R31Nismoid

So after a long... Long time. MechWarrior is coming back to the gaming world. I'm epically excited and have been watching it for a little while. I'm sure a few of you older fellows would remember it very well and no doubt played It'll be free to play online, but there are Premium options you can pay for and earn extra c-bills and xp etc. There is a special "Founders Pack" that was announced today as well with varying costs and you get some bonus stuff, more exp/c-bill earning % etc. Check out the site for more info: http://mwomercs.com/ Now for the cool shit:

In a full time 4WD split car? Not really... In a GTR/RWD yes, but not EVO which is full time split!

I reckon you'll be hating them... You know how to fix the problem, and how good the ride will be

Half my apartment block has fallen down

Sounds like you have sensor/part issues, not tune issues.

Please use the search function. Project and build-up is not the section for questions.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/

Well we already established earlier you probably need to visit a better tuner... Why don't you go to EFI, they are in QLD and have been doing good work

It will be a while (read: a month or so at least). Mick is epic busy at the moment and I'm jammed up working 24x7 coverage for work. Once I do it'll be posted up and the usual stuff with plenty of notice

Bump - grab a bargain before it goes. Doubt this will be here for too long

Is it a Genuine Garrett GT35R - or a copy GT35R that doesn't have proper Garrett GT wheels or cartridge?

Best way would be to become as familiar with the car as you can, and then change it and see. Two ends of the dial would be a good starting point to notice said difference If there is more drive being sent up front, assuming 10 on the dial being max, you'll notice it when you feel the front end pulling you harder out of a corner. What the best setting is, will depend on you and the car. Trial/error.

I ran 12.9 with 109mph

As you were warned last time - do not sell cigarettes on here again, or it'll be instant ban. It's illegal without a license.

Which results have you been reading? By and large results tend to point in the way such that GTX spool is not as good. It's also obvious you need a gut load of boost to get to the power you want as opposed to the GT series which give good results on lower numbers. Obviously the GTX will make more as you keep screwing boost in as they perform better there etc.

Man the CH10 feed is just rubbish

Oh missed that bit. Should be ok as long as it's a true 3" (jap exhausts tend to have a restrictor in the middle so get it checked). So then just a ECU/Tune which will be $1500 or there abouts. Change the fuel pump as well and be happy really. Otherwise it's turbos out, and that alone will be a 3-4k adventure given the turbos themselves will cost $2200. Certainly worth changing them if you can afford. Then you can make 300rwkw on stock injectors & AFMs. Otherwise you'll be stuck around 250rwkw with stock turbos. If you do change turbos you will also need a clutch as a stock one won't last @ 300rwkw forever. Either way there is no way you are going to get near 350rwkw with $5000. You need $8000-$10,000 as you'd also pay attention to brakes, full fluids service, injectors/AFM etc.

Whats the budget? 1. Put stock airbox on 2. Exhaust 3. PFC & a tune That's a $2.5k-3k spent right there. You should do more reading though, things like piping and intercooler stay as is... Plenty of threads covering it all.

Solid pass Ben! I saw that video last night whilst browsing youtube, love the burnout RE: Go-pros... I found the opposite when doing some tarmac stuff earlier in the year. Need adjustable zoom! Should do a video without the music and just the sound of the car in all angles. Built this big setup and one can hardly hear it

Yeah they are cheap. I just picked up a VY SS sedan for 13k with reasonable KM's and in perfect nick (some light mods too). SS wagons are still 17k though unfortunately. Might build a little S13 track thrasher now so I've got something to tow around

Ye people have that issue with -10s... The ARMS are rubbish as well (as we kinda suspected). Full thread on them is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368988-tomei-arms-m7655-on-rb26/

Totally agree Anthony, don't need all wonderous cuts. Just ingnition cut as a rev limiter :thumbsup

If you have a Z32, do you have a PFC? The hand controller would have told you what sensor was at fault. It logs it even when the car stalls so it's easy to workout whats farked

Not really the valves... The issue is simply detonation/knock (there are many other things, but lets just keep it simple). You simply reach a limit where boost & PULP (& E85) don't agree. Pushing further will end up in detonation which will eventually see the rings/bearings shit themselves or similar. Problem is the fuel variance for one, you get a batch of fuel that is *slightly* out, combined with a tune on the edge = you are f**ked. Most tuners a conservative and this will never be a problem and the motor should last for a while... How long is a while? - how long is a piece of string? So then what it comes down to is motor age, condition, servicing etc. If you haven't owned the car since new, then how do you know how it's been looked after for the 10-15 years prior to you owning it? Fact is, you don't. It as also built on a production line, not two motors are identical as well with clearances, quality of the parts etc. Hence some cars make more power and some make less (in factory form 10yrs down the track). You need to remember pushing 300rwkw is essentially doubling the factory output. It's just age at the end of the day. A shit tune will obviously hasten the death. I mean I've seen stock RB26's circuit raced for 2-3 years over 300-340rwkw, eventually they start to breathe as its just a simple case of worn mechanical parts. Or stock RB26's with udner 300rwkw spin bearings driving round on the street... Nothing is indestructable. The golden rule is this: If you cannot afford the rebuild, then don't chase the power. It's proven a RB25 will take 200-270rwkw day in, day out for a very long time (look @ PaulR33, making 200-210rwkw for over 100,000kms). Ask more of it, well it's all a gamble really.

And don't think you stock motor will last forever @ 300rwkw. Slowly but surely some users in the 300rwkw RB25 thread, are killing motors. It was always going to happen, and there will be more as the months roll on. If you want a stock motor to last, stick to a safe 260-280rwkw on a sensible 16-18psi. Realistically you've got a GTX, you NEED to run upwards of 20psi to make benefit of it. So unless you do want to run such levels of boost you should have purchased a GT3076.