Duncan

lol...nice offer and happily accepted! I might build a house then get foxtel connected though I've seen the long trailer for the production car races and they look pretty good BTW Mark, are you coming to the national sprint an Morgan Park next week?

arp just make fasteners, not engine components

A couple of categories in the NSW State Racing champs including production cars have picked up Tv coverage....first round (the wet one from 2 weeks ago) will be on in 2 weeks. Its on the new Speed channel on Foxtel....finally a reason to sign up! http://www.eponine.com.au/live/motorracing/NSWMRC_Promo.mov

omg been a while since anything of mine was spotted! were you undercover....a celica or something?

that was my understanding too. probably best to check with a scruitineer.

lol! surprise! no secret in my spring rates.....they are as soft as possible, and whatever gary decided they should be

ahh OK, we are in production touring, have to run tyres from the production car list. Bob Pearson's emo X was running dunlop soft DZ03G.....killed me by miles. production sports allows slicks right...so hand cut soft slicks are the go. expensive and they will probably go off before you use them. If you are allowed to run semi slicks buy a set of the dunlops, about $2400 for a set 235/45/17 check my youtube for footage from the race, it was terrible!

the interweb tells me direzza 036 is exactly the same as dz03g (local name). got some pics of the tyres? if so they are about the best tyres around

this can't be a spun bearing. haunted hills is in Vic.

lol I've got 1 whole day's experience with wet racing....so here's my tips (very wet, not just damp) run no camber at all....you will never get the car to roll up onto a tyre anyway. toe in would be nice too. run heaps of pressure in the tyres. I was running 2 psi more cold than my usual hot target for those tyres before they starting working at all. didn't get to soften the springs or shocks because they aren't adjustable on my car. don't bother with a racing line, you won't go any faster no matter which part of the track you run on. just hug the inside, about 1 foot in to miss any puddles at the edge of the ripple strip. and have good tyres. the guys on dunlop softs were 11sec a lap quicker.

I've got a set of slicks for sale. 2x Falken slicks, 240/610/17 about 50% worn, but old. Only good for another day or 2. 2x Kumho slicks, 240/610/17 used once, in excellent condition. $500ea new. I was running them on 17x8 rims on a GTR, they were a little small but worked fine. Also fine for evo/sti etc etc Pick up only in sydney, $750.

I have always used "any old auto trans fluid". No name in the stagea, transmax z in the race car. The resoviour in the boot and the xfer case are not linked....so hopefully what you noticed is a co-incidence. And yes, you should flush everything out of the xfer case!

meh...I'd still take a stagea every time 99% daily driver, capable but not perfect for the 1% towing. Easy to work on and cheap to modify if you are so inclined. Mine has been fine chasis wise, I've been towing with it for years. Only thing I still need to do is heavier rear springs.

pretty sure it was the aussie delivered models that came with the diff cooler, not n1s. n1 came with an oil cooler *edit* sorry transfer case cooler, not diff. here is the only info I have (from the aussie gtr service manual)

stu is your car going to be ready? It was in bits on a hoist yesterday

what would you know about motorkhanas mr "2010 Australian Motorkhana Champion"??

re ebay tools.....I look at it the same as a lot of things on ebay. If you are certain what you are buying is the same and genuine, buy it on there and enjoy the savings. eg you see a kincrome spanner set and you have cross checked the prices. But I would always stay away from unbranded or potentially non-genuine brand tools because I value my knucles too much. The only other consideration for me is warranty. When you are buying something and you know warranty wont matter (ie the item is too cheap to bother, or not important enough), go for it. But if you might need it fixed, buy in Oz from a proper shop that you know will honour the warranty. In this case the extra you pay is just for knowing that warranty will exist if you ever need it.

it can still be used. an 044 is a little large to easily fit in the cradle, and you will have issues getting the pick up low enough....but it can be done

no it was definately just scanned by some very dedicated enthusiast (3000 pages in front of a scanner!). You can't copy the little picture words, they are just bitmaps. I've got no problem sending out a copy or 2 but can't upload or host it. BTW please no-one ever pay an ebay-er for a copy of this or other workshop manuals. They are selling copies of manuals they stole, and their cost is a CD + postage, pretty low if you ask me. Just ask on here, someone will contact you, quite a few people have lots of them.

sorry a little late....and I have nfi what the rear pads are, they have been in for years. they are a little more aggressive than front because I am an idiot and like a tail that swings a little under brakes

yeah that, and they are a fair bit lighter with the aluminium hat. project mu might be good but they are dear as poison. dba4000 or rda for street/light track. dba5000 for track. anything else if you are a brake whore or have too much money.

lol thanks for making mine look tidy matt

yeah mate it is on it's way to you. 345MB and 3000pages. not surprised no-one wants to turn the little funny pictures into real words. most of it seems to be repeated info for different engines and models so we could probably just get the bits we need done.

hmm that's just a matter of apinion :|

profec B has power to the solenoid all the time, and pulses the earth to control the solenoid. so....if the wire from the controller is damaged and is earthed, it will not short out, it will just run max boost all the time. check for continutiy between chasis earth and the earth wire to the solenoid.