Duncan

I'd suggest having the engine builder listen to it, especially if they assembled it, and minimise how much you run it in the meantime. It may have a serious issue like a big end bearing from the description and I assume the rebuild was not cheap

Quite right, typing without checking, it is an 023 which was effectively the replacement for 040 (not that I could find either of them on the Bosch motorsport AU site), and it has a mesh inlet at the bottom of the pump rather than a separate filter

well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo

Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.

I should add....once you see the price you will want to go aftermarket splitfires, or even more extreme there are R35/Yaris/Audi etc kits available (require adapters, different looms etc)

You can check the correct part by putting your vin in at https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan, or post the vin here if you aren't clear on how that works

Hey Daniel, sorry to hear that and thanks for posting up for us at a really hard time I only knew SmoothLine through the forums, we never met as we are based in different states, but when he was most active on here he was quite a while back so not many of the current crowd might remember him. I am pretty sure he was active in the Queensland SQU club but that is defunct now too (times are changing and we are all getting older). Farewell SmoothLine!

My Fuga Hybrid is JDM, 2014 model but very similar to the V37 from the looks of things..same platform just physically larger and very comfortab;e

re the security system, my Fuga/Q70 has the factory option where the puddle lights in the mirrors turn on when the prox key is detected, it was clearly dealer fitted and has a switch in the lower dash to disable it....it didn't have remote start but TBH I don't really miss that, I had it in the Stagea originally but never used it....we don't often have to warm the car up in the snow before we get in for Australia. And the Fuga also has the illuminated footwells, sounds like a useless feature but I actually quite like the indirect light within the car, it was a nice addition

Welcome Gabriel, and thanks for saving one of the less famous cousins!

Yeah confirmed they are Nismo 555s, found the boxes in the spares with the factory injectors in. Yeah the AAC has been relocated to allow reuse of the factory brake booster line, and yes confirmed it has a 1 way valve in it. Unfortunately the one on the car is cracked, I'll need to replace it. Pretty sure I've got all the AAC plumbing correct in my previous post, but I am going to source some new fittings with 90o angles to help with the hose routing and also one really specific moulded shape for the AAC intake to cold start hose (will raid the back of our local repco when I get a chance and work out some combo that works) One of the big things I learned in the GTR is you need to be able to get your hands all around the bay when something goes wrong. I've done a bunch of re-routing now and it should be much more practical now. Also got the BOV mount re TIG-ed by the local engineering shop so that should be good to go now. Never got to the fuel pump because of some life stuff today, but will pull it to confirm it is suitable for 300rwkw when I get a chance

Thanks for the quick response mate, and I agree Nismo 555s, Z32 and high flow 2871 in OP6 housing (run by PowerFC) would all be "period correct" and should be a simple, reliable and reasonably quick track car.

It is normal for a speedo to read 0-10% high (unfortunately), intended by manufacturers and ADRs (although not in this case) to ensure your speedo does not read low if your tyres are worn. Speaking of which, what size tyres do you have on the rear, and what does they tyre placard say you should have? you can use this https://tiresize.com/calculator/ to determine what % difference that is causing Personally, when I buy tyres for a car I buy a size that will bring the speedo back to being more accurate; it if it reads 5% high I buy tyres that are 5% larger diameter. If you had an electronic speed sender like R33 onwards, the other option is to add a speedo adjuster but that won't work in R32. Finally, you might be able to find a different sized gear for the speedo sender but that will be limited to what already exists (and I don't know what sizes do)

OK...so dumb question to check....do the hi beams actually come on when the push the stalk to engage them (keeping in mind your headlight switch must be at ON as well)

I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better.

2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder. He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay) Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)

OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed

Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine

Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)

I'll send you a message, but until I know what is OK (and anything that isn't) its kind of hard to work out a fair price. BTW I'm just helping out here, ultimately it is Mel's call what she accepts but I know it will go sooner or later.

Did a coolant pressure test overnight and it was back at 0 by morning....after some stuffing around I worked out it was the water return fitting at the turbo that was leaking, it all held pressure correctly once that was nipped up. No brand mark on the radiator but I'd bet it is a 40mm cooling pro, with standard clutch and fan I do need to remember to change the water out for coolant once the engine is run in but otherwise cooling looks all good.

A few other things to round out the chassis mechanical checks. Diff is nice and full of new oil, pretty sure it is Castrol VMX (I run the same on Award's recommendation). I didn't pull the cover to check, but I'm 90% sure the diff centre is a nismo mechanical (old school, not the gt pro). Gearbox is also nice and full of fresh oil, not sure what it is but not redline. Tailshaft bearing looks OK and a tailshaft loop is in place

Front lower control arm is standard with new ball joints, tension rod looks like JJR spherical. Front upper control arm is standard with adjustable bushes in the outside end Rear arms are all nismo, surprisingly all the bushes at either end look standard but in good condition Subframe has standard bushes with lock collars HICAS has a lock bar with standard ball joints at the hub end

Next, shocks/springs/swaybars It has Sydneykid valved Bilsteins with HKS pillow ball hats all round. Springs are Eibach race springs on adjustable height platforms, with helper springs in the rear to stop rattling. These are 250 all around but easy to change for something else if required. Swaybars are powdercoated blue but would be Selby's/Whiteline solid adjustables, 21mm rear and 24mm front. Bushes and links in good condition All in good condition, no sign of leaks/damage etc

yeah for sure.....remember to put your tools away at the end of each day kids! Actually it has been kinda nice working on the car, lots of memories of good times. I can pretty much hear him telling me off for stuff still.