Plan-FAILURE

We'll let Fit n Fun decide what he wants. i think he will opt for a bit more than what you have suggested, personally.

so you call "without spending much money" a $40 bleed valve and a high flow filter? i think the guy has more to rub together than the peanuts you make from your decal business. cop the sig, you fall into 2 categories there.

go back your hole, no one can see you there.

dude...there could be more than one problem...and we don't even know what the first problem is 100% yet FFS

Well if damage was done internally, metal filings would come out in the oil. Haven't had any experience with oil not getting to the cam. Timing belts are usually good for 100,000 or more on skylines. If they have been sloppy though I wouldn't put it past them to have screwed up with the timing belt. Just out of curiosity, what oil are you running?

I'm not saying I'm right man. I can see your posts and your rep. All im saying is thats what I think. Correct me if i'm wrong but he already has his cam cover off. And with the draining of oil...thats just to make sure you don't have multiple problems.

LOL Sorry rolls i meant timing belt. If your timing belt has slackened (as they do over time) the belt at high revs can jump a couple of teeth on the gears. This is what I think has happened. I agree with Simon-32 that it is definitely now a timing related issue. Drain your oil to be sure its just external damage.

yeah i thought that was the case initially but read this and thought he didn't" "yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas" so if he does have spark and fuel pressure and the exhaust gear is all together i'd be going with the timing belt slipping a tooth or two. How long since you last TB change Rolls?

I guess with a high stall and a performance auto box an auto turbo would beat a manual of the same power rating down the 1/4.

You have an auto turbo. You don't have a clutch. You never take your foot off the accelerator to change gears. Not taking your foot off the accelerator means boost pressure will remain intact? So you are on full boost from the first time you hit it until you let the throttle off?

i just lolled

Everything you need is on SAU Karl. We have a Classified section where people can post up what they need/want to buy and also a trader section where businesses offering all the used/replacement/performance parts can be found. Best way to do it is explore SAU and you will learn in leaps and bounds. All the best brother.

If you have no spark and no fuel your car is never gonna start and I can't see how the CAS and gears are going to give you no fuel and no spark. I'd be checking Fuel Pump Relay Ignitor

Got a pic of the coilys yet bruv?

Why'd you take it off brother? Why not just hide it and run stock boost? You in need of money?

he might be referring to the fact he knows a bit about it?

Mate you'll always find the guys that call you a tosser for posting up questions like yours but some of us enjoy giving advice no matter how many times we've heard the question because its fun. So your car...best bang for your buck mods are Turbo back exhaust (if yours isn't) FMIC (front mount intercooler) which you have - this is probably the most important upgrade you could do along with your exhaust if its not turbo back already. CAI (cold air intake) Stock R32 Wastegate Actuator (will get you up to 10psi, stock r33 actuator is limited to 7 or 8psi) Boost Controller - if you want more boost (safely to about 14psi which is the limit of your stock turbo) Power run and tune This will give you approx 200-210rwkw and this is when you'll need the supporting mods for more power (injectors, fuel pump, z32 AFM, coil packs) Jimmy

Yeah mate from what you say, if the behaviour of your engine internals has changed (your "feeling rough" description) then I can't imagine it would be an air leak unless you have more than one problem. I know personally that trying to describe the characteristics of a noise while driving can be difficult. Is it possible the "pop" could have been something flicking up into your engine from the road? Drain your engine oil and check for metal fragments. That should give you an indication if its internal. I look forward to hearing about this one...

check my post above dude. also zebra has made a pretty wild call but would give you those symptoms if it DID happen lol

In your oroginal post Rolls you talk about if the engine was screwed internally it would start but just run like crap. This isn't always the case. Whats got me is the POP sound. What goes POP and causes the engine to fail? So, lets get into the physics of it all. A pop is generated by a force of pressure being released This source of pressure in our cars can be two things. air pressure or boost pressure and would be subsequently released due to a voluntary disconnection somewhere in the air/turbo systems. Check your BOV Check all air and fuel lines Check your fuel system again and inspect the rail Check throttle cable

Shit you beat me to it you smart flamin mongrel! Air leak somewhere I'd say, if your 100% you have fuel pressure...

So you turn the key and nothing? No crank?

Sure the pop wasn't an intercooler pipe breaking its seal? That would give you the symptoms you have I'd say and its consistent with your boost up in 1st follwed by the breakdown.

Haha I knew you'd like that bro...and I think virtually any business up on SAU will do well - the community is strong enough and the spirit is there. Royal Purple will be appealing as well. I say go for it.

I think Rowan might forget about his new job and take this up fulltime lol. Epsteam or Skysteam would work well.