Reflector

This. Just do it and rest assured it's an asset to your build. I've always HPC coated my exhaust components (if the wallet permitted I'd do the entire system ) but my turbo manifold, ex housing and dump pipe/wastegate plumb is all coated. Granted, it is still hot (but greatly reduced) and you can feel that under the engine bay... but consider this... what would it be like without it? Whilst off, definitely beneficial if you can afford it.

No worries mate. Also something else to consider - Due to the walbro being smaller and having a 45deg filter sock, it will fit a lot nicer into the cavity of the fuel tank allowing pick up a little further down the tank than what the bosch pumps permit. I've always commended bosch for having quality products but this time round, I can definitely say for an R33 Skyline application - Walbro > Bosch.

Mate I've just been through this exact same problem over the last few months with the bosch 023 (040 big bro). First time pump last 3months but got noisier and noiser. Must've got a bad batch of fuel or something because it started leaning out big time and groaning badly. Fuel pressure dropped 2 bar. Took out the pump and the entire screen was filled with minuscule particles. Bought a new 023 whilst cleaning the old one and testing. Fixed the problem for about 1.5months then did the same thing. Exact same problem but I have suspicion my 'Submersible fuel line' was not what it was supposed to be. Replaced old pump, Was fine for 3 days then the same thing happened. Long story short. The bosch intake fuel pumps are incredibly sensitive to debris. Seeing as they only have a screen mesh and no removable filter they are restricted to a flat surface area that once blocked, cannot allow sufficient fuel to be delivererd to the system. If you have a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, check your current pressure at idle. Solution - Install a walbro. Your current power figure could get by with a 255lph but if you plan on chasing more power (I have the same turbo @ 300rwkw) go for the 400lph to future proof. They're smaller, more efficient, easier to fit and have a larger surface area of pick up due to the removable filter sock. Edit: Forgot to mention - I only fitted the walbro 400lph pump on Tuesday but the pump is dead quite, fuel pressure is up around 3bar idle (vacuum off) and it's the smoothest it's been in months. Will be pulling out the pump in a few months time to asses the sock as I still believe there's debris in my tank.

I was REALLY impressed with that conversion. It was definitely a beautiful set up and sounded the piece on the road too. Great to cruise from southside with the R34 LS2 and the R33 LS1. Haha, there's more cleaning to do - if I had more time I would have spent another few hours doing the underside of the bonnet. Until the motor comes out, it's all hand polishing and TLC for that engine bay.

I happily accepted the award Was so stoked, alot of hard hours put in but definitely made it worth the effort!

Hey should've come and said hi! Granted, I didn't stay long, 1 pass (if you'd call it that). Car leaned out 3500rpm and over big time! Once I got it back to the workshop I found the fuel pump to be flowing 1/4 of it's flow rate Months of the car running fine - first time to the track with new build and that happens. Oh well, installing new pump tomorrow and probably take her out once more before the cruise haha

Anyone from south side heading out to willowbank tonight? Figured it best to get some runs in before the stormy weather bombards us again

Can't wait! Missed last year's due to the turbocharger saying a big 'eff you!'. 12months later and a smaller bank account, the upgrades are done

Done at trade price. Rest assured still not cheap but the quality of the product far surpasses that of a cheaper replica. Imho better off saving for longer and just getting the better product. Do it once, do it right.

If you're not too worried about driving a little south (Logan area) Trevor at CES does top quality work. He also offers a turbo back system for R33's. I've had a 3->3.5" custom dump and a custom muffler made, great sound and maximum flow.

Only $79 in Dicksmith's. I would imagine EB is selling it for $109.95 because people are more inclined to bring their old games in, trade in and get a lower price. I went Dicksmith, about 3 other people inquiring about purchasing it as I left the counter. Good game so far, too bad my 1080i TV doesn't do it too much justice Time to hook it up to the 27" Asus monitor and reap the benefits of LED LCD goodness !

Price was done at an agreeable trade value. I'm not sure how many hours the average tuner charges to tune a car (assuming they're tuned from scratch) but because we did a pre-tune in house/street tune (no dyno) before handing it over to Carlos, it did make the job a lot easier/not as time consuming. best bet is to call and talk to him as I'm sure he can help with a full quote or per hr figure

You're running a very similar set up to me except I went with a Link G4. My advice to you is if you plan on tuning yourself, then driving it on the street, you'll need to tune real time on the road to correct mixtures at various loads - I do NOT recommend you do this by yourself and it is strongly advised you understand A/F mixtures and timing (among other things) before you attempt anything. Idle mixtures differ greatly compared to mixtures under load (especially with boost coming on). If the vi-pec is anything like the link plug and play (vi-pec and link are incredibly similar), there should be an included base map that will be enough for you to start the car and do any prechecks you need. Typically they are a very rich ('safe') base tune and are exactly that - a base tune, designed to be enough to start the car and drive it onto the dyno for a full tune.

Thanks man. I copped a lot of negative responses when stating I wanted to ditch VCT. In all honesty, I'd be interested to see the difference with the same set up with VCT enabled (guess smaller inlet cam with VCT support) but these RB engines really perform beautifully from 3000rpm onwards. It all depends on what your goals are. Question is, what are you hoping to achieve? More response, more low down torque, more top end power? What other supporting mods do you currently have? Camtech are a good choice regardless, great customer service and their products are high quality.

This is without the cams degree'd (currently doing it now - Cars off the road). Running 14-15psi through an Apexi-AVCR however we're ditching that as the boost controller in the future and using the Link G4 to control the boost. Going to put 18psi through mid range and bleed off to 15psi. Once I get some spare dollars I'll rebuild the bottom end and then the fun begins. In regards to driveability, it's a kitten down low, drives perfectly, put your foot down and it's a lot of fun - need some stickier tyres haha . This set up was built with 1/4 mile in mind as well. We had to put limitations (cuts) at redline (7500rpm) as it wanted to keep making power above and beyond but with a stock bottom end, there's not point pushing it.