Roffy92

Did this a while ago but never got around to adding it to my signature haha

alrighty will rip it appart again and check out whats going on, though from your working mirrors your saying that the L/R switch does in fact select the Left or Right mirror to FOLD aswell as angle the mirror? just to add to the fix ^above i think (correct me if im wrong) that the little mettel bits need to be put on to the knobbly bit with their middle hole as this sets the limits of the motor (e.g. i put mine in the first hole and now my mirror works fine but folds out past the stop point and i have to pull it back to get it to the "click point") hard to explain but im refering to the point where the mirror feel natural then you can push it further till it is fully out (i think its a saftey thing if you clip your mirror on something)

rave from the grave, however i don't think its worth starting a new topic on as it directly relates to this one so if anyone still watching this : Firstly great tut just done my LHS mirror works like a charm i now have the question of my driver side mirror... wondering how the controller is supposed to function it seems as though the L/R selection works work the mirror adjustment (just mirror) however no matter what side i have the L/R toggle switch the bottom toggle switch controls the LHS mirror? im thinking my driver mirror motor is dead but seems odd that the L/R selector dosnt control the motor on the appropriate side? can anyone with a functional system help me with this one... ie. how is it supposed to opperate bit hard to problem solve if i don't know the problem lol thanks to those who view the old threads every once in a while

Hey, to quote exactly above ^^ any chance of getting one of these? Im in perth but have been looking for an easy solution for this "auto folding" feature for a while now. Cheers

just got around to puttin green in my dash , cigarette lighter and power window just wonderin if anyones got any secrets to getting the needles in the cluster to be nice and bright red, they are still a little red but a bit patchy :s

yeh shes been running fine for the last year so i guess its not important...wonder if i can use it for something... dont have alot of experience yet so sorry if its a dumb question but would this have been used for a boost controller once upon a time maybe? it seems around about the right location for that

hey guys, had a look for a what the f** is this topic couldnt find one so sorry if im posting on something already covered. just changing my park lights took out my pod filter and found this little sucker attached to it ---> (attached) wondering if anyone knows what this is? looks like its an aftermarket addition. followed the cables back one side of it is just positive from the fuse box then another loom of cables runs back through the firewall? any ideas?

hey, just removed my boost gauge to get the car over the pits (planning on putting back in) wondering if i leave the line open (where it connects to the gauge) if that will hurt anything? iv just pushed all cabling and boost line ect under my A pillar trim so i can pull it back out and re connect after i pass the pits? any help greatly appreciated cheers Roffy

so i know this topic is old but ill figure i should ask in here rather then making a new thred....if anyone is still watching this one so i took my r33 in to Xspeed in perth for a 100k service a while back and only had a budget of $1k . their shop is constantly full of lines so safe to say they know what their doing (however rather expensive) so the invoice i got back said the water pump was changed, timing belt kit (the guy said that i still need a few belts done) nissan oem coolant and labour i now have a list of things i need to work through, the most important of wich are: --fan belts all u/s - require replacement but did not do due to budget constraints --rocker cover gaskets leaking --coolant condition poor- this one is interesting as the guy said my radiator needs to be sent away and cleaned as alot of the cooling tubes were cloged or something? --and exhaust manifold missing 1 stud - he also said it needs to be taken off and machined flat again before putting in new studs... now my issue is i dont know which one to do first? does anyone have an oppinion on this or knowledge as to whats more important? OR if any of these i can do myself with little danger of too much damage (not to experienced but always keen to give it a shot ) cheers if ur still reading hahah

oh hello, sorry if im bringing up something that is already covered somewhere on here, however i cant find anything relevant through searching anyway my problem is the plastic mud cover that screws under the engine ( driver side in front of the tire) has snapped and is currently being held up by string i managed to find n do a highwayside repair. so the question being does anyone know what this is called and how do i get a new one? don't really wanna cable tie it up as it had already been done before and ripped the plastic. secondly a while back i was re-calibrating my central locking so that the passenger door would open with the driver door, all i was doing was loosening a screw from a bit of metal that holds two steel rods together, adjusting the stop height, and tightening until it was right and basically the passenger door locked as it should. got it all sorted and went to give it a final lock off so i wouldnt have to worry about it again and snapped the part because i screwed it too tight... sorry for the lengthy explanation is anyone familiar with this part / knows what it is called and how i can order another one? thanks

i just had a verry simmalar problem fixed... had the same issues as you, hard to get into 1st but but was alrightish after that. turned out that my double button HD had royally f**ked over my flywheel + clutch bearings were rooted + bit of clutch wear... was a $1400 fix but had to return to standard clutch as i couldnt afford to replace the HD at the moment. For that i got brand new clutch, new machined flywheel and labour for the job done, now it rides like a dream again just sucks that its like driving with a feather under my left foot

iv noticed my boot sometimes fills up with water a little bit :S now its a tad rusty aswel... checked out all the sealant etc andits all still stuck on, i cant find where the water is coming in from... should i go knock back the rust that is already present and cover that with some protectionism, then wait to see if i can find streaks next time it happens as i will clean my boot when addressing the rust in there?

nice writup just adding my 2 cents put a new sensor in my 33 the other day n the old one was in there TIGHT with minimal room to move my 22mm spanner. ended up using a cold chisel and knocking it around with that to break it loose then spanner from there. may have to remove allll turbo heat shields (including dump) i even had to pull out my J pipe from the BOV blowback. anyway point being they are a B**ch to get out good luck!

ahhh! i am also having the same problem, just found this post while browsing so i havnt done any research yet, but im also quite confused as my rb25 is still stock just running actuator pressure (nothing over 9psi) i can take off smoothly (ie. im not dunping the clutch) and as soon as i get the pedel to the floor the ass jumps around like a mofo, if i grab 2nd quickly it keeps spinning the tires till i grab 3rd as far as i know all my suspension is stock, but the guy i bought it off did say that it was really low when he got it. ill check the springs tomoro n hope it wasnt a chop job too :S thanks for the advice ^^^^^ i now have a list to run through

id say ur gunna be well under the amp limit for that system but FYI stressed cables dont just melt ( unless extremely stressed) if ur unsure about a cables capacity keep an eye on it, they heat up slowly if they are running too much current so you wont notice anything until the heat builds too much for the insulation then BANG... just a thought