YawRate

The R33 is now sold. Thanks to everyone who saw the post and got it touch.

If anybody is in the market for an R33, or knows somebody else who is, have a look at the below link. I have it in my head that I would like to sell it to a skyline enthusiast, hopefully someone local will fit the bill. Thanks

1998 R33 GTST Series 2 40th Anniversary Unfortunately the time has come to sell my R33. It has been a reliable daily drive for the last 8 years and has never let me down, hopefully I can find a new owner that will continue to look after it moving forward. The basics: May 1998 build, imported in 2005 192,xxx kms Located in Canberra $9,600 The driveline is fairly stock, it’s never been seen a track, and for what it’s worth I drive like grandma. It has never used any oil, never fouled a spark plug, never missed a cold start, etc. It's even fairly fuel efficient (10L/per 100kms if you drive like me haha): OEM Turbo OEM ECU OEM R34 SMIC Full turbo back exhaust, consisting of: Stainless bellmouth front/dump pipe 100CPI Cat Trust Power Extreme II Catback- with the centre muffler deleted... I'm biased but it sounds excellent Apexi SAFC Neo- Tuned making 197rwkW at 0.8bar with a Turbosmart boost tee Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch Splitfire Coilpacks Engine oil has been changed every 5,000kms without fail The gearbox and diff oil was last changed 25,000kms ago Other parts on the car of interest: Tein Street Advance Coilovers DBA 4000 Brake Rotors Rota wheels 18x9.5+27 all round Federal tyres, 235 front and 265 rear Apexi Pod Filter- In an enclosure OEM 4 door front fog/indicator lights OEM GTR rear wing Apexi RSM with the G-sensor Oil pressure, Oil temperature, Boost pressure, and Water temperature gauges Having owned the car for so long, just about every serviceable component has been replaced during my ownership. So every vacuum and coolant line in the engine bay, every gasket, the thermostat, the thermostat housing, the radiator, all the tie rods, the rear main seal, the clutch slave cylinder, etc. etc. etc. If I was keeping it, the control arm bushes would be next, and so on, and so on.... My point is, this has never been a heavily modified car, the priority has always been bullet proof reliability for daily driving. In that regard I could not fault the car, ever. Being a daily driven car, it has to be said, this is definitely not a concourse condition car. There are paint defects, and it has experienced a few inconsiderate people in car parks over the years. What I can say however is that all the paint, and all the clear coat is intact, so it still cleans up fine. Hopefully this is demonstrated in the below pictures. There are a few bad points with the car, which I’m happy to disclose up front: The tacho has failed. I’ve been hesitant to replace the whole cluster as its original to the car, and given how many imports have been wound back, I don’t want to be seen as doing anything dodgy. I use the Apexi RSM for a tacho if required. The drivers seat bolster is ripped All the tyres are camber worn on the inside edges The registration expires in around a month. Although I’m happy to discuss selling it with a pink slip with any prospective buyers Hopefully I can find somebody who is passionate about these cars, who is aware of how this R33 GTST differs from the average example you see on the street. I’m happy to answer any questions that people have, please post them below or send me a PM. Thanks for reading.

Hopefully I don't derail the thread, but where are some of these cars being advertised exactly? I check SAU/Carsales/Gumtree regularly, but am I missing a trick by not using Facebook? Don't worry OP, I'm not looking to steal that N1 away from you, but I am interested to see what 50k+ of R33 buys you (page 6).

I had access to a decent camera for the first time, so I had a go, despite my shaky hands and lack of photography skills...

Reading through your posts Kinkstaah, you mention the boost as 17, 20 and 22psi through the first 3 gears, what is it in 4th and 5th? Or did my reading comprehension let me down? Without getting technical, I assume you're confident that the car isn't just traction limited in the lower gears? That would be the 100% simplest explanation but I didn't see it mentioned in your previous posts. Or slippage somewhere else in the driveline? Even if the mechanical engine load is absolutely identical through the gears (unlikely even with perfect traction, level road etc.), remember that the aerodynamic load will be higher in the higher gears Depending on what you list the boost as in 4/5th gear, I don't think what your observing wouldn't necessarily be an "issue". For example, nobody has yet touched on the different locations that you are reading the intake pressure from vs where the wastegate pressure is being observed from, and I'd guess one is reading static pressure, the other total pressure (static + velocity pressure). What I'm getting at is its possible that the difference in airflow through the engine (what actually matters) in different gears might be hardly varying, yet producing noticeably different pressure readings.

I wish, they're a Rota P1-R. I definitely wanted front dish, but with the Gtst's narrow guards and "lumpy" front caliper, I wasn't sure if an D9R would clear at the front in a 9.5 wide rim. The +12 offset may have cleared? But then I may as well have got a 18x10+18 XD9 with the amount of guard work/camber that would have been required. If it turns out that the D9R clears the front caliper in a 18x9.5+23, that will become an incredibly popular wheel choice for Gtst's in the year to come, for sure.

In case the thousand white Series 2 GTST's posted previously wasn't enough...

Thanks mate. I looked over the pictures of your white GTST in detail, your contributions to this thread are as helpful as anyones. I haven't conidered the stanley knife option, I think the isue will be that the spot that rubs is the exact location of the wiring, and the whole idea of having them is to protect that spot haha. Its not the end of the world either way, I just wanted to list everything out for other peoples information so they can make informed decisions. On that.... the other point I should have listed is that +27 is probably as high at offset as I'd be wiling to go at the front for a 9.5 rim. I found a few examples of people running 9.5+30, but given I have 3mm of clerance to the UCA at full lock, I'd say +30 would be to close for comfort. Obviously this would be dependant on the exact details of the steering geometry and even the amount of play you have in our steering rack...

Given the hours of research I did reading this thread prior to purchasing them, I think its only fair I post up a few pictures of my new wheels, it might be of use to someone else in the future. They are 18x9.5+27 all round. 235/40/18 at the front and 265/35/18 at the rear. The height is the minimum on a set of Tein Street Advance, I rolled all the guards (probably more aggresively than I needed to), and the front inner splash guards are removed. I have left the plastic splash guards in that sit over/behind the front wheels. I was gonna remove them, but wussed out when I saw the wiring in behind the right front. As a result it does rub the plastic on right side at full lock, where there is a bulge over the wiring itself. Also rubs the plastic splash guards at the final few millimetres of front suspension travel, ie. going over a very aggresive bump. I think I'll try moulding the splash guard with a heat gun as the next step. Raising the car up slighty would fix it too, as would a slightly lower profile tyre. Excuse my hopeless photography skills, and cosmetically flawed car. I washed it a half hour prior to the photos but it rained heavily on the way... typical haha.

If anyone has a steering wheel for a R33 Gtst S2 (s15 is the same I think) I'd be keen. Doesn't have to be immaculate. Having all the stitched seams intact is the main thing.

I'm with DVS32R, I thought when in "open loop", the signal from the o2 sensor is being ignored, therefore it shouldn't be the culprit. For reference, an open loop control system is one without feedback, the outputs a direct function of the inputs. A closed loop control system is one with feedback, the outputs a function of the inputs and the feedback. In the case of the skylines ECU the injectors outputs (amongst other outputs) are subject to the o2 sensor signal (feedback), but only when its running closed loop, ie. at low engine loads and not on cold start enrichment as far I understand.

I'm not going to attempt to diagnose your cars issue (if there is one at all), but for reference, I have recently hooked up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge into my car (also a S2 R33), and its pretty clear now that the stock gauge doesn't really have a clue whats actually going on. Specifically, my stock gauge only seems accurate +-2BAR (ie. inaccurate), and is very, very unresponsive.

Do you still have the radiator mentioned above?

Car/Engine: 1998 Series II R33. RB25DET. Pretty stock, enclosed pod, exhaust, and a manual boost controller set at 0.6 BAR. Petrol of Choice: Usually BP Ultimate, although also Shell V-Power when convenient. My preference is BP Ultimate, but logically the differences I 'observe' between the two is likely a placebo effect. $ Per Tank: I never fill it past halfway, typically something like 25 litres @ $35. Interestingly V-power is always around 8-9c cheaper than BP ultimate near my work. KM Per Tank: The average for the first 4000kms of ownership is 13.5l/100km, which I calculated using a spreadsheet in which I've logged all the kms, provided the tank is 65 litres (is it?) that would be 480kms a tank. Comments: For the most part I drive the car in a fuel efficient manner: I only ever half fuel the car to save weight, I only occasionally hit full boost, and very rarely rev anywhere near 7000rpm, (Although these last two are consequences of a short drive to work in which the oil temperature only reaches steady state as I'm arriving) I also use very light throttle applications so that there is insufficient load to spool the turbo, I'm always looking miles ahead in traffic so that I rarely come to a complete stand still, etc. etc. I'm currently looking for a good deal on a used SAFC (PM if you have one......), I think there is scope for its to pay for itself through fuel savings in a reasonable time-frame, and even a small performance increase I would see as a bonus. Tip: Use your boost gauge as an 'economy' gauge, the closer you are to -1 BAR gauge pressure (0 BAR absolute pressure) on the intake, the better, obviously.