SargeRX8

I need a Z32 AFM OR a Q45 AFM. PM me, I need this ASAP!!!!!! Sydney prefered will pickup. Don't PM me if you got a damaged, or untested ECU. Don't PM me if you got a brand new Z32 or Q45 for $200+

Maybe you're noticing something that's always been there. What injectors are you running? Most, if not all injectors give a tick tick tick sound.

I wonder what his car would feel like, even with the right ecu and injectors. By the time you're on boost you'll be out of gears. That auto box isn't going to like the load the engine is gonna put on it.

It's the difference between breathing through a star and breathing through your nose. Try t. Through a straw you will flow a small amount of air and suffocate your self and will create a high amount of pressure trying to suck air in. But if you breathe through your mouth or a really big straw you can suck in just as hard bu get alot more air in. Back to op. Ecu is the biggie. It's the backbone of the car. It's the brain. It's the control. I plan to mod my car and have my ecu on the way. Luckily it's tuned for a stock turbo and what not but boosted up to 10psi. But again I won't be smashing it often until I get it checked out with my car.

Lol that might be overkill man. Seriously all we are cutting out is what, a 3inch diameter hole? If we put rods or other crap and weld it to the chassis there is a chance that again, it will not crumple as designed by Nissan. Seriously they should let off this shit. If you're gonna have a head on collision, it will make a bees dick difference to the outcome. If you have a big one, you're gonna have a big one no matter how small or big or non existant your intercooler and intercooler hole is. If you cut something out or reinforce something it could hinder the crumple point but read on..... Excuses for more money. They should spend time an effort getting drivers to take driving skill classes to improve driving skills rather than nit pick this shit. People who disagree can kiss my ass, show me any situation where a intercooler install has made an impact on a collision. Sure if you get a CF bonnet, you will be making it alot more dangerous for other drivers but there are things which really don't matter and are kind of a joke. That 3 inch hole is NOT going to mean the difference between life and death. So long you don't damage or hinder the performance of the air bag sensors in cars equipped with them, there should be NO RULE about intercoolers. Increasing tyre width to gain better traction and grip on the road is a defect. Installing 4 way seatbelt to help secure the driver and passenger to the seat more effectively in an accident is a defect. A big exhaust is a defect, yet I just had a f**king Harley drive past my house deafen the shit out of me thanks to the rules, or lack thereof, on the sound levels of motorbikes. If something hinders safety directly, harms the environment, like actual f**king harm not by sound, then sure stick us with a fine. But when its just the faggots out there who cry from the sound of a sports car with a large exhaust but for some retarded reason adore the sound from a V8 with straight pipes, you can suck my dick. Sorry for the rant but it just pisses me off the way shit here works. I like japans laws, 98db up front 94 at back I think it was. Thats a nice sound level without deafening the shit out of everyone.

I was told by a cop that an engineer certificate is not worth the paper its printed on. He said that he can defect a Toyota Yaris that just popped out of the factory. Its kind of BS but most cops probably aren't as uptight as this guy. Then again he could be bluffing and just showing strength. Honestly, as long as its not hindering the main car structure and reinforcement it should be alright. Its not really gonna affect the car in an impact. The FMIC is aluminium so will probably get crushed anyway lol.

Damnit that means I need another piece now to connect the hose to the turbo. Could I use the restrictor or will it be too restricted? Where can I buy a piece to fit in place of the restrictor?

Hey all, Well I bought a turbo setup kit which includes water feed/return lines and an oil feed line(I need to make up the oil return which is fine). This is a link to the kit. http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWNX:IT If you notice, the kit includes a oil feed restrictor but alot of people are saying that the Garrett turbos already have a build in restrictor... Anyone able to shed some light on this? Does this restrictor bolt straight to the oil feed port on the turbo? Do all the elbow joints bolt to the block? I'm trying to understand everything I need to do before I do it. I don't want those responses "take it to a mechanic, you don't know what you're doing". I do know what I'm doing but as its my first time I need advice. Id rather do this my self and save the money for a tune rather than pay someone to connect some hoses and bolts for me. Also you will notice that one of the water lines has a barb on the end rather than a banjo bolt. Is this correct? I remember stripping my old motor but can't remember how it was setup. If anyone can post a picture of an Rb25 block maybe labelled showing the oil feed, water feed, oil return and water return points on the block? I'm aware that the oil return goes towards the bottom of the block(I think) but have no idea where the rest go. Back with the kit. You can see the two larger elbow joints. Ive gathered these will fit onto the block for the water lines. Then there is a smaller one... I have no idea where this goes. If it goes on the block, there are no other connections on the kit which fit into it. So far this is how Ive got it to work. WATER FEED LINE: BLOCK| BANJO BOLT BLOCK SIDE(OFF ELBOW??)| LINE TO TURBO | BANJO BOLT TURBO SIDE| WATER RETURN LINE: TURBO| BANJO BOLT TURBO SIDE| LINE TO BLOCK| BARB INTO HOSE TO BLOCK????(ELBOW???) OIL FEED LINE: BLOCK| BANJO BOLT| LINE TO TURBO | RESTRICTOR ON TURBO FEED PORT| HOSE TO RESTRICTOR OIL RETURN: Well I don't know yet as I'm trying to either find a kit or get a line made up. Any help would be great, sorry if this causes confusion... Cheers. This is how it looks with everything on the turbo side. The water lines I think are fine but I'm not sure about the oil restrictor and oil feed line... Thats the only way I can get it to fit... The parts I have left are two large elbows, one large banjo, one small banjo and 1 smaller elbow.

I have no idea how to find a place like that. I don't need the edges beveled but I do need the corners rounded. If anyone has any suggestions of places near Parramatta in Sydney, let me know while I google this shit.

Basically you pop the removeable pocket out and it sits infront so you will see the edges and the screws holding it. So I plan to use some nice heavy duty looking screws nicely seated in. I just need the plate cut to perfection...

Hey all, I know this is something I can probably do my self but I'm not very accurate at cutting and I cant find the metal anywhere. Basically Ive got an R33 series 2. I want to take out the little coin pocket thing under the dins and put an aluminium or stainless steel plate in there and mount a few controls and switches to. If someone can make something up for me, let me know. I don't have too much to spend. I was gonna do it my self but it cost $40 for a 600x300 sheet of checkered steel. I would do it my self but i want this to be a perfect straight flush fit and thats my limiting factor.

Could you get away with low mounting one of these turbos? They seem quite a performer for such an awesome price. Hopefully my 3082 can satisfy me.

Yeah, thats my concern for getting new ones.. Ive got a front facing and really, this something I never want to do again lol. And I really don't want to risk losing petrol in the engine bay.

I don't understand why pieces of round f**king rubber cost so much.

Its not hard for auto electricians to run a diagnosis on the AC compressor. Not expensive either. If its engaging then quickly disengaging, its either electrical issue somewhere(relay, fuse, wiring etc) or the compressor has seized.

Hey all, Well I got my injectors seated into my rail and I reused my old O rings. I did not fit them into the car yet though. After reading, alot of people are saying not to reuse the O rings. Problem is I cant find them and apparently Nissan charge half a penis for them. To confirm, are these the parts I need? "O-RING HOU LWR" - 16618 - 53J00 "O-RING HOU UPR" - 16618 - 10V05 Ive still got the rubber seats and the spacer shit, I just need to small and big O rings. I found a few shops on eBay selling sets for silvias(in 4's) for a pretty decent price(I recall 10.60 for the item + about 10 on post). Is that my best option? These are the links, if anyone can confirm these are the parts I need ill hassle the seller to make me a kit of 6. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200389911810&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230221468057&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123 Also found some EFI shop in Melbourne which I contacted but not too sure if they got the parts I need. If anyone has dealt with them or what ever, please let me know. http://efihardware.com Cheers!

If you have a consult cable or pfc you can use the hand controller or consult ecu talk to monitor RPM as it occurs. It would help you see if its the display end or the signal end.

Use a dremel to do the cut on the fan then what I do after that is get some rough as sand paper and wrap it around the cooler piping and hand turn the fan around and around, back and forward sanding it against the paper. After there is less friction I start the car and let it spin like that. Its kind of dangerous if you slip but just give it a gentle to firm hold and you'll be right. As for the rest, I don't know. Ive got an R33 and looking under the bonnet, there really isn't much collision with other components.

Cmon dude I'm here and I'll take one for the right price. I can pick up today if you're not too far

I just experienced something interesting and scary. Installed my boost controller today and got it set for 8psi. It fell off the mount and I was unaware my foot was touching the dial. I gave it a little hit and it took off like never before then the power vanished at about 5krpm. I pulled over straight away and my settings screwed up and I managed to hit 14.7 psi accudently, on a stock turbo and ecu. I shit in my pants and just let the car idle for a few mins to cool down. I get my new tuned ecu this coming week hopefully. Tuned for 10psi on stock everything apart from exhaust and fmic. With a good safe tune, 10psi and stock turbo should see around 180 - 190rwkw.

People expect too much from their cars without spending. Spend at least $700 - $2000 on an ECU and tune and run your stock components to get power. You can get free performance to an extent. Its not coil packs. My old r33 was making 240rwkw with 17psi and using std coils, as others have said. Your ECU is responding to the extra air.

Hey all Looking for a proper boost controller which fits nice and flush in the coin pocket thing under the stereo. Currently got some shitty hybrid one in their with two dials but I have no idea what settings its on so I always leave it off. Does anyone have any pictures of their boost controller installs? Ive got a profec b spec 2 but want something a little easier to use. Pix and suggestions would be great.

He doesn't have an R33 GTR, he has silvia with GTR brembo brakes, they will fit the caliper but not work around the strut and connect back into the hard line on the car. Correct me if I'm wrong though. Thats a bargain compared to what these could cost you.

Anyone?

Hey all Well as I start to organize the engine work on my car, I gotta think about the cosmetic. Car is currently white and its gonna go through a makeover. Rather then just fixing dings and dents and fresh white, I want to give it a pearl white with a holo silver flake. I have no idea how this works though and if this combo is possible. Does the car have to be sanded back to metal or just clear coat? Is the pearl mixed with the white paint and then the holo silver mixed with the clear coat and put ontop? I'm not gonna do this my self but I might give it a shot on my old bonnet for shits and kicks. The flake is cheap, the pearl is cheap. What is the process of spraying? Do you sand back, paint flat white then paint pearl white followed by holo flake clear then just regular clear coats? What kind of paint do you use in a regular sprayer? I hear alot about baking and stuff, I obviously cant try this my self. What kind of paint do you buy? Are all clear coats the same? I dont want this to go dull over a year, do I simply have the painter apply shitloads of clear coat? How much paint is needed for an R33 2 door? A million questions but any info would help