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WalkyHR31

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About WalkyHR31

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pymble NSW

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  • Car(s)
    HR31 GTS
  • Real Name
    Brett Gilles

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  1. I have full set of BC's in my HR31 Skyline that I use for street and track and they are great. Select the right spring rate and you have 32 position shock adjustment to get the right setting for street and track. Great pricing too.
  2. Yes that was option 1 but motor runs all stock gear - rods, oil pump, balancer, head, cams etc so wouldn't take too much more to reach breaking point! Anyway, already have 2 RB30 blocks, cranks, a head etc ready to go.
  3. Thanks good idea. I'll call a couple including CRD. Didn't think they would be too keen to discuss if I am building not them!
  4. Thanks guys, appreciate your input but was hoping to hear from someone who may actually have an RB30 turbo engined track car that they could tell me what boost they run, rev limit they use and its reliability etc.
  5. Thanks for that but 1. when you say stock I assume factory piston not forged and 2. what boost did this engine run? 3. Could this have been a tuning issue with a standard piston rather than the supposed Rod:Bore ratio problem? I suppose hard to know.
  6. Hi Guys, I currently run and HR31 with RB25DET making 270 RwKw. Had my engine builder do the bottom end and I did the rest. Great engine and been running it for last 6 years at the track and roll racing without any dramas. Runs 20 psi boost no problem and revs to 7500 RPM still making power. Spends a lot of time in the 5000-7500 range as I do a lot of track days etc. Rest of time just an odd w/e driver. Runs and R33 box and R200 LN diff with 3.7 gears. However, time for more torque and KW as sick of getting blown away at RR by HSV's (S/c of course) and Datto 1200's etc!! Have been planning an RB30/25 for some time now and finally went to my engine builder this week with all the parts to get started. He depressed me by telling me that the RB30 is not the engine to turbo due the high Rod:Bore ratio meaning it will sit too long at TDC and under high boost melt/break pistons etc. Says a 3.4 stroker will work Ok but not interested in that as too expensive and car won't handle it. Will be using good forged rods and pistons and crank collar.. Never heard of this being a problem before as there are heaps of these RB30 engines around making awesome power. This will be more a track engine than road so will see high RPM (max 7000). Looking at making around 330-350 Kw at the wheels at 20 psi. I am not a drifter and rarely hit the limiter. So my query: is this Rod:Bore ratio a problem or not? What has been other's experience with this combo using it for track work/roll racing etc? Thanks guys.
  7. Thanks for that. Tried a few wreckers over past 6 months and All Z Parts but no luck so far. 3.7 would be a bit tall I think although I am slowly building an RB30/25 to replace my Rb25. But 4.375 to 3.7 is a big difference. My diff man told me if bolts smaller dia they would drill out CW to take my bigger size or if bigger than mine use spacers as you suggested so either way should work. Stll prefer 3.9 if someone has them or knows where a set are.
  8. Wanting 3.9 gear set for my HR31 LN diff. Diff in good cond so only need the gears. Currently has standard 4.375 gear set with LSD plate clutches which is too short for track work. Would consider diff swap if your diff in good condition and not viscious LSD. If so, can test drive mine. Am in SYD.
  9. Guys, I have been watching this thread for a long time and want to add my 2 cents worth. I have been running A1RM pads in my HR31 Skyline for 6 years now for both track and street use. They are the best value for money you can buy. They stop every time with no fade even after 6 hard laps at WP (1.12's) and work from go on the street even on the coldest Winter's morning. They don't wear the rotors, give off minimum dust and last a long time (I get up to 8-10 track days of 30-40 laps each from a set but admittedly my pads are 16mm thick material made to fit my VL Harrop 4 pot race calipers with HSV 330x28 mm rotors). I have them made specially to fit my calipers but they still only cost $110 a set. Standard R32/R33 pads off the shelf cost $88 where I get them. You can't beat that for value. I have used Ferrodo DS3000's ($300 a set years ago) and they ate the rotors, didn't work when cold and left mountains of dust but did bite bit better then A1RM's. Currently trying Ferrodo DS11 pads that I bought years ago and never used, which seem to be identical in performance to A1RM's but cost 3 times as much. I use the standard HR31 master cylinder and slotted DBA 4000 rotors and all works very well. I run QFM Super X street pads on the rear with R32 GTR twin pot calipers and standard rotors, which have never been machined as no wear. Haven't had to change them in 4 years but when I do will fit A1RM ($88 a set). Hope that helps.
  10. Guys, I'll join this discussion and recommend A1RM's to all. I have a quick HR31 that I use for weekend fun and track days. Runs a 340Kw RB25 and I have been using A1RM's for 5 years now, They are the best value for money I have found. They work extremely well on the street from cold and on the track when very hot. They never fade, even after 8 hard laps of WP and are very kind to rotors (have had one set of DB4000 rotors for the last 4 years). I have them made for my Harrop 4 pot front calipers by QFM, they are a nice 20 mm thick pad and cost me $88 a set (costs no more to get them made specially irrespective of thickness). The current set I have had in the car for 18 months have done at least 6 track days and are about 1/2 worn. I used DS3000's before these and while they bite a bit better, they cost 3-4 times more, are useless when cold, chew out rotors and wear twice as fast! I also use Nulon Super DOT4 fluid ($10 a bottle) that I change every 6 months and never lets me down, for what its worth. Hope that helps those trying to decide what to buy. Give them a try - its only $88 for a set of DB1170's or DB 1220's to do so if you know where to go.
  11. Yes, it is but that's a good explanation. All the dots on the cam wheels and crank wheel line up with their covers and I have done this many times without a problem. Remember, this only happened after the engine had been running for some months so I assume if it was anything like that it would have made itself apparent the moment I started the engine when I first installed it and if I hold the revs at a constant level (e.g. 3000 RPM) then the noise goes away so I don't think it could be that as any interference would be there whilst the VCT is activated irrespective of the throttle position. It's only there on throttle open (revs building) and throttle close (revs reducing) so its got ot be something to do with the VCT unit. If only I could find out how it works internally I may be able to solve it but I can't find anything on that.
  12. So I've had a look at the SAU thread on gates timing belt problems and it isn't any of that. I put this gates belt on 5 months ago and had no noise issues at all. The loud whirring noise I am experiencing only started a couple of weeks ago and only occurs when the VCT is activated as I explained in my first post, so can't see how that would have anything to do with the belt, which I have retensioned each time I separately changed the 3 VCT units, tensioner, idler etc to test (about 6 changes). This is driving me mad....Grrrr!!
  13. Have already taken the front cam cap off and checked the two holes in the cam and bolt and all clear. Can't imagine why it would be an oil issue but something is not working right and making the noise. If I could only find out how the internals of the VCT unit work I may be able to work out the problem. I have Googled it but can only find info on what makes it work (oil pressure) and what it does (advances cam) but not how the internals work. The guy I left one of my spare units with to try and dismantle it hasn't done it as yet and doesn't even know if he can disassemble it. I have the Nissan Factory RB engine manual (480 pages) but it doesn't go into any of that, just how to take it off and put it back on the cam. Any ideas on that or where I could find any info? Thanks for your help with this.
  14. Yes, definitely installed correctly as per your description as I have done it many times. The noise appears to be coming from the gear as I have run it with the timing cover off and the cam cover off too. Timing belt is a new Gates blue racing belt. Does not run a mechanical water pump but a DC EWP so that's not it. Tried changing tensioner and idler with spares I have and that's not it either. Engine has been in the car for 9 months and done 5000 K's so not something I have just installed. What I haven't done as yet is checked the actual delivery of oil to the unit thru the bolt hole although the solenoid is working OK. My next step would be to take the cover off the VCT unit and crank the engine over with the solenoid open to see what sort of oil delivery there is to the unit. I feel it has to be something to do with the operation of the VCT as it is the same noise when I try all 3 units that I have. What do you think?
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