also get the brake pads shaved 1mm to remove any glazing which occured.

Or a no frills one with a nice spring for 100 will do the job. People pay premium price for nothing.

Ive got a 60mm.