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R32GTS-t RB25DET

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About R32GTS-t RB25DET

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DE
  • Birthday 09/15/1990

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  • MSN
    chestm007@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canberra, ACT

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    rb2630 R32 GTS-T Skyline
  • Real Name
    Max Chesterfield
  1. This is based on my own 2630 swap, so some things MIGHT not be covered. PARTS SHORTLIST: Rb25 harmonic balancer, ancillaries and brackets (even AC, if you want it), power steering bracket will likely need to be modified (google rb30det guide) Rb25 OR rb30 sump (either will work fine, though from memory the rb25 sump needs modifying, I've used rb30 sumps multiple times without issue) R33 Rb25 engine mounts (the metal brackets) SHORTENED by at least 15mm (15mm was just enough for my top mount turbo to clear the bonnet without spacers, 12mm would be fine if using a low mount). Be careful as removing any more then ~12mm from the engine mounts will have a factory rb30 sump pan start poking down lower then the subframe. R32 gtr rb26 engine harness (don't need the whole engine bay harness + fuse box etc, engine harness is fine) gtr injector resistor pack (if keeping stock gtr injectors, they're OK for ~280-300rwkw) If you have rb20 coil packs and ignitor they will plug in and work fine, mine did - and still are. WIRING: Pull out the old engine harness, disconnect every plug it goes too gently. Run the rb26 engine harness the same way around the bay and connect everything you can (should be a few connectors in the passengers footwell, wiper motor, etc) Near the factory airbox location, there will be 1 plug on your body loom that fits one of the 2 plugs on the rb26 loom, connect it. The other plug will have 8 pins, 6 of which are in the same "segment", those are all of your injector "power" wires. If using high impedance injectors, just run power to these 6 wires, obviously switched with ignition - if your keeping the GTR injectors you'll need to wire in the resistor pack. the resistor pack will have 1 white and 6 black wires, connect the white wire to an ignition switched 12v source, then join each of the black wires to one of the wires in that remaining plug "segment". Everything in the dash works, no need to swap in a GTR cluster, and the speed dependent power steering also works
  2. OK, well i sorted it... not sure how but this is what i did.. changed the spark plugs (the old ones were as black as the ace of spades) adjusted the tps so that it sensed the accelerator a little bit earlier advances the CAS timing a touch somehow it now goes over 2500rpm... not sure why the car fixed itself but it did wierd...
  3. ok, just got engine rebuilt, put it in, started it up... worked fine, but wouldnt rev over 2500... took it for a drive, still wont go over 2500, but has heaps of power under that. checked afm, all sensors.. everything, found out that the tps is broken.. the top plug has been snapped and the top terminal is missing... but the car still idles. now it wont start easily, and is leaking coolant out of the bellhousing for seemingly no reason... the coolant leak doesnt bother me cos its not much, but limp mode is driving me crazy. how do i get my ecu into diag mode so it can tell me why its in limp? i have no led's in the ecu, and its a RB25DET out of an auto stagea(im assuming), put into a manual r32 GTS-4 the ecu has this written on it - [PCMNR-030] [C1] [6Y01] ANY help would be appreciated cheers
  4. Hey all, I'm looking for a pair of headlights that will fit into an r34 headlight spot. I really don't care what they look like as long as they will fit! cheers -
  5. hey guys, ive looked around a bit but cant find anything, im not sure how good/bad i am at drifting but where can i learn/practise? anyone know of like... amateur events or something i could enter? ive got a R32 GTS-4 with an rb30/25det hybrid cheers
  6. i feel so sorry for you... 6 hours after i bought mine someone did that too me.... how bad is the damage?
  7. yeah the injectors are fairly noisy... all the time, this noise is only for like 7 seconds or less at startup... waterpump sounds possible... but wouldnt it be more of a crunching instead of a knock/tick? thanks our12 ill check that this arvo and might pull my cam covers off and check the lifter gaps and check for dirty oil
  8. yeah, its a fairly hollow-ish knock.... like amplified injectors.... REALLY amplified... will get audio on monday
  9. wow dude, i like it.... just a quickie, being a GTR... how do u plan to get too the 4wd reservoir?... but other then that i think its cool
  10. i used one of the bolt holes the remained after i took the plate out from behind my back seats... if your plate is still there maybe tap into one of those bolts?
  11. big end??? !@#$ lol, umm the car (4wd system etc) has done 184k kms... the motor was swapped, and im sure has only had 60k-80k kms... ill get a recording when i get home on monday. if its a tick its a really loud tick... its allways had a slight tick on cold start or after its been sitting for a bit... but after its last few outings its gotten a bit louder. i ran around the motor with a screwdriver held against my ear and either the injectors are really loud or the lifters have a big gap. - Max
  12. hey, my r32 makes a friggin loud couple of knocks when i start my motor when its cold or been sitting for over an hour... its like knock, knock knock knock every 0.5 secs.... and gets softer in 5 seconds and goes away after abt 7 secs is it normal??? or bad and causing damage...... thanks guys
  13. ok i think i found the problem.... a 1/2 unsealed intercooler pipe... fixed that and all seems good...
  14. - edit - today it started stalling and stuff, but would still rev over 2500.... it'd redline actually... im thinking maybe a fuel pump? cos immediately after stalling... unless u let all the buzzing get over and done with (a pump of some sort... fuel i guess....) it will just stall straight away... also the exhaust/cat light comes on in the dash... but the car stalls after a minute or so..... ???????? WTF???
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