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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. And annoyingly, the IQ3 dash GPS is not available on the Haltech CAN, so you end up needing 2 GPS receivers
  2. And while we are collecting little annoyances here.....the notification emails now only include the first 100ish characters instead of the whole message now, which makes it much harder to quickly monitor posts, since I have to login to the site to see any remainder of the post
  3. Yeah apart from the quite different tone, rod big end bearings (most common failure) are noisier when cold (thicker oil, higher clearances) and noiser when you rev it (rod moves faster, failed bearing lets it move more), and the speed of the knock increases with revs too. It is quite a distinctive "gnomes with hammers inside your engine" noise
  4. Don't often get to say this about an rb, but that is definitely not a spun bearing. It will be some thin gauge steel rattling against something else. Maybe a loose turbo heat shield, the air/water lines or some other random bracket not attached properly. Not a big deal but you should get it sorted so whatever isn't meant to be rattling doesn't break. BTW I'm sure you're concerned....but 2 hours in the middle of the night was pretty early to bump the question!
  5. Stock 32GTR boost controller doesn't work with aftermarket ECUs, just went through this recently. You need to wire in a proper boost control solenoid
  6. don't worry about wear on a track tyre, nothing will last compared to a street tyre. You are heading out in summer for 20min sessions so you need a medium/hard or hard compound. Do you have a second set of rims or are they going on your dailies? I'd go cheapest 245/45/17 in the following order - Hankook z221, Yoko A050, Dunlop DZ03G, Kumho V70a, Bridgestone Re11s, Toyo 888R. There's a bunch of other ones but I don't know them and haven't seen them used seriously And let me know when, I'm just up the road and can drop by with some kitty litter for the oil down.
  7. Whether the interior loom is the same or not (probably is), that is unlikely to resolve the issue. Best suggestion might be to take it to an auto electrician and get them to sort it, but will cost somewhere between "a bit" and "heaps" because there will be lots of tracing involved. Alternatively if you have the time and patience to sort through it yourself, you need to get the R32 GTR workshop manual which includes the RB20 wiring diagrams and work through everything from the power supply circuits. The battery connection issue will have blown at least one fuse and sounds like it has also caused some issue with your key barrel or it's wiring (or possibly ECU fried, depending where you detected 6v)
  8. Great to see you coming back to a proper car
  9. couple of other options, rb25 stagea has an oil filter adapter that sits at a convenient angle, and has no oil cooler attached. also, rb30 had the oil filter direct to the block, so you could look for those fittings. Makes it a bit hard to get to the filter unless you do a relocation as well
  10. I'd start by swapping the front and rear sensors to see if the problem moves with the sensor (so replace it), or if it is the same (ie, there is a wiring or actual problem)
  11. The 350z ones are unlikely to fit. As well as diameter you need to consider offset of the disc (vertical distance from top of hat to rotor)
  12. Pretty common for that end of the CV to be stuck. I assume the rest of the shaft was separated when the engine was removed? There is a circlip + 30 years of rust to keep it in place. On the car, the best you can do is get a pair of pry bars behind it. Off the car, you should be able to get at everything to disassemble the retainer plate.
  13. I'll start by saying there are much cheaper ways to rally than buy and build your own car, especially if you aren't sure how committed you are to it or if budget is tight/not realistic. In order of cost 1. find a manufacturer or rich friend willing to give you a car. this is by far the cheapest way to do a rally, and some people do it this way 2. lease a car. something like the sirocco that chris gough leases is a safe/predictable way to see if you enjoy it and to learn the billion things that go into completing a tarmac rally without worrying about a car that might be tricky to drive (or expensive to replace) 3. buy someone else's proven, finished car that they don't have time/budget to race any more. generally because they now have kids. 4. build it yourself from scratch. this way you get to choose and keep the car but have to sort everything. Assuming you need to pay someone to do it (labour is probably 1/2 - 2/3 the cost), basic setup on something like a GTR or Evo 9 would be: Base car $x Prep car $54k Safety gear - Rollcage, seats, harnesses, kill switch, other general stuff like triangles, first aid, kitty litter etc) $10k Intercom, video cam, rallysafe $2k 2x sets of gear for driver and Nav $5k (+ licenses and OLT $1k for first time) Suspension $5k 18x10 forged wheels $5k (6x) Brakes (calipers, discs, lines, pads, fluid) $5k Engine / turbo rebuild (good idea for prep) $10k ECU $2k + wiring eg oil temp, dash? Other likely prep - clutch, oil coolers, radiator, hoses, potentially gearbox, 2x diffs, transfer case, all bushes, exhaust to meet regs $10k Consumables/ event costs $20k+ Tyres 6x ($3.5k) Fuel (1.5x tanks per day rally car + 1 tank per day crew) = $1.5k Accommodation & food (driver, nav, 1 crew/2 works better) $500pd x 8d (+before and after) = $4k Spirit return trip 2 vehicles 2 people $1.5k Event Photos/videos etc $1k Entry $8k Pace notes $0.5k Damage/repairs - somewhat in the crew's control.... $x + refresh after the event (fluids, brakes, anything else worn like clutch, engine/gearboxes/diffs/driveshafts/bearings/bushes) and you are ready to go again Yes, people do it cheaper, but others also do it way more expensive....BTW it was on my bucket list for a long time (along with racing at Bathurst) and I'm lucky enough to have done it 3 times now, even finished once (Kel is up to her 15th of course, Navigators, especially good ones, have it much cheaper). No regrets doing it but it costs a bomb.
  14. Good luck Justin from Texas. I imported a Titan and had to teach myself how to work on USDM cars. I have to say, apart from towing, I prefer JDM
  15. Thanks, that's much better than the Impul kitted one I was happy to not win. I'm sure it cost a bomb but not my style (plus the front bar fit was terrible for such a nice car and kit) I was more interested in whether that HKS 350z supercharger kit would fit though. Or maybe the stillen one would work better.
  16. well, I have done targa in both. My race/rally car is r32 gtr and I've race and rallied a leased evo 9 (targa tas and bathurst) Have you done any tarmac rallying before, do you think you'll do it more than once, and are you looking to lease or buy? If buy, keep in mind current purchase cost for a GTR is 50k+ and probably same again to prep for the first time and do the event. Evo probably half the price. BTW spoiler, the GTR is miles ahead more fun. The evo might be quicker, certainly easier to drive quick
  17. Almost certainly either the plug at the steering wheel is unplugged or the wiring to/from it is damaged. Basically, the airbag controller decides everything is OK by checking the resistance of each airbag. If the answer isn't in the range the computer expects it will flash the warning light.
  18. bolted to the airbox exit if you mean as standard
  19. Are you putting a 2jz in a 350z for a cheap project? 4th time this week, thanks skid factory.
  20. 3rd time this week. I blame the skid factory.
  21. What do you mean by low mileage? Has it been rebuilt, or does the odometer not show many klm (ie likely wound back)? By this age, it would be common to have worn valve stem seals. They tend to be noticeable when first driving after the car has been sitting a while (as oil from head gets past seal into cylinder while stationary). A compression test is the starting point to work out if you have an engine sealing problem. If there is, a leak down test can help tell you where the issue is. Turbo seals are generally not "a whiff", more like a wacky racers smoke screen
  22. I use amayama since they sell parts too https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h I do have fast installed and use it when I'm looking up a few things or checking things out, but with the way it works you need the "CDs" of the models you are interested in. If that is always the same car, no problems but it is a hassle if you are looking at a range of model years
  23. lol should have mentioned that was a required step glad it is sorted. check the thread on the end and remove any damaged thread if you need to (unless you happen to have 28mm die ow whatever size it is....)
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