SargeRX8

What? My car is running 255/40/17 on the back I never had any issues(I'm not sittng too low though). Now I'm running stretched 245/45/17 and they fit so nicely.

Wow that looks pretty mint man. How much did that cost you to get that welded? Does it matter that its 90degrees from the flow of exhaust? People say you need to have it like angled in facing the engine where the exhaust flow is coming from. Also is that a 44mm vband? Who did you get to do the heat coating?

Where you located? Ive seen a Supra with your alias as the number plate in Sydney. If you're in Sydney I'm keen on this.

Any pics of your WG port? Edit: Look what I found This looks pretty mint. Very hidden too. Ive got an idea for a screamer pipe/plumb back system I want to share too. Basically this is my idea. Screamer pipes are loud as shit so you probably don't really want to drive on the street with it on. Ive been thinking of a method to make one which you can connect/disconnect in a matter of minutes. I think Ive got it. I found a place which sells a piece of flex pipe about 14" long designed to connect to 35 to 38mm wastegates(I'm sure they can be customized to fit larget). Anywho this pipe connects straight to the WG(a special flange is provided to adapt to any 35/38mm wg) You are also give a special flange with the bolt thread to weld down low to your dump pipe to return the fumes from the WG. My method is simple. Get a special cap made of stainless steel which can fit over the flange on the dump. When you want to scream externally, unscrew the flex pipe from the dump, put the cap over the flange and you've got a screamer. To sweeten the deal, have your welder or exhaust shop weld a dedicated pipe along side your dump pipe and point it to the ground. Get another one of these flanges and weld that to the end of this dedicated screamer pipe then simply attach the flex pipe to the screamer pipe flange.

Hey all, Ive been searching quite heavily for a while now. I'm thinking about my build and trying to see what the road of external wg looks like as its probably the simplest way I'm gonna get my turbo up and running. Anyway, Ive been looking for a manifold. Everything I find is top mount, top mount, top mount! Does there exist a low mount manifold with an external wastegate port? I don't really want to spend a fortune either. I see some manifold for $100 some for $500 some for $900+ Thats abit too much to pay for pipes.... Ive got a high mount manifold here which I do not want to use. Ive also got a spare standard manifold which Ive been thinking about modifying with a port for a WG but I heard if not done properly it will not hold boost well. Help me guys. RB25DET turbo is most likely a gt3071.

Should I get my rotors machined and the brakes discs sanded then start bedding again? How long do I have to bed for? People say 100km, but is that 100km of braking or 100km of driving involving braking?

Hey all, I just bought a set of brake QFM HPX brake pads for my R33. Fitted them in etc. I havent done any hard braking at all and bedding them as per all other brakes(light braking, nothing too hard). The brakes are squealing like shit. I took the pads off and they seriously look glazed. My old brake pads did the same thing. I have no idea why this is happening. Could it be my rotors? Ive got slotted DBA rotors. My rotors with my old brake pads were like a mirror silver finish. Now they look like they got a rusty kind of colour. Also when I'm reversing or rolling back, if I just tap tap tap the brakes I can hear the pads clunking. I examined them and there is a fair bit of play in them... What the f**k? Help guys. If anyone is in Sydney I can show you my car or if anyone can suggest a place. Are R33 GTR brakes bolt on to R33 GTST's?

PM Sent. PM's Replied. Bump too.

Driver door up for sale here, its only missing the window control thing and the pocket. Most of the parts should be here. $100 with mirror(mirror is disassembled, I tried to fix the motor but couldn't be bothered) Its sonic silver. still in nice condition. Pickup in Sydney. Reasonable offers will NOT be refused.

BUMP

Warranty will almost never work in your favour on a fitted turbo. I bought a GT3082R from a guy for $800 which had only had 200kms on it. I had to adjust the rear housing so instead I took it off and discovered the wheel was damaged. I told him and he said he had no idea it was damaged and that it only had minimal use. I gave him the turbo back and he gave me a brand new one. I know I wouldn't feel comfortable sleeping at night knowing I took someones hard earned thousands. I know, either way someone is going to be out of pocket but if you're honest enough you would at least give SOME credit. I made an offer to Russman and he said if you give him a partial refund he will be happy to settle the case.

I'm actually making an offer here...

I assumed it would cost about 600. It cost 690 to do a 3082. None the less thats 800 + 600 = 1400 for a GT3076R which has to be repaired... A second hand, non screwed up 3076 could be had for about 1000 - 1200... A reasonable offer would be 400 - 500 as its going to be 1k spent on the turbo. Any more than that and honestly should consider brand new(about 1400 to your door from the US). I'm not trying to shut you down, I'm actually interested in the turbo and will pay about $400 - 500 for the turbo if you let it go.

Pics added. Turbo lines are not included. Very negotiable on this turbo guys!

Cmon guys. Its literally brand new. Perfect for Silvias, ca's sr's. Even those with RB's who want to run an adapter and get a very punchy turbo. I will be very considerate to turbo trade ins. I will grab pictures tonight. If anyone wants to swap for a GT3071, GT3076, GT3082 or a GT3540(maybe this one), PLEASE let me know. This is brand spanking new.

$800 is too much for a damaged 3076. Id be looking more in the $400 region. You can't say it wont affect performance. Under boost, heat, and stress the structure of all the fins has been damaged and its inevitable that it is going to, and will fail. I bought a turbo which had very similar damage and after inspection by precision turbo the guy would never suggest running a turbo with damaged fins. Repairs will be in the excess of $600 for wheel, fitment and balance. I don't mean to bring down your sale but you are treading a fine line when you say its still near new. None the less, if its still up for sale, Ill offer $400.

Its not the wire part bro its the metal thing which puts tension on the two pins, the flappy piece of metal. I went to a skyline wrecker and he wont sell it to me because he reckons he wont be able to sell the caliper without it lol. Its the n parts you can see above NIssan. Where can I get them? Are they essential to have? Would Nissan have them? Ive been driving my car since I bought it, without it lol.

f**k finally done with just slightly overflowing the fluid bottle. I used a multi grip, the one with the screw end to adjust bite, and a piece of cardboard wedged between the pad and the rotor to ensure it sits flat as possible and slowly squeeze then adjust the tool to be tighter then squeeze until I fit the other one in. I cleaned off as much of the gunk as I could and I think that helped. Cheers guys, now I just need to find the damn retaining clip for the push pins.

They wont squeeze they really do feel stuck but when someone presses the brakes I can feel them moving in and out.. This is annoying. The back was a piece of piss.

I will buy some brake cleaner tomorrow. I don't want to interfere with the hydraulic system as I just recently had my fluid topped and bleed properly. Can I do one piston at a time or should I do both at once? One at a time I can use a clamp to squeeze each one in. I can squeeze the 2nd brake pad in its just the one that sits on the outer side I cant push in.

Hey all, Trying to install a set of QFM pads I bought from a guy here. The back ones were easy. Removed the old, grabbed the old brake pad in the caliper to compress the piston. Slide out and insert new one. The front is being a bitch. I can't compress it. No matter how hard I squeeze it(using those adjustable plier things). When the pads are in and on the car and someone presses the brake, I can feel them moving, I just cant push them back. Does anyone have any advice? Do these need to be turned or forced? R33 GTST Series 2.

Its been proven in studies that with mature drivers(I'm not talking about P platers or people 1 year off their P's) are safer drivers when driving faster. I see people who drive like grannys who would invoke much more of a risk than a speeding driver. There is not one person here who will deny the fun and thrill to be had when just giving the car some. I'm not talking about raging through traffic at 130km+ Maybe a push off the lights, or if you're like me and drive 15km under the limit, its fun just to drop it to 2nd and get up to speed. No matter how fast, slow, I have ever gone I still maintain my car in a straight line. Its other drivers who are negligent of other drivers doings. I had a car run infront of me yesterday because he didn't feel like stopping on a round about. I had a bitch say I was speeding down the road and took a turn infront of her as she hit my car. If I was speeding I would have DEFINITELY made it safely out of the situation and my car would have been in tact. Very confused post, I just woke up and haven't eaten.

Man honestly, you can find everything out your self. Without special paint analyzing equipment there are still telltale signs to look for in resprays, panel repairs etc. An RTA check will tell you if the car has had any logged repairs and other details. The rest is knowing what to look for and where to look for it. Call up E & M Motors and ask them for the guy they use for their inspections. Its an independent company. They know imports and exotics inside out.

Hey all, I just noticed on my car that the metal thing which is held down by those two pins which also hold the brake pad in place are missing. This part is pretty important as my brake pads have about 1mm play in them. Where can I get a new one made up? I didn't notice it until today after my little inspection. I have no idea where the damn thing went either. Also on another note, my brake rotors are like mirrors..... Is this normal? Car is a Skyline R33 GTST Series 2

Don't need a plug. Will pay $130 for a z32 and $90 for a q45. Ive seen them sell plenty of times for these prices.