Deza3000

No worries! Cheers. Yep I skipped step 2 and just loosed with the oil filter wrench, wasn't too keen on disconnecting the high pressure lines. I did loosen the brackets from the mount and had it dangling so i had a bit of clearance.

Hi All, Thought i'd post an official translated guide from Nissan on how to remove a Nitrogen Accumulator Cannister. A friend was kind enough to translate the official Japanese doco for me with no ambiguity. I've seen a few videos and articles of people spending days trying to remove it... We spent 10 minutes... Didnt even have to remove the Attesa assembly from the car.. All we used was an oil filter removal tool. Common mistake is people dont depressurise the Canister before removal resulting it to be almost impossible to remove - similar to a air tight jar of pickles. 1. Depressurising the hydraulic unit Must take pressure off from the hydraulic unit before removing the unit from a car body - Can be done by loosening front part of cannister (before the Hex bolt) (Refer to service technical information no. 1891 for more detailed instructions) 2. Removal of the hydraulic unit assembly from the car body Refer to the car service manual for the instructions. 3. Removal of the accumulator from the hydraulic unit Loosen the accumulator using a pipe wrench while holding the thread part with rags to prevent oil spillage. Undo slow by hands ensuring the accumulator unit is facing downwards so that no debris would fall into the assembly unit. 4. Threads preparation before installation Clean thoroughly to remove all excess glues left on the threads. 5. Installation of the accumulator unit Apply 1.5-2.0 threads length of thread locker (three-bond 1324 equivalent) to centre position of the threads on the accumulator. Apply "Nissan power steering fluid special" all over the O-ring. Fit the accumulator unit into the hydraulic unit by hand with full strength then tighten using a pipe wrench holding a head section of the unit with set torque of 39-41 Nm. (As reference it is equivalent to 8 degrees or 5mm on circumference. Refer to the diagram below) From top (Apply "three bond 1324" / Head section / O-ring) NB: If you scratch the surface of the unit, re-paint with anti-rust spray. 6. Disposal of the accumulator unit Follow the label instruction for proper disposal of the unit.

Yea much better than GT Sport. GT sport feels like a prologue in comparison to this. Online feels about the same though

With you driving, probably In my pants

10w-60 castrol edge or 15-50 Penrite HPR. Ticking is fine though, you arent pushing power or doing crazy track days. Even then, won't matter. Most likely will have around 180,000+ks on it.

Lifter noise. Shes fine.

@Berksgtr It'll get close to 400 rwkw or 380ish awkw on 98. T517 is rated closely to -5s. Unopened 26s have hit that target. It'll just be a tad laggy by todays standards. Will still be good. Gotta start somewhere! Congrats on the car

THANK YOU!!! Keen on the Link G4, those look like its some good results. @Dose Pipe Sutututu Yea i was looking at platinum pro, not Elite 2500. my mistake.

@Murray_Calavera Nah the car will be tuned by my workshop. They can tune all ECUs but prefer Motec and possibly Link over Haltech. @Unzipped Composites Yep so safety features aside, I wanted launch control, boost control via ECU, Variable Cam timing control (so bugger off the HKS Valcon controller), Flex sensor so i can do both 98 and e85, possible flat foot shifting (Not sure if this requires Drive by wire or if it simply cuts ignition). If Link or Haltech can do all that then great, but from what i can see it was only Motec could control the VCAM

Thanks man!! Yea I was recommended Motec from my tuner and spoke to a few customers from CRD who were also recommended Motec over Haltech which is why i was opting for that. Though now that i think about it, their builds are more track oriented (samsonas Gearbox, 3.2l drag builds etc...). But i agree, Haltech has come a longgg way, some of the forums are a little outdated, the features seem almost identical and has dominated the US market. Ill have to do some research, not keen on spending 5k+ if i dont have too. Would you recommend Link over Haltech? Ill have a look into that as well, some of the Evo guys have recommended this ECU to me. Have also looked into AEM, but they dont seem to have all the safety that Haltech/motec seemed to offer

Ohh yep for sure, i actually was about to write that in my response haha. It would have saved me 5 grand for sure. Would have built the motor since the pump would have to come out anyway, wouldnt have had to repair a damaged head.

Not a problem! Overhaul including block modifications for oil return etc... extended sump, nitto pump, billet crank, forged rods and pistons + the vcam came close to 24k AUD. I had to also repair the head and a few other items unfortunately Otherwise it would have been 18k for a fully built and tuned engine. The engine died due to split oil pump gear, lost oil pressure and seized the head within a minute. When we inspected the oil pump, there was significant burn marks which indicated there was oil starvation (which i assume may have been from the night before as i was chucking it in hair pins around arthurs seat). The car lost oil pressure on a dyno day the next day

Haha nahh all good boys. At least i can post another back to back comparison once I've done the ECU with boost control. ECU seems to be the more popular upgrade so may as well cater for it.

Just gonna add, while I understand many of you don't agree with the choices I made for my build, the purpose of this thread was purely to help people justify the purchase of a Vcam and 2.8. Thought it might be helpful. My build is over 2 years old and have clocked over 40,000ks since... I have taken all your criticisms on board, but please keep in mind I've built the car based on what I thought would give it value for the given application and with the budget i had. I bought this GTR when it was worth peanuts, im not wealthy, so couldnt splurge on everything i wanted. I saved and made do with what I had. Yes could have gotten a ECU over the vcam, but at the time, Vcam was cheap and super rare, so i jumped on the opportunity. My engine failure was a result of oil starvation, so yes i dumped 1.5k into a sump and another 1.5k into a pump. I have projected ECU upgrades, suspension and brakes into my future modifications, of which ive already marked off suspension. Im just taking things one step at a time, the build isnt over yet! ECU is on the table and will be fitted to my car when the time comes. It all comes down to my personal and financial circumstances.

Not denying any of that, i've never done a track day though, so wasn't a priority. The car is literally a weekend donut getter and some spirited driving. Will get one eventually. Looking at Brakes and Motec M150s as the next upgrade - however this was not the point of this thread, it's digressed very hard. Haha thank you! It's had no changes to final drive, and also they used the OEM wheels for the dyno tuning (i think 255 40 r18 tyre?). Not sure about ramp rate or whatever. I can confirm the car starts building boost super duper early (1900rpmish?) Hard to avoid. I was looking at getting the HKS 256 exhaust cam, just to see if it will make any difference, i feel like it would probably help make power up top.

This^^^ Hence why I emphasised the "yes I still used fc" Ill admit the features are nice, will do an ECU upgrade when the time comes. As stated before, I budgeted towards preventing oiling issues rather than an ecu. The % of GTRs that have died from oiling issues is far greater than those with basic ECUs with limited safety.

Never said Bolt on spacer with extended studs. Also just re-read what i wrote, first sentence doesnt make sense, my bad..

Nahh i understand where you're coming from! Long story short, oil pump died and i had to build a motor. I had limited funds and so i just purely stuck to the 2 upgrades that would make the most difference. I only got the Vcam cause i got it for cheap, 3.9k including shipping and import tax so i jumped on it. Racepace installed/fitted the vcam at no extra cost, My Crank was damaged so I went 2.8. I also spent ecu money on preventative maintenance stuff so 9l Baffled circuit sump, Nitto Oil pump. It was snow balling when i started adding bolt ons, i.e. more boost means needed to do fuel system so another 5k, needed a new front mount as mine was still stock and hit its limit +3k, dumps HPI +700, Haltech + Trigger kit 2k+, if i went haltech id go flex, another 300 etc... Its money i didnt have.

Yea they are the dodgy 1 bar actuators garret gives for free. Will look into it! Im all for more response!

Yea I do agree with you, however wastegate creep is a result of excess cylinder pressure, by product of insufficient flow on the exhaust housing. In this setup, my -9s arent particularly big turbos, forcing the wastegate shut for longer can almost double cylinder pressure up top as exhaust gasses arent able to exit quick enough. -5 turbos with a Bleed valve hold boost all the way through without having to force the wastegate shut with an ebc. That being said, Ill send through another dyno sheet of my car after switching from a twin pipe exhaust to a straight through, ended up holding more boost uptop. As you said, EBC probably benefits more with external gates and big 600kw power builds. Ultimately rather control boost via a good ECU. This is all my opinion, i guess some setup has worked better for others. Ill see if I can! Not a problem! Glad I could help. So have I, had plenty of discussions about EBC, most recommend ECU controlled or just a bleed valve

I wouldnt just not trust just cheapo spacers, but spacers not made to the spec of your bore diameter or specd to your car. Best/most ideal spacer setup is to use nismo extended studs with hub centric Billet spacers that center and extend out from the factory bore. GKtech stuff is good. That being said, ive used the bolt on just jap stuff and it seemed fine too, endured launches, mountains and all.

Reliability may be the wrong word.. I meant reliability and longevity of the motor. Given the application, it provided no benefit switching to an EBC. Its still a street car. I'd rather save up and go flex and have a Motec control boost and maybe the VCam as well.

Yep Step 1 I probably should of added more context. I'm not a fan of EBCs, as per my tuners recommendations, these arent the best in terms of reliability, better off getting a haltech/motec and control boost using the ECU. We do control the boost using a static bleed valve set to the desired boost pressure. We didnt really want the gate to be forced shut for longer just to make a few extra kw up top as this increased cylinder pressure which as a result puts the car in a medium risk category. Was your car tuned on 5th gear or 4th? I have driven multiple cars with similar setups (differences being -5s, GTX -5s and my -9s), all VCam, 98 and e85 builds. I can tell you now that this car was the most responsive out of the lot, though tapered off on the top end. I should also add, after going with a free flowing exhaust, the car held boost for longer with no change in boost controller or boost. Edit: Just did a quick calculation: Yours would have been run in 4th 4th Gear @100kph is around 3790rpm on an 18inch wheel 275/35/18 5th Gear @100 kph is around 2900 rpm Seeing as it hit 20psi around 117kph 5th gear, its coming on full at 3380rpm.

Thought I'd make a post for reference for people planning their next build who are going for a stroker or vcam. Theres not enough tangible info on the net when it comes to comparing a stock 26 to a 2.8 vcam with NOTHING else being modified in the process. Its the most apples to apples comparison you will be able to get Mods before 2.8 vcam: - 2859r-9s - Fujitsubo Turbo back exhaust - Stock Dumps - Static Bleed valve (non adjustable) - Fuel stuff - Injectors, pump etc... - The rest is factory - i.e. intercooler, intake, head, cams, manifolds etc.. - E85 tune on a power fc (yesss i still use fc ? ) Mods After 2.8 Vcam: Just the Billet 2.8 stroker and Vcam - No porting the heads, no mods to exhaust/intake, just the stroker and vcam with the same bleed valve (unchanged in this dyno run)

My rarest part is this ARC diffuser, took me ages to find, a friend of mine found one for me! Coming in 2nd is HKS VCAM (i dont have any pics of my engine) Most favourite mod driving experience wise is the Mines steering wheel! Its the part of the car i use 80% of the time (20% being the gear stick), and i can feel and enjoy the full benefit ?