bj0rn

alright something to think about. cheers.

yeah at the moment 18psi, stock motor, disco, 270rwhp. the other idea was to stay garrett and go up to a 3076. you reckon the stock cams will limit it regardless of what turbo?

as above, around 18-98 on pump 98 fuel. unopened so yeah stock cams. e85 is only available at a couple pumps in perth so im not really looking to go down that route. my old car did 119-120mph passes id be pretty happy with that haha. 350rwhp would be nice, so whats that around 280rwkw or there abouts? makes 270rwhp on a disco pot at the moment and 110mph. and yes will be external gate.

thanks for the reply mate. i was looking at either the r595 or r545 for an unopened sr on 98 with around 18-20psi down its throat. i like the 59/59 r595 wheel match a bit better than the 54/59 r545, but it would be fairly laggy id imagine.

awesome! ive been keeping an eye on these, youre right about data being thin on the ground. really good results too. what were the other cars and model of mp that 'just worked'?

yeh i know the front pipe is likely the problem, i said that i'll get it fixed in the last post (i.e a new one made up). is there any benefit of having a 3.5" front pipe, if the outlet of the dump is only 69mm ? heres a pic of the dump

ok guys got under it today, hks dump ID - just under 69 mm dodgy tasmanian backyard exhaust ID - 59mm plus the welds are f**ked on the inside so i guess that would choke it a bit more. ill get it fixed and retuned as soon as i can. one final question, would it be worthwhile losing one of the mufflers while i get a new front pipe made? i actually enjoy how quiet it is, but i dont really have any idea of how much power they leach.

the hks dump bolts to the factory exhaust flange, then after the flange it goes to 3". i agree it looks dodgey so what i'll do is unbolt the flange, take an ID reading off both the dump flange and front pipe flange and report back

nismoid: funnily enough, its only 2.5" where the hks dump flange meets the front pipe. and its only that small for about an inch, then immediatgoes to 3 inch. it has a hollowed out cat, then two mufflers. are you sure it'd be the exhaust? heres a photo; harey: the intake has wire which stops it from flexing. im fairly positive thats not the issue.

yeah i was thinking just simply dropping the pipes and taking it for a thrash was generally a bad idea. cheers for your help

yes i know there are no afr's on the dyno readout, i'm pretty sure if the restriction is the exhaust and i remove it, theres a definite possibility it may go pop ?

ok, forgive me if this is a stupid question but would dropping the exhaust affect my afr's ? possibly lean it out quite a bit ? heres the dyno sheet

well, i realise dyno's are only a means of measurement, but i'm convinced that my setup has seemingly less power than almost everybody elses thats similar, so im just trying to figure out what the restriction could possibly be. here's a list of what's been done: unopened s1 rb25det ems stinger ecu hks gt2835 pro-s 3" flexi pipe intake hose nismo 740cc injectors walbro pump hybrid cooler stock coils exhaust that goes from 2.5" to 3", 2 mufflers no cat 18psi - 315rwhp 13.1 @ 109mph on 205 rubber compression test came up as 150psi across all 6 cylinders it holds boost through to redline, and im assuming the coilpacks are working as it doesnt miss. it has a stock fuel pressure regulator. the most obvious thing i can think of is either the exhaust is restricting it, or my tuner isn't putting any timing into it? any thoughts please punt them at me cheers in advance

ok i've completely made an error, i hooked up the fuel pressure gauge in the wrong place. rookie mistake. it reads a 40psi at idle & 44psi (stock is 36 / 44 i think) with the vacuum hose disconnected. however, it doesnt increase with revs like it should. the dampner after the pump must be a bit f**ked as well because its not a steady flow. the needle jumps around a fair bit. i'll look for the vac line to the ecu and trace it. otherwise i'll call my tuner tomorrow and see if he can play with the ems. will report back when i find out what it is. any other ideas are more than welcome though

yep same conditions. im not too sure how i'd go about connecting the ems to an obd. i dont have one i dont think i have access to one either. its map sensored not afm. its running on bp98 and always has been. only started happening recently. has been tuned and was running just dandy for a few months up until the other day.

s1 rb25 with a walbro intank, nismo 740cc's, ems stinger map sensored. can hear the fuel pump priming, starts fine, warms up fine. when warm, idle drops as per usual and still goes smoothly. then driving, you'll clutch in and it'll just die. it still gets on boost fine, doesnt hesitate or miss either. just when you slow down and clutch in it'll die then be a prick to start again. might take a minute or two to get started. it also happens if you just give it a stab of the throttle. things i've checked/done -new plugs -swapped coils -new fuel filter -swapped fuel pressure regulator i put a fuel pressure gauge in before the FPR, was reading at 175kpa at idle, dropped down a bit at ~3k revs and then died as soon as i let off the throttle. so i replaced the fpr and it went to a fairly constant 200kpa on idle. still dies after throttle though. with the vac line disconnected from the fpr it drops to 180kpa. doesnt appear as if there are any vac leaks either. suggestions? dying fuel pump? leaky injector/injector jammed open?

just wondering if someone could double check these for a r33 series 1 motor. i dont have a skyline so i cant give a vin number to the nissan parts section. rear main ? Manifold Gasket 14036 21U00 ex man studs 0115100471

didnt think there'd be this much interest in it to be honest. sold & gone guys thanks for that jamie i hope you enjoy it.

located in perth will post if buyer pays whole amount. i have my turbo up for sale. i bought it second hand so i dont know who built it, i have replaced it with a propper upgrade. full boost just after 4k, but i did find that when i removed it i was missing 2 exhaust manifold studs and as a result had an exhaust leak on cyl 1 & 6. so i dont know what it'd be like on your car. better than mine i presume. - made just under 270rwhp @ 1 bar on the ovaboost dyno with a safe tune. - steel wheels - OP6 rear housing straight bolt on for rb25. stock dump stock lines all bolt up no worries. i'm not going to include the stock dump or lines incase i need to revert back to stock in the future. however, with that said i will include an aftermarket dump that has a screamer pipe. also; - 1 dump bolt has snapped (see pic) - hardly any shaft play. only a tiny bit of side to side. i dont know if this is normal for journal bearing. either way it never caused any problems, never blew smoke, functioned perfectly and was quite punchy compared to a stock turbo. $400. pm if you'd like to grab it.

got the kit 2nd hand, so no intake for me 3inch sounds like the go, cheers guys

its running an ems stinger, so map sensor. the afm is still there to keep it looking standard though.

i've just picked up a second hand hks gt2835 pro s and it has a 4 inch intake. i was wondering if its a silly idea to put a 4->3 inch reducer on and run the stock flexi-snorkle? space is a bit of an issue, it will be really difficult to get a 4 inch pipe in there, its not in a skyline.

fair enough mate. is there the option to pay a little more for the internal gate ? cheers for the reply anyway

hey mate. i'd be keen. gt3076r .82 internal gate ? pm me if this is possible.

hey nismoid, just out of interest, do you know how much faster would a 3071 spool compared to a 3076 ?