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I got one on aliexpress for something like $30, it was a piece of stainless with a carbon wrap. Shape was alright and the wrap was ok, worst case I was just going to paint it black.

Located in Perth, looking for $1200. Can post anywhere if the buyer wants. Twin Apexi ax53b60 turbos. Includes aftermarket 3 inch dump pipes and new Permaseal gasket kits. I purchased these from a guy running 631hp on a RB26 on around 1.5bar, dyno sheet attached. Was told they were recently rebuilt (Steve Murch) before my purchase, they look to be in really good condition.

Getting out of the car scene so it's time to sell my stuff. Everything shown in photos is included and is all brand new. Asking for $280, located Cannington WA, can post if the buyer wants. Separately cost me close to $400 and some parts had to be sourced from overseas. This kit contains everything required to make your own brake lines for your car, let me know if you have any questions. 1x Brake Pipe 3/16 (4.75mm) Cupro Nickel Kunifer 7.6m roll. Easy to bend and road legal. 20x 10mmx1mm for 3/16 tube Stainless steel fittings. Inverted flare/double flare for Japanese cars. 1x 3 WAY 10 x 1mm threads with 6mm mounting hole 1x RestoSupplies Handheld Brake Pipe Straightener 3/16 inch 1x RestoSupplies Flaring Tool for 3/16 or 4.75mm Tubing 1x RestoSupplies 180 Degree Brake Pipe, Tube Forming Tool (suits 3/16, 1/4, 5/16",3/8 lines) 1x RestoSupplies Brake Pipe, Tube Forming Pliers (suits 3/16" and 1/4" lines)

I sold a 4.375 front diff just a few months ago for $250, there's definitely a market, but probably pretty small.

Could've sold you my brand new 1000cc xpurts, 350z pedal and r35 coils.. Well maybe you need some other bits I can offload. Anyway car looks pretty tidy and and should go well with these "subtle" mods.

I got a deal for you so you don't feel so bad about the crashing market, you paid 10k, I can give you 11k, maybe squeeze out 12k if I have to.

Holy shit that's a bit of money. I haven't kept track of mine and I don't even want to know, I would estimate somewhere in the mid 40's and I'd still have to spend another 15k to even get it moving (ecu, suspension, tune, a lot of an fittings, wiring etc) that doesn't include needing a paint job, new seats and all of that. This is probably for the best, better I stop myself now than spending more on a car that's gonna make 350kw on a good day.

Thanks. Lol I can't keep going from making 1 bad decision to another, you'll have to prey on some unsuspecting innocent soul that doesn't know how cars will financially ruin him

Looks like I have no choice really and I'll have to accept the bmw/eurolife. I hope this thing sells quickly.. I'm only in the middle of a complete fuse box change over and relocation (all the fuse box wires are cut at the moment), so I'll just need to finish that and put the interior back together and get her on the market.

Pretty much, I'm sending a container over with house stuff anyway so sending the parts won't be an issue. Not sure if I could be bothered though to be honest.. maybe time to get out of the game. I'll probably put the rolling body up for sale here, if it sells it sells, if not I might just have to send it over. We'll see.

I've had a look into this and looks like I'm ruled out of that option completely as well. You need to have owned it for 12+ months and used it regularly in that time and it needed to be able to be used on public roads in that time. While the car is registered it isn't road worthy and hasn't seen the road in probably over 8 years.

Might be the end of the road for this project... I'm moving to Australia and have just been quoted over 10k to import and register it and it doesn't even sound like it's a sure thing due to be "heavily modified". I have some thinking to do.

These also fit VQ20DE/VQ25DE/VQ25DET/VQ30DE/VQ30DET so you can expand your market.

99% sure from memory that's what I did but might have gone for a 1.2mm restrictor with a 26 pump.

I would recommend going for an external oil feed for the Variable Timing Control, I've tried the internal brass plug way and it wasn't pressurising the VTC enough. I had a new plug CNC'd with the correct hole sizes and it still didn't work, external worked perfectly.

Got my 2x 25 row oil coolers mounted, it took me a while to figure out where to install these. At first I was thinking between intercooler and radiator but they are too big. There is almost no clearance around any part of these, the bottom of them pretty much touches the inside of the bumper, the backside is a few mm off the intercooler piping, the fittings are also really close to the bumper (I got the lowest profile fittings I could possibly find, another few mm taller and they would hit something) and the hoses are almost touch the headlights when the swing open. On top of all that I had to find a nice creative way to mount them as well. Learn from my mistakes if you can and just don't do any of this. Anyway after all that I got the right side cooler plumbed up which is for the engine, this goes back to a thermostat block which mounts on the factory oil filter location. This block also feeds oil to the turbos. The left side is for the gearbox, I'm just waiting on an AN adapter which connects to the gearbox. I have a thermostat block for this as well.. the one the everyone running this box uses apparently. It's supposed to bypass the oil cooler when cold (90% bypass) and then at temperature 100% goes through the cooler, as per the image below. I'm not convinced to be honest.. looks like the oil has an easier flow path to the cooler.

Yeah it was pretty tight, these 90 degree v8s are so wide there was about 6mm clearance on each side between the exhaust manifolds and chassis. Front was pretty tight as well but I didn't move the engine back like you are.

I turned my attention to the fuel system which I thought would be maybe a 1 hour job at max. Pretty straight forward plan: replace in tank pump and install a bosch 044 inline. When I pulled the fuel pump hanger out, it looked like this and I thought there's no way I can put a new pump in and leave the hanger looking like that. So I cleaned up the hanger, but still wasn't happy, there was quite a bit of pitting from the rust and I was looking into zinc plating options but they were all pretty expensive and the hanger would eventually look like this again one day. So I decided to make a new hanger from stainless so that can't happen again. I don't want to admit or remember how long it took to me measure all the angles and heights for the level sensor and low level switch. Obviously with the fuel pump hanger looking like it did the inside of the fuel tank probably won't look very good either, luckily no rust but with fuel sitting for around 10 years it doesn't look great. Outside of the tank really wasn't too bad either, but I wasn't going to leave it like that. Cleaned the inside and it came out pretty good. Cleaned and painted the outside.

Cool build man, I've previously put a vh45 into a 350z. Originally it was going to be a vk but due to costs and availability the guy went with the vh, would like to do a vk swap one day.

You are right, even though I’m a Nissan fan boy I can’t argue with that at all. A m4 would be nice.. probably the next logical step. i probably won’t drive this much if it ever gets done, but there’s a part of me that never wants to let it go.

I guess at the end of the day it comes down to preference and your bank account. There’s plenty of support for these boxes and it’s easy to get upgraded clutches that will handle whatever you want to throw at them but of course with a huge cost. This is the sort of thing that gets me excited:

Tell me about it, I'd rather give up Nissans and take up cocaine. The amount of times I've questioned myself for spending money and time I don't have on this old piece of scrap.. I don't know man After I went for a drive in one friends Audi and another friends Mercedes both with their own version of a dual clutch, I just fell in love with them. No need to piss around trying to find some perfect clutch that isn't too aggressive and all the rest. I still enjoy manuals but a DCT is much cooler, especially with paddle shifting. Should be an easy swap for you, there's a few DCT to LS adapters out there, and for most engines actually, I was just thick enough to choose an engine with no support.

Small update.. I actually have been doing some work on this (although hard to stay motivated at times) and have a lot of photos of things I've done so I'll update soon. So I currently have a cd009 gearbox in the car, but I decided that was too easy, too few gears and I like making life hard for myself so about 1.5years ago I bought another gearbox. Some of you will know what this is.. For those of you that don't it's a 7 speed dual clutch transmission from a BMW m3. Adapter plate (in progress): Crank to input shaft adapter, the gearbox has no clutch or torque converter: On a nismo flywheel of course: Got that big boy spline: And lastly, here's what an $8000 gearbox attached to an $800 engine looks like:

Looks good man, I have the same issue with making pipes up.. just finished most the piping on my build and it's made me want to take a huge break from doing it anytime again.

You 100% sure timing is ok? If you got fuel and spark I'm guessing it's timing, the engine should still be able to start even without an afm. I would start by double checking the timing, take the CAS off and make sure you haven't broken the half moon in the cam and also check cam/crank timing marks line up. Edit: I just noticed you posted this 4 weeks ago, but it just popped up for me. Hope you solved your issue.