Old Gregg

There is blue connector on left and right bank at the front of the engine. Apparently they are the electrical connector for the VVT cam actuator. (These seem to be given a few different names on here.) These two links might help. Check on the above info as I was posting on here to try to understand exactly how these behave rather than offer advice. Good Luck. Following discussions are some help:

After sitting off the road for sometime I received my car (2001 ARX) back with a sound that fits the cam actuator problem - comes in at around 1600 rpm, up to about 2400. Starts after running for one or two minutes, marble in spray can/ clacking sound. When car was returned the oil was quite dark, run 5 /30 full synth. Oil and filter change, same full synth 5/30 oil. Sound still there after warm up. So this fits in with all of the postings re. it being cam actuator. Also note it tends to make the noise more often if accelerator is given little blips rather just pressed. What I am not sure about is why the sound stays no matter which of the 2 blue plugs at the front of the engine that you disconnect and disconnecting these do not cause CEL to show on dash. (Might make it very slightly quieter if the driver side is disconnected.) Inclined to think this means cam actuator/s are still the problem and are significantly damaged? Worth trying 10/40 oil? Possible further damage trying to drive to a repairer?

Have had a K&N oil filter for 18 months with no problems. Unless you put way too much oil on would not be a problem, seems to just be an easy thing to blame for other problems. Some stuff just gets repeated without direct evidence or experience. We all do it from time to time i guess. Doesn't hurt to occasionally clean the AFM still never noticed any difference after doing so.

My rodent nest was made from a 100mm by 100mm area of the fire wall insulation so at least it couldn't catch fire.

I didnt open the rest of the cable up enough to see it as coaxial. From what I can tell the black insulated cable is the core. The other seems to be the shield conductor but it is bundled in clear or pale coloured insulation for that last 5cm or so. For that last bit outside the flexible conduit it just looks like 2 insulated conductors, same colours at the other end. You can see a bit of the other conductor left at the plug and the cable Thanks for the offer I will see how it goes. Only problems may be, the quality of the solder joins as was hard to get the conductors to "tin", and the tolerance of the insulation to the heat. I may have made the cable a few cm longer so that may have a impact as well. Feels like normal again driving, will see how the first tank goes. Maybe there should be a rodent modifications topic?

Spent an hour or three pull off bits to get down to the knock sensor in the V of the block in my ARX. Computer attached to car to diagnose why it was running very rich and had retarded timimg came back with - "faulty knock sensor". Was assured by mechanic it was definitely faulty not a loose or otherwise bad connection. Have a look at the attachment and you will see a nest made of firewall material and chewed conductors. The mouse trap is artistic licence. Thanks to Scott I found my way down to the problem and now know a bit more about how it is put together. Hope not to have any left over parts when it goes back together tomorrow - once I repair the cable.

Thanks for the responses. Symptoms. Runs OK. Significantly down on power, comes on to boost later and not as strongly. Uses about 3L per 100km more with gently driving. Runs even more ridiculously rich while warming up. I assume is running rich and retarded. (Who does that describe?) Mechanic had analyser attached and it showed knock sensor faulty. I asked if it could read same if just a problem with the connector. He said the software could distinguish between faulty sensor and faulty connection. I was quite suprised that the stagea was in his device. That said, he tells me he paid a few grand for the last SW upgrade to it alone. Will double check connections on the week end but he isn't known for BS when not sure what is going on. Sounds like I might get him to put it in so he can do the swearing and loose skin but will have a look at where it is first.

I am after a knock sensor for my M35 ARX. New or SH. If you have a part number and advice on where to get one please post or PM. Thanks Matt.

95 won't hurt your engine. Sometimes forced to run 95 with only minor reduction in economy if any thing. You won't notice power difference cruising on th highway imo. While I haven't tried it have been told the ECU will also cope with 91 if stuck. You shouldn't find many places that don't atleast have 95. A lot of country Caltex have the 95 but no 98. Shell seem to have the 98 in country stations though not my fav fuel. (NSW) Wouldn't waste money on octane booster - if you are thinking of using these, research the actual boost to octane you get for the $ - stuff all. That might change your mind.

Have been told that the 80K nulon treatment results in hot spots as it builds up in low spots? That V8 clunker would have worn out even quicker as it had less protection at start up and until fully warmed up. IMO "stop smoke" type additives and thicker oil are a bad idea. They might mask the symptoms but will also accelerate the wear that is causing the smoking. Keep topping up until sorted. Is it using oil?

Glad you are doing the Chem homework I set you in class today.

Wouldn't the pressure ratings on the tyres be cold values taking into account any increase due to heat build up? ie 50psi max means 50psi max when cold. WGNPWR - Wouldn' Charles' law be a better one to throw in there?

Black just like pics I have seen of stockers. Maybe you could option bigger factory bars?

Thanks - Seem to have established my rear bar at 24mm is not stock. The front one has exactly the same finish so it might not be as well. Will have a better look for some sort of labelling.

Thanks. Will give tapping a try tomorrow. Did more searching with some success for a change and found posts from 2008 where Sydneykid wrote yours was 18mm rear hollow and he replaced it with 24mm solid? Anyone else checked what is on their ARX?