SargeRX8

f**k the turbo is a .86 t2 flange. The guy thought it was t3. Can I just buy a t2 to t3?

Would that be the same? Just gotta make sure the oil/water lines aren't fouled by the engine.

Hey all, I just bought a GT3071R but the car it was originally going on wasn't a skyline so at the moment, the comp cover does not line up with the standard position on the RB. How do I adjust it? There are bolts and clips on the back, if I loosen those could I turn the housing? Would I need new gaskets to reseal the turbo or just bolt it back up? I see people here selling turbos always pulling off the front cover to show the wheel. Just want to be sure. Thanks

Buy it, enjoy it, sell it to someone else to enjoy for a while. The cycle goes on. Its not something I'd keep. I run my car without the coilpack cover, after some rain, my coil area was flooded with water.

The car has been in an accident so to speak(it was driven over a gutter by the first owner) but the tyre wear was very even. Its only the last couple days Ive noticed how negative the camber is as the top sits in quite alot. It happened esp after I changed the castor rod to a solid one. The suspension was checked by Jax and they said it was quite solid and that the accident didn't cause any structural damage but it did damage the passenger side bearings and ball joint which is why I changed the whole hub.

Yes they are unless ADR approved which is extremely unlikely. They shatter into too many pieces or don't shatter at all. I read a story about some guy almost losing his arm coz it launched through his window. It will attract police who will likely defect you for the bonnet and also if you are involved in an accident it WILL void your insurance. I had one, sold it for the above reasons

I changed my whole front passenger wheel hub, LCA and upper control arms. I never payed attention to it before but I noticed there is a massive camber on the front. Every time I take a sharp bend with some speed, my front wheels chirp. Is this due to a wheel alignment issue or the camber issue? It looks pretty nice but it also looks very detrimental to my tyres life... R33 GTST.

Bent fork not pulling the clutch all the way? Heavy duty, esp extreme heavy duty, put alot of load on the pedal and fork.

Woop, all done. Used a 1 meter bar to break the bolts. Swapped over the whole thing from my old car, works perfect. No more jumping wheel and clunking sounds. I'm gonna invest in a rattle gun. Will always come in handy.

Can I use an ABS hub assembly on my non ABS car? How f**king tight is the bolt holding the LCA. I snapped my breaker pole.

After having my brakes fixed I went to get my car checked out. Following past symptoms, the mechanic told me my left ball joints and bearings are f**ked. Ive got my old R33 series 2 still sitting here. I was gonna buy the parts new but I really cant find anywhere that sells them and I'm sure Nissan do charge a fair bit. Everything I find is for a GTR or the 4wd cars. Could I remove the old wheel hub and ball joint off my old car? Note that I have no idea what any of these parts look like or where they are located, let alone removing the wheel hub. The shop said they could fix it but it would be hard to source the parts.. Cheers.

I think my problem is air in the master. When I installed the lines I let aol the old fluid drain out from the front passenger caliper. I got someone to pump the pedal until there was nothing coming out. This was a bad move... If there is air in the cylinder, will it come out?

I do not have an ABS unit in my car. There are no bleed nipples on the master cylinder... How necessary is it to hold the jar above the nipple? I just flex the pipe up so the bubbles travel up. When I crack the nipple, my assistant usually will hit the floor as soon as the pressure drops, thats when I seal it back up and then they release the pedal sucking in fresh fluid from the master resevoir. Is there any point trying a gravity bleed? The mechanic suggested I try this before taking the car to him.

This is how I did it. My first attempt was with the car ON but with this my engine sounded like it was going to stall. I managed to get alot of air out but not sufficient. The next day I tried again. I would start with the rear passenger then rear driver then front passenger and front driver. I will have my assistant pump the pedal 3 - 5 times hard then hold down firmly then crack the nipple for about half a second into a bleeder line. I will then seal it up and ask them to do it again. I then proceed to the next caliper in the order above. I ensure my fluid is always well above minimum. I ensure my assistant will hold the peddle firmly to the floor and after I give the call that I have tightened up the bleeder, they would them remove their foot off the brake. I did not hold any of the rotors down and I think this may have had an effect on the overall bleed. It does look like clean new fluid is now in the system though. I managed to get quite a large jolt of old fluid today which did surprise me(it was new and clean then a shot of dirty old green fluid shot through). I'm using Motul dot 5.1(its suitable for all dot 3/4/5.1 applications). I do intend on changing my brake pads very soon with some QMX pads I think they were called so I'm really hoping I wouldn't have to go through this shit again lol.

Hey all, I installed a set of HEL brake lines on my car. Been following all the guides for bleeding with a helper. I thought I got most of the air out but the brake pedal is strange. On the first press its mushy and will hit the floor but an immediate press after the brake feels very nice and firm. Then if I release for about 5 seconds, it will do the same thing, soft on the first press then nice and firm afterwards. I took it to a shop and he suggested I do a gravity bleed and stated that something might not be aligned properly with the calipers/rotors. I did notice something is that my rotor sits loose(front only) when the wheel is off. Could this affect the bleeding? The rotor will most likely flex a little out of balance. I will attempt my next bleed with lugs tightened on the bolts to hold the rotor stiff. Does anyone else have any other ideas or suggestions? There are no leaks in the system.

I was originally running tein HR coilovers. Too hard for my likeing so I got a set of bilstein shocks with the standard r33 springs. They are really comfortable for driving compared to the other set I had before except now if I go over a major pot hole or a crease in the road it literally feels like the car hit the floor. Its a really loud BANG. Its like its too soft now and just BOOM you can hear it and feel it rather badly in the car. Could it be worn out shocks or are these springs not good? Seriously feels like my car is gonna fall apart haha.

Why not start a group buy for replacement glass covers? That would be awesome! Any glass moulder/manufacturer could do it and I'm sure there would be hundreds of customers!

Is that suspension better than stock? Ive got teins and need a replacement. If you're willing to post to Sydney via ego or transdirect, PM me.

I made him an offer but he prefers local pickup for the price I offered. He's in Brisbane.

It looks more red... Kind of like ATF fluid... If I clean it up and don't run the AC, will I see a build up?

Looking underneath my car I found oil on the bottom of my AC compressor... I wiped it off and the next day it was back again. It doesn't look like its dripping from the top, its just on the bottom. Is there oil in the AC compressor and do they ever leak? It doesn't look like engine oil...

My old R33 gtst would lift on high boost and steering would be weightless to say the least. I found out I had adjustable suspension so I raised the back up a notch which firmed up the arse end and hopefully put the center of gravity further up the chassis. I was only making about 240rw and 580nm. Firm up the rear and try get the COG forward.

Check your castor bushes. Broken castor bushes will give a thud or knock during breaking. My R33 GTST is giving weird clunks only on the right side when braking. Changed my damaged swaybar link today(its literally stuck in the ball joint). Doubt its gonna fix it. Anything rubber could be cracked and something could be moving out of place.

Will a series 2 r33 bonnet fit and line up with a series 1?

Trade for a set of tein adjustable coilovers? Too damn hard for me. Cash adjustments if necessary.