RB Mulisha

Good idea. Most if this applies for both RB20DE and RB25DE turbo conversions. As far as bolting a turbo on it, easy. Just use turbo, oil feed/return, injectors and exhaust manifold from a RB20DET or RB25DET if you're going that way. The AFM is the same in turbo and non turbo so no need to change that and it's best to get an aftermarket fuel pump so you know it's gonna be getting enough fuel. Most RB20DET ones have been around for nearly 20 years so past their best. The most important thing is to either get the ECU retuned or get an aftermarket one in. The DET ECU will quickly kill a high compression motor with forced induction. The clutch and flywheel on the RB20DE is half an inch smaller so it can be changed but I've never found it to be much of an issue and there are some good clutch upgrades available for the smaller flywheel anyway. Because of the higher compression both the RB20 and RB25 will have less lag and better response than the turbo versions. It's also a good idea to get a slightly larger turbo at the same time since you won't be getting the same lag and since it needs to be tuned might as well try find some bigger injectors Both these engines IF DONE PROPERLY and with either 370cc injectors in the RB20 or 450cc injectors in the RB25 will be good and safe at around 1 bar boost. Part 1, Buy the parts require. Exhaust Manafold mint one or get the face machined. Exhaust Studs x12 ( $55 ) Exhaust Dump Pipe Exhaust Front Pipe. Gaskets. Turbo (duh?) (**) Turbo Oil Lines. Air Piping, Hose clamps, elbows, J Pipe, compressor outlet. Pod Filter Intercooler and piping. RB20DET ECU (**) Fuel Pump (ANYONE GOT ONE FOR SALE? <$100) Blow off valve/ Plumb back piping. New Oil and Filter. I got SM10W-30 Part 2, Buy Optional Extras Turbo Water Lines. Larger Injectors (**) Front Mount Plenum Adjustable Boost Controller Really big gay looking boost gauge mounted on your bonnet. Turbo Timer Larger Air Flow Meter (**) Custom Exhaust Anything with a ** means you will need to retune the ecu, so buy it before you do. Part 3, Remove Current Crap Kinda simple, so I'll only list tips and problems that I had. Removing Exhaust manafold stud, Use two nuts and lock 'em together. Keep the exhaust manafold nuts to use them again. Bag and Label all parts so you can find that bolt "that was here somewhere" You will need to remove the oil. Part 4, Add fancy turbo thingy 1. Assemble Turbo and compressor elbow. 2. Mock up the following on the engine; manafold, turbo, dump pipe and exhaust front pipe first (without doing up bolts tight). Get everything to line up properally. 3. Oil Send and Return Lines (and water if using it), is a b-arch to get to, I know no tricks, just get flexable. NB: I attached everything loosly, made sure it lined up, then torqued the bolts to the correct setting (see the pdf manual) Also, note, that bracket that holds the J pipe above the exhaust manfold has a bolt that cannot be placed after the exhaust manafold, so make sure you do it! 4. Standard Intercooler mounting. First need the parts, intercooler and crazy pipe. (See pic, coming soon). Note that I think there are at least 2 different designed of intercooler, R32/cef and R33 look the same exept on elbow bend the other way. To fit it you need to make some holds. Use a drill and make lots of circles in an oval shape close together (see pic attached soon), then a chizel and hammer smack out the bits inbetween the holes. Tidy up with file. The position should be obvious there is a recess the same shape be larger.. compare to a turbo car. Anyway, I did this balls first, as I couldn't line up the intercooler because it would not fit underneath.. luckly once the holes are there for the pipes the intercooler will fit ! Tightly. 5. Air Piping. Yeah, what a jigsaw. Took me a while, but that's because I don't know what I'm doing (that's also a disclaimer for this whole document!!). Just use whatever pipes and joiners you have to make it work... (attach pic). If you don't have the pipes or intercooler etc, I would probably recomend just buying a $400 front mount kit that comes with everything, I haven't done this, but would expect it to be easier... and piping etc prob cost me over $100 this way. 6. ***update soon. 7. Remember to put oil back in your car before starting ! Part 5, Tune, Test and Fault find 1. BEFORE DRIVING. Install New ECU If you have to start it without a tuned ecu, I would retard the timing (turn cas sensor clockwise). Install ECU (under passanger left foot kick panel) can use auto or manual ecu or manual car just need to short the inhibitor switch. Dyno/ Custom Fuel map ecu. 2. Start and only idle, check for exhaust leaks, weird noises.. etc etc. 3. ***update soon. Part 6, Take it to the track and learn some mad skills.