GodziRRa

Hi guys! Is the BNR32 fuel tank plastic HDPE? We’re going to repair a ‘94 Gtr this weekend, and just wanna make sure we got the right material for it. Thank you!

I just replaced my old krusty solenoid. And since I tested the resistance of the new one, I also tested the wirings because I have a voltmeter in my hand… and I remember before that my mechanic had some rewiring done. 🙂

Thanks for that detailed solenoidy reply! Just confused why the supposed terminal that’s giving 12v (ignition on) isn’t giving me any, and the terminal that shouldn’t is giving one. If this is the case then we’re problem free. 😊 Some parts of that old FSM still confuses me.

Because I got power at the horizontal terminal with the ignition on not the verical one. Just now I started the car, and at idle I’m getting 12v on both terminals. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Hi guys, Just looked at the FSM regarding the RB26’s oem pcm valve/boost solenoid. It says valve terminal 1 and 2, didn’t say wire color etc. I’m no electrician so I’m not really familiar with the symbols. One terminal has a black verical line as some sort of symbol. Anyone can tell which is which? Because I did get a 12v output on a terminal that’s supposed to have none. 😅 Terminal one is for the yellow and blue wire, or that’s the black and red wire? TIA!

Hi guys! Installed a GReddy RB26 Aluminum I/C Pipes last week, now I notice there is a turbo wistle/whine during spools. I haven’t noticed them before, I dunno if it’s connected. Was thinking maybe it’s because the thick insulated rubber pipe (after the “Twin Turbo” pipe ) was replaced with a metal one that’s why the wistle is more audible now? That was our theory because that rubber pipe was insulated. Anyone had similar experience?

Yup, it’s different strokes for different folks, people will believe what they wanna. But I must disagree it’s just about those pretty packages. Remember, those old Porsches, Ferraris, etc. are also not into pure synthetics back in the day. But nowadays, that’s what they recommend for their old models too. Oil technology have gone very far now, anything that gives optimum performance, and will prolonging engine life will be the one recommended. I agree with mick, "ya pay for quality". Because at the end of the day, better quality = more cost. As the saying goes, and this is a car enthusiast favorite, you get what you paid for. ?

Since it's not mentioned, I just like to add that 15W50 is one of the most popular oil viscosity choice among GT-R owners around the world. I even remember in GTROC U.K, there was a poll back then, 15W50 came on top, followed by 10W60. GT-R's RB26 is high revving so they like these kinds of "thick" oil. Nismo in fact, has these oils recommended for the RB26. Nismo competition oil 15W50 and Nismo RB26 oil 10W60. The 10W60 is more of the street / track performance one, while the 15W50 is more like the 300V, a race oil. Also an Evo (CT9A) driver here, and I can tell, these boys has different taste when it come to their oil. Here's the Nismo 10W60 RB26 oil BTW.

Old post but very nice work!! Have to bring this up for future reference though. This issue on the smoked indicators might not be because of alignment. This aftermarket indicators (colin I think) are known to have minor fitting issue, especially the L side. Need to drill or adjust mounting hole to make them fit flush properly. You guys should've tested an OEM indicators first before adjusting. If you set the body alignment based on this aftermarket, then I'm afraid the work is misalignment now.

PMed.

Hello! I'm selling these week used red brake rotor cover from JDM company Slash. It is made of aluminum and is about 1mm thick. Easy installation. Here are some pics. Price is 183AUD, but the item though is currently at Manila Philippines so there will be an extra shipping charge. Here are some item reference- http://www.rhdjapan....cover-set-63210 http://www.slashowy...._gtrh_drc1.html (Slash JDM website)

Thanks GTRsean!! So this is for the Heater Core? Maybe that explains it since the Jap mechanic that maintains the car before had removed the heater from the car. Was anxious that some important electrical plug has been disconnected. Car is BNR32 by the way. So the BNR34 harness doesn't have that terminal plug anymore?

Good day guys! Was checking out the engine bay today when I noticed one plug is loose on the side of the igniter. Can you guys please help me identify these?? Harness view... (one in the middle) Any inputs will be very much appreciated.

Well you guys might also want to know since I verified today that in some cases it is NORMAL for the RB26 to have a more or less 0.40V difference between the MAFs. Next thing to check in this elusive problem is fueling.

I did that mate. I used another MAF, new ECU, checked the voltage signal and ground of the socket via test light... but no success. I just don't know about the turbos though. But the thing is the car has a cold start problem, and idle is rough when cold. I need to press the gas pedal a bit just to start it when cold. And another thing I notice today is when I step on the gas pedal a bit the rear MAF w/c is low reading will rise above 1V (but still lower than the front MAF), but when I release the pedal the rear MAF will go as low as 0.40 V (engine will shudder a bit) then will rise again to 0.75 or 0.80 V... whereas the front MAF will just go down to 1 V.