Duncan

bottom line is that warranty work is least profitable for the dealership (generally) because the manufacturer decides the price they get paid for a particular job and dealership is obliged to do it. service in warranty and service out of warranty is where they make their money

I've had a couple of new cars over the years (one was even a Saab!) Couple of things I do: 100% always always buy factory genuine floor mats. They are a horrible rip off, but so much better than how the carpet will look after 3,5 etc years without them Definitely treat it hard for first thousand klm. Lots of heavy load and acceleration, little to no idle, sitting in traffic etcetc that is terrible for run in. We were nice to our 350z and it always burned oil. Nissan said 1l/5000klm oil burned is within spec, their engineers must be so proud About 6 months out from the enf of warranty, take a list with every little annoyance back to get fixed under warranty. Don't take any shit, you pay a fortune for the car so get them to fix what they didn't get right. Give it a nice scratch somewhere so you aren't worried about the first scratch for the next few months

to me colour is a spectrum, you can be any colour you want to be

great to hear....there has sure been a pattern with wrong colour coil packs causing issues over the years

Because someone's been in there before you. They are a pain to pull apart from factory, no chance factory goop stopped gooping suddenly

There are square drive sockets available in 13mm instead of regular 1/2" extensions or breaker bars, if you hammer one of those in then get something long onto it you should get there (especially after plenty of heat on the area)

BTW, what you have is different to every Greddy kit I've seen before, they normally have the thermostat built into the relocated mount, are you sure its genuine

You need to make sure the oil is filtered, whether or not the thermostat is opened. Can't really tell how it works from those pics and I assume there were no instructions provided.... Did the kit come with lines, or are you making them. The old school location of upside down on the strut tower is a crap idea. Much better to mount the filter upside down on the chassis rail in front of the front diff

The tapered pipe standards are a bit of a mess since they almost kinda fit each other. I thought Japanese fittings were BSPT, but my good friend ChatGPT agrees with you that they are PT (they are probably interchangeable in practice). It is possible that the previous setup was mismatched (PT in NPT), it is not guaranteed they will leak if installed tight enough and with sealant but it is a terrible idea. And yes, you can get BSPT / NPT adapters, brazillions of options but you need to consider your available space where it is going

Naked laps are going to be cold this time of year!

Custom is probably quickest and cheapest for pretty much any JDM unless you stumble across some ebay junk

Odd. The standard one is accepted in Australian racing. You probably just need flat bar between the floor rather than a "hoop" as the tailshaft is above floor level in the tunnel

There is a driveshaft loop from factory in the middle of the shaft, it also holds the centre bearing to the body.

Unfortunately, you really shouldn't drive or run it until it is reasonably bubble free. This might not help if you need to rolling again quickly, but you probably just need to give it some time (eg overnight). If you are trying to push frothed up fluid through it will never settle down. So; wait patiently eg overnight, start engine and slowly turn wheels lock to lock a few times, stop engine and wait patiently a few hours again

You're on the right track, try 20 more times Maybe jack up the front of the car to give the air a chance, but I think the power steering "cooler" near the radiator does have a upward loop that might trap air too.

Ah f**k it, it is a lovely starry night and 100m to the shed isn't that bad while it is still over 10o Both long and short bolt have 8mm of M6 thread and an 8mm shaft. Short bolt has 22mm under the head Long bolt has 55mm under the head The cap head is 6mm high but I don't think that matters

Weird that they listed length including the head, bolt length is normally specified from the mounting surface/excluding the head Here is the diagram at least for number and relative size. It's not complete though (strangely), there are at least 2 long bolts on the top front cover but only 1 is shown This shows it a bit better I'd guess 2 long bolts on top cover, 3 short on bottom cover + 2 short on top cover. Kudos have kits of genuine bolts that might help identify number and length: Lower timing case (3 of same): https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/lower-timing-case-fastener-suit-nissan-rb20de-rb20det-rb25de-rb25det-rb26dett-excluding-p-1388.html upper timing case (2 long, 3 of short) https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/upper-timing-case-fastener-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-1387.html Upper backing plate, these look easy but note 1 x 1 size and 3x a smaller size: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/upper-timing-case-backing-plate-fastener-suit-nissan-skyline-rb26dett-p-1389.html

That won't be so quick and easy; I have a bunch of those bolts sitting around but don't know how many of which. The front and rear, upper and lower timing cover bolts are all over the place I will be pulling the ex-race car engine apart sometime and can confirm exact specs then....but sometime has already by 5 months wait....

yeah so to clarify; oxidisation on aluminium is a potential indicator of meaningful rust elsewhere, but on its own is not an issue

Umm that's probably just how tax works (you didn't mention value of what you are importing...), but GST and the broker's fee add up I recently imported some expensive bits from US, value A$1,062.43 and paid import costs: GST is 10% obviously, car parts from US were duty free (other than GST) and Other was the broker's %. Direct shipping cost was included in the cost base $1,062.43, not just the parts

Sorry mate, my old eyes need a better pic. Oxidation on aluminium is not an issue in itself.

The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive

I urge you not to make any further setup changes until you put some proper tyres on it. There is no point trying to improve on a flawed foundation, you will likely find it handles totally differently (strengths/weaknesses) with new tyres.

Hi mate, glad you are enjoying your time at the track and looking to get your times down. In my experience you will have more fun and way more lap time success changing things in the following order: 1. check wheel alignment 2. r spec tyres on spare set of rims 3. sway bars (stiffer springs are not the best way to reduce roll as they act in all compression conditions not just roll) 4. shocks and springs (lighter than you have) 5. mechanical diff 6. better pads and discs 7. replace sure all bushes, ball joints, rod ends etc 8. more power At the moment it is pretty clear from the video that it understeers mid corner (need more front end grip) and oversteers hugely under power on exit (needs more rear grip). Good tyres will make 200% difference to both of those and you won't really notice the effect of any change until you start with some grip. Yes (comparably) stiff springs can be OK for track only use, as long as you stay off the ripple strips etc because they compromise the amount of time your tyres spend on the ground over bumps.

or, just run it a few minutes, it is self clearencing