S3RK

Yeah exactly what I thought... But for some odd reason the tutorial on here says otherwise Should I keep trying that way? I did try for a bit but found nothing I tried even gave a little bit of play. As I previously stated as well, no fluid coming out of the master bleeder nipple when it was completely removed

Also I must note, I removed the bleed nipple from the master and NO fluid came out, is it plugged up? I originally was getting little dribbles of fluid from it, but nothing big.

Hi Guys, Yesterday I decided to bleed my clutch as lately it's been REALLY difficult to get into 1st gear on a cold start (new clutch?). Gradually driving for about 5 minutes it gets much easier until it goes to normal. I was following a guide on here that states, bleed just the slave if there's already fluid in the lines/master. OPEN nipple on slave, press clutch all the way in and hold, Tighten nipple, release clutch, repeat. But after the first push, the peddle refused to return. After that I tried everything to try and get some feel in the clutch. Started from the master (near to no fluid came out), then down to the dampner, where 2 pumps poured fluid out, then none after that, and back to the slave, where again, nothing came out. The fluid level was on max at all times, I haven't seen ANY leaks at all. There's still no play in the clutch at all. I've tried bleeding it by pushing the clutch fork towards the slave and holding, cracking the nipple, then tighten and release. Still nothing. Any ideas guys?

Spotted Bayside blue R34 vspec on narellan road, cruising side by side at 5am. What more could you ask for at that time of the morning

Replaced dead starter motor, and washed the car, I'm ready

Just a heads up, SSC (Sydney Supra Club) and SCC (Sydney Corolla Club) are also going through mac pass on Sunday

So I done as posted above, except I couldn't open up the solenoid to release the fork and actually open the entire thing up, instead I WD40'd the shit out of everything and blew it out with air, thick black gunk was coming out (WD40 infused clutch dust). Lightly sanded the commutator fins with 1500grit as they were fairly black (no contact = no good), so they were nice and gold. I also noticed one of those fins was half missing/damaged, but there's 30 odd of the them so it should be fine. Stuck it all back in, and started like brand new. A very strong kick with no whistling sounds, or any odd sounds for that matter. I greatly appreciate everyone's help on this one

Almost got it all apart, where should the ball bearing be? Because when I took out the core, the ball bearing was stuck to the inner side wall I will post results when it's all back in

I see, I'll give it a go tonight, what should I use to lubricate it?

Hmm, but why would spark plugs cause a really slow crank? Just purchased a reconditioned starter off eBay, delivered next week. We shall see how I go.

Will give it a go, I tried starting it again yesterday and it was really struggling to kick over and very slow.

A 25DET one is the same, yes?

Just gave the starter motor a good whack or six, and what do you know? It starts. Does this mean time to replace?

Many people have this, there's a thread on how to clean your AAC valve, doing that SHOULD fix it. Mine has been doing it for over 6 months now, as snail said above, just blip the throttle (manually running the car 'rich').

Hi guys, Lately (in the past month), my car has been having a bit of struggles starting, at first it was struggling to kick over, I immediately thought my battery, which I replaced with a mates used one, temporarily fixing the problem, only to be coming back slowly. Last week I was out, I tried to start the car and it was turning over VERY slowly, waited literally 3-4 seconds, tried again, and started, wtf? Not only that, my battery voltage reading is 14.2v when running (alternator is charging), usually dropping down to 9.0v when cranking over (as normal). Also I believe my A/C compressor is having problems, weird whistling sound when it does start and tones down fairly quickly. Also hear a similar sound when I turn the A/C on. Tonight, prior to going out, the car started, with a LITTLE bit of struggle. Then when I tried to start it later on, NOTHING, no crank, no clicking, nothing at all. I had to clutch start it. When I got home I started diagnosing, I get reds, reading solid 12.0v on the meter, strangely enough though, only drops down to 11.2v when I go to crank it, the cat sensor light comes on, but that's also normal. Checked a few fuses, they seemed fine. Tried jump starting it, still gives me nothing. Jacked up the front end, it's on stands now, only had a very brief look-around at the starter motor, there doesn't appear to be any moisture, and all cables are plugged in. Any thoughts? I strongly believe it is something electronic, as I'd get SOME response from the starter if it was effd. Relay? Wiring? Should I start taking apart the dash and shit? Could the starter be shorted out somehow? Dust build-up? I don't know. Really appreciate the help, if you have ANY information at all, please reply!

Out of those 2, I'd bring the GTR

Just gonna bring my deck chair and eat outside!

I meant just a confirmed "coming" list in general, never mind, too much effort anyway

Should there be a list of confirmed members? I'm coming.

Just because deaths have fallen since the ban doesn't mean it's directly related to the restrictions, how many of those p plater deaths prior to ban were actually turbo'd? Who knows... They just put all these statistics in everyone's heads to make it sound like turbo's are killers, when in reality, they're more cops on the road, technology of cars increases over the years providing much safer cars, plus all the other factors in "p plater deaths". GTS = gay brakes. GTST = much better brakes. Which one will stop quicker? Well OBVIOUSLY the GTS, because it's not "powerful" enough to reach those ridiculous speeds. /sarcasm I say, from a Green P plater (almost fulls) point of view, green p platers should be able to drive 130kw/t turbo's, do X amount of defensive driving courses and you can drive unrestricted. That's incentive for "hoons" to actually go and do a defensive driving course, because regardless of the car they're in, they gonna hoon. Then just hope they learn something from the courses. As with the added benefit of enthusiasts to also learn.

Thanks Terry! Yeah I will most likely not be attending this as I'll also be going to Lowdown!

link please! If there's an official cruise, I'll most likely attend that, otherwise this!

Definitely with depth of field! Now that I look at the video a day later, there is a bit too much movement. Usually I'm relaxed when taking pics/videos, but both my batteries were a lot lower than what I had thought, so everything was rushed without much consideration

Hey guys, Headed down to Wollongong today for a Sydney Car Cruises event, decided to get some footage. This is the 2nd car meet video I've attempted to make and publish. Let me know what you think! Kind Regards, Serk

If you really want to swap motors, drop in a DET. You can get away with turbo's so easily these days...