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About nj1

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    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    Nissan Silvia S15

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  1. Hi, i have read a few threads regarding mod plates for reduced seating capacity, namely just two front seats. Can you still get a modplate to have just the drivers seat? No passenger or rear seats. Car is a r32 gtst. Thanks
  2. R32 Skyline Track Car E85. Dynoed at 380 rwhp. Built and tuned by reputable skyline tuner in Brisbane. All receipts and modifications/parts list available. RB20det. Top end rebuilt with steel head gasket, new valves, new springs and cams. Upgraded turbo (Hypergear ATR43SS) All fluids replaced less than 100 km. New brakes (slotted rotors/ebc yellowstuff pads) Sparco Racing Seat Takata Harness Full cage. Flex fuel sensor. Tuned to run E85. Interior stripped. Unrequired parts such as A/C removed. 50% worn slick tyres. 18" rota rims in good condition. 10" wide fronts and 12" wide rears. Body is in good condition, car has never been in an accident. Genuine low kms. Gearbox/diff is in great condition. Car is ready to race. All modifications have been done with reliability and performance in mind. Full list of modifications available on enquiry. **2T Tilt trailer also available for sale for $3000. Trailer has winch and is approximately 2 years old and has just been serviced. Contact 0400 766 234 for more information.
  3. Located in Brisbane
  4. R32 Skyline Track/Race Car R32 GTST Track Car for Sale. RB20Det purpose track build 380rwhp @ 23psi on E85. Engine/Car has 87XXX kms on it. Car owes well in excess of $40k. Looking for $24000 or best offer. Engine Engine Top End just refurbished/rebuilt, new valves, springs, Tomei cams, camshafts, steel head gasket and ARP Head studs. Stock bottom end and internals. Prior to rebuild I had an engine oil sample tested (no elevated wear metals or contaminants detected). Hypergear ATR43SS Turbo, Denso pencil coils, 1000cc injectors, high flow E85 fuel pump, fuel labs pressure regulator, High Flow CAT & BPP Fuel Rail. PWR Intercooler Painted Black. Exposed POD filter where headlight should be. Also provision to put the headlight back in and drop the pod into the inner guard pulling cool air through fog light area. Cooling. KOYA Radiator with twin push/pull thermo fans. Driveline. Standard RB20det gearbox with Competition Clutch Heavy Duty race clutch (4000 km old). Competition Clutch light weight flywheel (4000km old). Transmission fluid is Redline Shockproof. Suspension, Wheels & Braking. Fully adjustable coil overs, damping and ride height adjustable. Fully adjustable camber and castor arms. BF Racing Brake Fluid (High Temp, never had the pedal go to the floor). Front has Slotted and Cross Drilled Rotors with EBC Yellow Stuff Pads. 250 kms old. Rear has Slotted Rotors with Forza racing pads. 100 kms old. Wheels are Rota P45R. Not dent or buckling in the rim. No gutter rash, just paint chips on the outer lip on the rims. Fronts are 10” wide, rears are 12” wide. Currently have Kumho Ecsta Hard Racing Slicks with about 50% life remaining on the rears and 70% on the fronts. Engine Management. Link G4 ECU, with unlocked tune. There is a flex fuel sensor so you can tune on P98 without problems. Currently only has an E85 tune on it. There is provision for 3 standalone tunes. Interior. Interior carpet and sets have been stripped. Full Roll Cage, after market momo steering wheel, Genuine Sparco Seat (from Italy) and Genuine Takata Drift Harness. Drift handbrake. Chassis & Body. Car has never been in an accident on the race track. Car has been stiffened with four braces. Body is as expected for a 25 yr. old car (no dents). Rear qtr. of car has a wide body kit on it from Japan. General Info. Car has had a full service which included ALL filters and ALL Fluids 7 Months ago. Car has done one track day since then to verify the new tune with updated head, Car has been tuned by reputable skyline tuner in Brisbane. Car has absolutely no issues, it will do full track days without any problems, no overheating, the car is very reliable.
  5. Seems like just unburnt fuel in the cylinder from cranking over a few times unsuccessfully. No smoke or anything just a very loud pop from out the exhaust...didn't sound like it emanated from the engine bay
  6. I just tried to start my car after almost 4 months, battery voltage was low and fuel pump primed but wouldn't crank over but heard a loud pop like a gunshot and then battery completely died. I tried to get it to crank over several times. I Replaced the battery and it started up fine. Should i be concerned about the loud pop noise? I can't drive the car due to it being a unregistered track car to see if there is an issue but as i mentioned it seems to idle fine.
  7. What is the best course of action to prevent it overheating? Radiator has been upgraded to a koyorad 6 months ago. My goal is to be able to do 20 mins of solid driving on the track without overheating. Note the car is a dedicated track car RB20det with 380rwhp. Has all the modifications to suit.
  8. It overflowed on the straight because the ecu cut cylinders/dropped the max allowable revs. Assuming it overflowed when that happened. Doesn't really smell like coolant but it's hard to tell with the smell of the E85
  9. Reservoir is fine, cap is also fine. I let the car warm up and the exhaust is whitish, which indicates head gasket on the way out? Car does run on E85 Oil colour is fine, not milky or anything
  10. Hi all, During a track day I have noticed coolant under the reservoir (it pools and runs down near the battery tray and onto the ground). Is there some kind of relief under there when the coolant gets hot? The cold coolant level is between the min/max, obviously when the coolant gets hot the level rises. In this case it's sits just above the max level. I have previously not kept track of the coolant levels, is the leak and the location of the leak something of major concern? **Noting that the car isn't overheating at the moment Thanks
  11. Hi all, I want to increase negative camber and have KKR camber arms installed on my R32. Before I give this a crack, how to you adjust these to give more negative camber?
  12. New rubber
  13. I'll give the castor rods a go and get an alignment done. Just looked on the hard race website, which of the below is best?
  14. +20 offset on the fronts, Taking a closer look the wheel alignment is way out
  15. When you say may not fix the problem, I am assuming even with xx degrees of castor I will never get full lock without rubbing?