nik.

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About nik.

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    fittin' like a mittin'

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    Male

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  • Car(s)
    180sx & r33
  • Real Name
    nik
  1. nik.

    That is what I'm uncertain about too - having a pressure stage feed the stock pump My other option which I think you're suggesting the same - my tank will be mounted in the boot and will be level with the top of the engine if not higher. I assume I may be able to use gravity here and my stock pumps vacuum and plumb the oil tank feed straight into the bottom of the stock oil pump where the strainer normally attaches. Correct? I also had a look on us eBay, there is a ton of 3 or 4 stage pumps going super cheap so I may go down that avenue
  2. nik.

    Hey guys im looking to make my own dry sump system to go on my 1jz vvti in my s13 drift car but looking for feedback on my suggested idea as im not 100% and don't very commonly see it done the way i have in mind which is to have the external pump feed the original oil pump abit of background - I have made custom everything mounting my 1j in my 180sx. I have recessed the firewall and pushed the engine back about 70mm over a conventional conversion and lowered the engine about 40mm. to accommodate being so low and far back I have made a custom oil pickup & baffled sump which was about 30mm shallower than the oem item and wider to account for the lost oil volume. I believe it was right around the stock pan oil capacity if not a touch over. Ignore the welds - It has been cut and rewelded 4 times now as things change to make it all fit and was going to be remade at the end once everything is definite and I know it all fits. At this point im just not happy with how wide and flat it is and i've gone this far with everything so would prefer to just make a dry sump now ( and the sump is a pain in the ass to make. I don't want to make it again lol ) I was planning to possibly remove the bottom windage tray that you can see in my photo where im holding the oil pickup then to cut a flat sheet of 3mm aluminium to bolt over the opening. Then I plan to cut a 250mm length of 2" ally tube in half and weld the half in the middle of the 3mm plate orientated from front to rear of engine as a channel for my oil to pool to make my scavenge pickups. I was planning to run a 4 stage pump with 3 scavenge stages and 1 pressure stage feeding my original oil pump. I was going to weld a piece from the oginal pickup point straight down through the 3mm ally sheet I bolt on the bottom of the engine to attach to the pressure stage to my existing pump then the rest of the system as normal consisting of Ati balancer and drive with a peterson dry sump tank and breather setup in the boot. Im trying to simplify the setup to reduce cost as locally the golebys dry sump is 9700. Im trying to remove the need for all the expensive billet parts that may not be completely necessary i.e lower engine pan, oil pump block off, bellhousing block off, rocker covers without breather ports etc but still gain the benefits of a dry sunp being negative crank pressure, consistent oil pressure and double the oil volume Looking to run a moroso or savvy 4 stage pump but does anyone have any input of pumps to run / stay away from / what helps determine what sort of pump I run etc Its the finer details im lacking i.e how to select a pump to suit my setup Any help/ input would be appreciated!
  3. I actually wrapped it up today Was more interested in if it would disturb exhaust flow going flat or lose velocity, or if running a twin 2.5" would be beneficial because round etc I always read about "properly designed exhausts" but my take on a turbo car was just let it flow as much as it can Anyway, I guess there is nothing to gain. I've made it now lol
  4. Not sure if this belongs here or in fabrication but I'm more concerned about the technical side of this , so here we go I run a 1j 180sx drift car with a borgwarner s360 with plenty of custom shit I'm trying to make a 4" dump that merges to a 6"x2.5" oval section just under the front of the car and when it crosses under the tunnel (as a jz exhaust crosses under the car on any nissan) at the rear of the gbox it merges to 3.5" tube and points straight to the rear of the car I'm just wondering if anyone has any feedback in terms of performance or flow or any characteristics worth noting/ any discussion by making an exhaust like this I'm struggling to beat the metal to make it perfectly smooth. There is clearly some edges around the added in piece to make them merge but again, I dont think I'll encounter any issues, I'm just looking for any feedback/ discussion/ personal experience with changing exhaust dimensions/ shapes And 1 bay pic because nothing is anything without pics 😊 Cheers!
  5. Hi im currently building a 1jz vvti s13 drift car and it has come time to decide on a fuel setup. Im just wondering if this looks about right as I only want to do it once I currently have a 60lt fuel cell, aeromotive a1000 FPR (i believe) and x4 bosch ev14 2200 cc's (from my sr setup but I've decided against them in favour of bosch ev14 1000cc's) and was looking to purchase Walbro 450lph f90000274 (the high pressure version) Radium single internal pump e85 surge tank Bosche ev14 1000 cc's BPP fuel rail I was going to run a 1/2" stainless fuel line from surge to rail with a Y piece on the end to x2 -8AN fuel lines, 1 feeding either side of the rail with a -6AN return in the middle to the FPR then a 1/2" return line back to surge tank and possibly a fuel cooler in the surge circuit I currently have an 040 as a lift pump (again from sr) but i believe I shouldn't run a high pressure fuel pump as a lift pump. If so any recommendations for a lift pump? Car will run on e85 between 400 and 540 hp (depending what the car is doing/ how im feeling. Anywhere between 15 and 30psi) which I've seen the walbro 450s are not recommended below 500hp or is that not a concern? And is the f90000274 needed over the low pressure f90000264 pump? Base fuel pressure will be 40-45psi which running 30psi I believe I will be very near exceeding the f90000267's limit but I cant find any specific info on the 2 pumps and differences. Any advice/ discussion? I think i have it right but just want to make sure!
  6. Castlemaine Rod Shop t56 gearbox conversion and t56 info Hey im currently doing a t56 conversion and was looking to use a castlemaine rod shop conversion. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with them and their quality of bellhousing as of recent. Ive read a few good and bad reviews from the past years so wondering if anyone has any first hand info and if anyone has used a mantic clutch?? This is all going behind a 1jz (close enough to an rb) in my s13 drift car looking to make 600hp. Also wondering if anyone can give me any more info on my t56, its a 2009 ve SS box but missing a shifter and there is too many t56 im unsure which shifter and accessories I need but I need the shifter 200mm back from the current location. I chose to ask here (although not expecting much knowledge of this) because ive been a member here forever and didnt want to go sign up to holden forums if someone here could possibly help!
  7. yea 20mm spacer up front. heres a pic for any s chassis guys, no spacers
  8. hey guys, got my xd9 for sale, x2 10j +18 and x2 9j +20. Comes with 225/40 good tread, 215/40 falkens with some camber wear 3 as new and x1 9j brand new in the box, will fit the tyre before sale. located in wollongong, can ship but rather buyer pickup. $1650
  9. hey guys, parted out my r33 a while ago and still got a few bits sitting around that i would love to get rid of, list goes r33 maroon doors with handle and window - $50 a side ( passenger has 2 small dents under the door handle, not very visible ) r33 passenger side window reg - $50 r33 s1 ignitor - $50 r33 s1 front floormats ( no holes, etc ) - $30 r33 s1 maroon bonnet - $50 r33 s1 rhs quarter panel - $50 r33 tail lights - $30 r33 rear subframe and arms - $80 r33 fuel tank - $40 monkey brace suit all cars (sits behind front seats, across the floor) - $40 brand new r33 passenger seat rail suit side mount bucket seat - $50 r33 s1 front bumper, inside trimmed abit for fmic - $20 If any specific pics are wanted just let me know, im having trouble with the uploader located in wollongong contact nik on 0416 129 811 or pm
  10. S14 LCA's, missing 1 ball joint as i was going to swap to s13 balljoints then got mine cut/extended instead so have no need for tese ( same as 33 but also have provisions for swaybar ) $130 RB25 starter motor, works perfect , $80 cusco catch can, used for 200km then blew the motor, has been sitting in the garage for 2 years. perfect condition, $50 rb25 turbo heat shield, $20 sr20 clutch slave, $20
  11. coilovers, diff, side mirrors, front indicators all sold doors/ reg pending pickup