You can make your own. The most important things are the scanner and printer. You need both very high quality.
Many scanners contain anti-countefeit software which don't allow you to scan money. This can easily be bypassed by flipping the note vertically.
For the printer you might want to get an offset printing press that have an inked plate and negatives that are reverse shot, such as the popular Ab Dick 360 which is used by many professional counterfeiters. Statistics say 1 in 10,000 $100 USD bills are high quality fakes printed from these. The U.S. Treasury uses 30 tons of gravure printing force to print money. Unless you have a very large bankroll of capital investment, you won't come close.
A very high DPI laser printer might do, but the Secret Service has most high-end printers installed with software that makes unique fingerprints on your printed paper. Don't believe me? Try shining a flashlight with a blue LED on a piece of paper you print from a high-end printer. The software prints little yellowish, light dots on the paper.
Since 1996, the US started putting watermarks and metal security strips inside the bills. My method will bypass both the iodine ink test, and the watermark test (holding the bill up to the light to see the President's face).
Because money is made of about 3/4 cotton and 1/4 linen embedded with silk fibers, iodine pens do not leave a mark. The paper for money is produced by one and only one company only: Crane & Co, which are the only government contractors signed to print the money which are shipped to US government Treasury department in armored vehicles to be ready to print money. Very few have gotten away with robbing these trucks to counterfeit high quality $100 bills. You don't need to risk this in order to print very good counterfeit money! My method works just as well. The only test my method does not pass is the UV light test that they use at banks to determine counterfeit money. Unfortunately.
The actual formula for the paper is a government secret, so nobody knows exactly how to make it. I'm a chemist PhD, so I've tried in my personal time many different methods and none of them are successful. Cotton bonding doesn't work, spraying blank newspaper with hairspray, etc. It's almost like conjuring the exact formula for Coca Cola or the Big Mac sauce. You can come close and even replicate the exact flavour, but you will most likely never come up with the exact and perfect formulae.
Steps:
1) Put masking tape over the serial number, just enough to cover it, then cut it in half so you cover just the numerical values. So when you print out new bills, you have the original number and the printed template will have the number on the tape. This will give unique values as opposed to the same numbers repeatedly over and over again.
2) Use concrete dripper to fill a pan. Put a $5 bill in it. We use $5 because it's the lowest denomination we can sacrifice that has a watermark and metal security strip.
3) Use a 1" wide soft bristle brush for about 3 minutes, stroking the bill back and forth with it. Flip the bill over and repeat, then take out the bill and let it dry. Poof! All the ink is magically gone. Now we have the actual note from the U.S. Bureau of Engraving and Printing.
Acetone, bleach, nor Oxyclean do not remove the ink, contrary to belief. Lye in liquid form, which concrete stripped have, is the way to go.
4) Photoshop the $100 bill to fit the 8x11 paper for printing. Make sure it's good quality and resolution. Zoom in and check every nook and cranny of detail. Some photo editing software may have anti-counterfeit measures built in them too. You can reverse vertically to bypass this in most cases.
Lighten the background because real money has a beigish color. Blank bills are a manilla colour so the printer will enhance that and the paper will be printed darker as such.
5) Now take your printed 8x11 and put a few (four is optimal) layers of very light glue stick on the very tip of the edges on the washed paper then paste it exactly on the 8x11 paper where the printing is, then print it again on the exact same spot, but on the real note.
6) Peel the new printed bill and the front is now finished. Now you can remove the masking tape to disclose the serial number.
7) On the side you printed, use the glued edges to glue over the printed template of the reverse and reload it into the printer to print the back of the bill and now peel the template off.
DONE
If you lightened the template enough and your printer is of good color quality tone, now you have a shiny new $100 bill!
My formula makes three bills per sheet.
You should crinkle the bill up a bit so it feels real, but just know that without a REAL printer, it will NEVER feel like the real thing. Again, as I've stated before, US Treasury uses 30 tons of force to press ink on their notes. Which is why the the quality of your equipment is very important in counterfeitting. If you don't want to get caught, USE EXPENSIVE/HQ MACHINES
Hope this helped. I've used this method for the past decade or so and have never gotten caught, or even had anyone be suspicious. Just don't do anything dumb. Also obviously don't get water on the bills because it's still ink on paper...
Have fun and don't get v&
