SargeRX8

Ive got a 44mm tial. The guy I bought the turbo from is helping me organise a brand new one! He also said he will get me one with a .82 rear if I like. I will go with this option and keep it internal. With a bigger housing, the gate should be able to flow enough through to keep boost constant. If not, Ill get the actuator rod locked rather than the flap welded and have a secondary manifold with a WG flange as suggested previously.

I was suggested by Precision turbo to actually maintain the housing and that with a good WG it will be perfect on an RB25.

Exhaust is not for sale, its being used on my car. Turbo was sold a while ago.

The guy I got the turbo from is willing to buy me a new shaft. I just need to know the part number for the shaft. Does anyone have any idea? If its gonna cost me another $200 - $300 to fix, ill pay that. I cant just throw $800 away(thats what it cost me). At the time we both had no idea the wheel was damaged.

Its getting tempting to give up on it all. First turbo I buy was wrong flange now this one with a chipped wheel....

I just took it off. Came off smoothly but to my surprise the f**king turbine wheel has chips in all fins. This is f**king bullshit.

Should I loosen the tension brackets to give it room to rotate so that it doesn't come off balance and hit the wheel?

Also the rear housing seems a little stuck from abit of rust. Can I tap it with a hammer? Or spray it with wd40?

Found it from the US for about $490. Genuine Garrett. It's what you're suggesting. Should I buy it or stay local? How much can they be found for?

Im going GCG tomorrow then over to Precision to discuss options. Guy I got it from made 430rwhp on a V8 with the .63 and external gate. I think this housing should suffice on a Skyline as it has significantly less exhaust output than a 355.

Wait, lol, you've got your BOV blocked? That's even worse. Ive done that once and the smell of fuel was astounding.

How long though? I cant take my current ones off and measure them. I need the car running til the day I put it all together and I don't want to be hunting down parts in the last minute.

My car runs poorly with AC and I run the standard BOV. To say the least though, it doesn't stall but its definitely harder to move off the lights than with the AC off. Ive got new plugs too. I think my AAC might be dirty... And damn these air cons are shit in 39+ weather lol.

Ill be keen on one of them, Ive got a plug. This would leave you with 1 afm. PM me. In Sydney can Pickup.

Oh so they're just regular high tensile studs? Are any high tensile suitable for the temps or should I say they are going to be using them in a car exhaust/turbo system. I can go to the nut house near my area. Do you know the length of the stud you bought?

I can find studs everywhere but with my turbo and an 12mm spacer, I need longer studs. Where do I get them? How long are longer studs? I'm finding 38mm studs. Is that what I need? Theres about 20mm for the spacer and the turbo and 10mm to thread onto. Is the other 8mm enough to get deep into the manifold? Standard manifold here. What is the bolt thread pattern?

The effort of selling and waiting is too long. It took me so damn long just to source the parts. I wasn't too fussed about it as I did intend to go high mount but have been doubting it recently. JKR-32, where did you make the weld for the external WG flange?

These controllers are tough. Boost settings on one car could be VERY different on another. My car runs 35% and 40% giving me 13 and 15 psi(my old car actually). Gain is the main boost settings I think or is that the one where boost falls it boosts it up? I had that set to 10%. Interestingly my warning was set to a couple % above my main % but the drop after warn was 0%. This was done by CRD and it actually gave me perfect boost control. You would not have caused any major damage. I know a guy who ran 32psi into his rb25 neo which actually took a few days to kill(the headgasket went). You gotta check to ensure your boost controller is installed and setup correctly, if anything would die it would be your turbo. You didn't mention which turbo you are running but if you ran 30+psi through a stock r32 turbo I am certain it would have shattered by now.... There is no way a turbo that old could withstand that pressure. These turbos shit them selves close to 15psi...

I got rid of that GT3071 T2 turbo and got my self a GT3082R from the same guy. Issue now is with this one, he had welded the flap shut because he was running an externally gated system. Ive got a external wastegate and all that stuff + a top mount manifold but thats my problem. I don't want to be running top mount... Is it a bad idea to try and cut the weld? Would the flap ever seal the way it was? What are my options? Is it possible to buy a new flap and replace that one? I'm finding it hard to find a low mount manifold with an external wg port... Could the stock one be modified? Ive got two of them... I just want advice guys. I don't want to go top mount as I don't want too much attention under the bonnet. I want it to sit low and would much prefer an internally gated setup.

I planned to man but it took me this long to get my cash flow and now I f**ked up

Ive got a brand new Garrett GT3071R. Rear housing is marked .86. Bought this unaware that these turbo's actually came in a T2 thinking it was a T3. I bought it off a guy who was going to use it on his car but ended up going larger or something. He has the receipts which I can get a hold of for the buyer. It has never been used. It does not have an actuator and is internally gated. I'm asking $1100 for this thing. Thats pretty cheap for these turbos. Great for rb20(I think they use a t2 but may be suitable with a t3 to t2 adapter) and sr's and other motors where a T2 is applicable. I will highly consider swaps for a garret gt3071, 76, 82 with a T3 flange and a .86 rear. Please PM me, I can provide my mobile number. I can post around Australia via courier of your choice or Aus Post(with insurance). Please guys, I need this gone.

I think room will be fine. I just need this clarified. Is the ONLY difference between a T2 .86 and a T3 .86 the flange? Is the housing the same size? Will the flange size be restrictive or will it open up inside the housing to allow the same flow of exhaust as a T3 just be abit tighter up front? I don't want to hit 5krpm then watch a downhill decent...

I bought a brand new gt3071r from some guy who was meant to put it on his car but ended up using something else. Anyway, by my own fault, I assumed it was a t3 gt3071r as I was under the impression all gt30 turbos(well majority) are t3. This one though is a t2. Could I run a t2 to t3 adapter? Its a .86 rear and the front is .50 or some shit. Cheers.

But even if you flip the gear, isn't the tooth just gonna snap again?

It's brand new. Now my problem is t2 and t3