Duncan

can still be a wear issue if the fronts are less worn than the rears. that's why its worth taking a few minutes to swap them around

fark that dino-line is quick....that's among the quickest gtst's I know of around there already. any spins, disco-stu?

yikes. that is a lot harder than a momentary switch! I'm sure you know what you are doing.....but won't this all work backwards if someone presses the button on the controller as well? At least until you press it again.

about bloody time!

yeah the second fuel I put in was mobil 8000 from the one in Kellyville. I'm now running vpower from the shell on vic rd at west ryde with no problems.

jeebus! pics of the frame and suspension with clothes off thanks!

k10 march/micra came like this: base model super turbo be-1 pao figaro all the same chasis and MAxxE(T) motors. K11....we got these Also they produced other different bodies (no pics from me) Viewt Super March Tango Collet Bollero Rumba Juke Polka Box k12...got these too Also came in Bollero Rafeet C+C those guys are not just giggling....they are on drugs

I'm guessing you don't mean the crappy blue breather! Great work again from Craved Coatings on the cover... I picked up the cover on SAU, it was hand sprayed from a can. Craved sand blasted then powder coated in in crinkle finish black - looks mint

yes tht second pic is the bit i mean. there is a nylon socket in there which wears badly. In my experience that is always more worn than the tie rod end

no idea about fuel economy yet....my foot has been pretty heavy, double points or not. because its hard not to laugh every time it comes on boost too_much_boost, I've run mine up on 2wd dynos with no front drive shaft often....no obvious issue and I don't see how there would be. Yes 4wd will probably be trying hard (attessa wheelspin vs g sensor arguments can wait for another thread) but a flange spinning hard with no wheels attached is no big deal.

hmmm at least it has been found at last. pretty ballsy to be driving it around so long after stealing it. is it your's now or the insurance companies?

I suspect you can't change the slow speed handling much without dramatic changes.....try driving style instead. turismo is probably the right man to answer because he runs rings around me (not to mention he is the australia motorkhana champion)....but... clutch kicks to get the back around on entry! handbrake if necessary weight shift set up really early so the rear wants to break away. stay on the brakes to keep the weight on the front wheels so the thing turns in.

the first one are "pineapples", the second are proper subframe replacement bushes. Pineapples sit above or below the subframe on the bolt that locates it and lock it in place. THey can be effective in holding the whole thing right even when the bushes are stuffed. And they are damn easy to change compared to the subframe bushes. But....if you have access to a workshop you should change the actual bushes...its a better solution. Will probably take a couple of hours even with the right tools if nothing has been off the car before.

bit late....but this is spot on for Kumho v70A We used to run these as control tyres and they perform better at road tyre like pressure....we used to run between 42 and 44 hot pressure. In fact performance did not drop of hugely right up to 48-50psi. Very unusual but I can't argue with the lap times.

out of interest....did you try searching first? we have done this subject already this week http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ng-t316860.html

I've got the perfect event for you....khanacross! It is a slow/medium speed race based on grass/dirt. daewoo has a thread over here about it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ev...ce-t313298.html if you want to be more serious (not necessarily more fun....) super sprints are the next place to go. You would need to spend many thousands to get the r31 handling well and running quick on circuits (suspension/brakes/safety gear/engines). Or full circuit racing at 10s to 100s of thousands a year

btw its not on topic....but it shits me deeply..... vp102 at about $4 a litre meets the requirements for pump fuel but E85 at $1/l does not. CAMS are almost as bad as ANDRA who ban it outright (the ANDRA fuel committee is run by the WA distributor of VP race fuels....)

Duncan, check schedule G before you move to E85. It is not legal in production cars because it does not meet the requirements for "pump fuel": 2.1 Pump Fuel: A commercial fuel (as defined above) available for sale on demand from a roadside retail bowser outlet at each of at least five separate service stations in each of at least three Australian States. A mixture of Pump Fuels with the same hydrocarbon profile is permitted (eg, brands of ULP may be mixed; ethanol-blended fuels, ULP or diesel may not be mixed). It may however meet the requirements for "commercial fuel" if that is what your supersprint regs specify: 2. Commercial Fuel: Petrol, automotive diesel, liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or ethanol blended fuel, eg, “E85” (as defined below) produced by an oil company and available for commercial sale in all States and mainland Territories of Australia. Not sure if it is actually "available" in all states, or what "available" actually even means. On the bright side it specifically mentions E85 so it may be OK.

bit late....but anyway, I gave up on ally wheel nuts after stripping one. Don't need that sort of issue. The ones I have run for years are steel from my mates at autobarn. take a nice thin 17mm socket and fit in most wheels. they have a flange so they don't slide into the deep sockets. look like this....thanks ascii art. . __ .|...| .|...| .|...| \___/ I don't have an issue with using a rattle gun to spin the nut if you have long studs, but always stop early and finish them by hand with a torque wrench (unless the rattle gun has actually been calibrated to the right torque, 110nm for standard studs). I have seen studs stretch and break from not torquing right, it is just crazy not to take the time to do this stuff right on a track car. I use a makita electric impact wrench then finish off with a warren and brown torque wrench, does not take too long.

oh thank god you are not the head of nissan R&D! the R36 GTR would run an rb20 with a huge truck turbo and 500mm, 22 piston brakes!

I understand all rb starters are interchangeable...I use an rb30 starter on my rb26.

yeah I agree. I have been running mine hard for 5 years on the same gearbox, under 300kw though. Includes standing starts and lots of flat shits. However...I did buy a new gearbox at the start (not sure if they are available any more, if not they can be fully rebuilt). It was definately worth it, any 20yo gearbox will have stuffed synchros and bad bearings. There is also something in technique (wish I could tell the difference lol), some people just kill these boxes more often in race use. If you are running over 300kw forget it....just put a ppg or par straight cut dog gearset in it. do not bother with the os giken (or any other) helical stuff for track use with decent power

lol I don't think this car will be blowing anyone anywhere....its just for getting around it was on awd dyno (the "before" run was 2wd)

As I said earlier in the thread I am absolutely over the moon about the results, this is how all stageas should drive absolutely buckets of torque everywhere, and plenty of power when needed (makes more than my race gtr lol) This is it for me for mods on the car for now, I am going to enjoy it for a few months. I guess the next thing would be changing the std injectors and air flow meters (both are maxed out which is why we didn't push past 16psi). And a decent turbo if (when?) this one fails. Oh and I have something very cool coming for the interior but that is a story for another day