Samuel Leonard

Wondering if anyone that has a healthy R32 gts-t with just a standard ecu and no tune, wondering if you could do a quick record with scantech just to be able to reference a healthy car. Maybe 10 seconds of a cold idle, 10 seconds of a warm idle and maybe a recording of the engine under a bit of load? Or revving? I have searched and can't find anyone that's uploaded this but it would be a huge help trouble shooting to reference stock injector times In milliseconds and afm reading vs throttle position etc

Hi all, I'm after an R35 GT-R for my wedding on the 13th of February next year. I'm 23 so I can't hire one which I'm really upset about because I wanted to drive off in one, but the next best thing is to be driven off In one. I've owned 3 r32's and one r32 gtr. I'm a major gtr fan and I've never been in an r35. Would make me extremely happy. Willing to pay!!!

Jmhinkle, the burnt corner of the glass is how they deal those displays. It's called a vacuum fluorescent display and they suck the air out of the screen and then burn the corner to seal it. The burn mark does not indicate a faulty display.

Yes, it was the resistors under the VFD. I now have a rework station and I'm happy if people want to post them to me and I'll post them back. I live in SA. Just text or call 0431 398 657

Hey guys, yeah I fixed mine and I'm happy to fix them for $50. I also will pay for postage if anyone has a dead one handy I'll give you $10 for it?

sorry to dig up an old thread, but surely there is some way to tell a gtr box to a gts4 box without opening it up... I am about to sell the box out of my r32 gtd4 but it used to be an auto so it has to be either a 32 gts4 or gtr box or a 33 gtr box. any way to tell?

Thanks! Hope I can get a few to fix!

South Australia i can fix r32 gtr clocks! looking for broken r32 gtr interior clocks from the left of the steering wheel. i live in west beach sa and am happy to pick up if your not too far away and also happy to remove it from the car. i will be selling working clocks soon, bench tested and tested in my 32 gtr before selling.

do you have the r32 gtr clock? i fix them (most are broken) if so let me know. left of the steering wheel

do you have the interior clock? left of the steering wheel? i fix them so if you do and it's broken, let me know. thanks

do you still have the clock from the interior? left of the steering wheel? i'm looking to buy broken clocks. i can fix them.

after vigorous testing, i have fixed the clock on the interior of the R32 GT-R and i am looking for more dead clocks! i live in west beach SA reply here if you're interested or pm me. i am happy to come and remove the clock for you it will take me 10 minutes or so and it won't leave a hole in your dash. i can put the black clock cover back on your dash so your dash won't look any different. thanks, sam.

i got it for $80!!! they are usually over $200 i think. are you certain it's leaking and not the high pressure line or copper washers joining the high presure line to the hydraulic assembly?

Alright. Thanks heaps

I have diagnosed my own 4wd issues finally and confirmed my pump is seized along with my pressure sensor being stuffed. Got a new hydraulic assembly tonight, just wondering if anyone has replaced it before and can tell me the easiest way? Does the diff have to come completely out? Or follow the workshop manual exactly? Thanks guys. Going to tackle it tomorrow night.

finally i think i've found the problem and it explains everything. my ecu is not ever running the pump because the ecu is getting a constant reading of full line pressure from hydraulic line pressure sensor. it is impossible to diagnose because the workshop manual asks to check pin 42 on the loom that goes into the ecu for continuity to ground. i didn't have continuity to ground. so i decided to plug the ecu back in and back probe this terminal with it all plugged in. i had 5 volts at this terminal which i then grounded and my ecu finally earthed the pump relay control circuit! in summary, if your 4wd isn't working and you have no codes, back probe terminal 42 on the attesa ecu and see if you have voltage. if you do, try grounding that terminal and see if your pump runs (or at least the relay tries to command the pump to run) as the pump is probably siezed from sitting there stationary for years like mine is. i now know that a hydraulic assembly should fix my problem as a new pump assembly comes with the pressure sensor and accumulator and valves etc. as one unit.

i'll just keep updating in the hope that someone in the know will help i checked the earth wires going to the attesa ecu and they're all ok. i grounded the 4WD pump relay control circuit from the plug on the ecu and the relay closed so the ecu is simply not instructing the pump to run. however, as stated my ecu worked fine in a mates car so the problem must be with the hydraulic line pressure sensor. the ecu must not think it needs to run the pump as it must see adequate line pressure from a faulty sensor. i will rule this out next. anyone with any ideas please let me know!

Looked into this further, I heard the wrong relay clicking. Not the 4 pin pump relay, the other 5 pin relay was clicking. The 4 pin pump relay works correctly, (bench tested and tried in another GT-R) the ecu works fine, (tested in another GT-R) the wiring from the relay earth to the ecu is fine as I tested continuity and it's good. I suppose the next thing to check is the ecu's earth? I have no codes. Could my attesa hydraulic line pressure sensor just be stuck?

for future reference, if you hold the off button on your climate control for about 5 - 10 seconds as soon as you turn the ignition on it goes into diagnostic mode. look it up and you can work out error codes, faulty sensors and circuits. have a play around

update: i went out and removed the air bleed connector behind the drivers side kick panel. i could hear the relay clicking when i turned the ignition on. it got dark so i couldn't test any further. hope to continue diagnosing it tomorrow after work!

I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?

I got sick of my oil pressure reading very low when warm (0 to .5 on the factory guage) so i decided to replace the sensor. You will need an open ended 17 mm spanner and you will need to undo a hose clamp (mine was a small socket to undo) this side of the engine bay. undo the bottom fuel line hose clamp and slide it off (it is the return line so there is no pressure in this line but some fuel will dribble out so be careful) this is the fuel pressure sensor about 20 cm below the fuel line hopefully you can see it in focus down there with a rubber gromet over the plug on the left hand end of it. this is what the plug looks like with the grommet pulled back. fairly easy to remove. you need to get a 17mm open ended spanner on the sensor to undo it. this is the new sensor i bought off ebay from nissan of chesapeake in usa. it cost me $95 delivered here. and this is the end result. a good oil pressure reading in the cluster guage. may not be highly accurate but it would certainly be able to warn you of a problem before it does too much damage.

I have to work but thanks for trying to help me

PS. It is a BEAUTIFUL day in Adelaide today sunny and no chance of rain!!! Please?

I am an R32 GT-R enthusiast, I have personally rebuilt the engine in my r32 GT-R about 2 months ago and am very interested in going in an r35. I'm a 3rd year apprentice mechanic and very interested in the technology behind them. You don't have to launch it or drive to impress I just want to experience the r35 GT-R. I live in west beach SA and I'm 20 years young and have been to main north Nissan and had a close look but never been in one. Anyone feeling kind? Thanks, Sam.