cameron

Sounds like some sort of wiring issue... unlucky! providing you have changed everything you mentioned...

Their website must be down today?? Nengun are slow.. but you will always recieve your parts.

Looks ovbious to me that they dont know what their doing, altho a 7 range is colder plug but they shouldnt foul that quick inless your o2 sensor is stuffed or you have another issue with running rich. Wow 4 days to find a AFM problem...

The engine had Arias piston and a 1.8mm tomei headgasket - Im unsure of the CR but if you know what comp the arias piston you could proberly work it out, Im guess somewere between 7.5:1 - 8.2:1 very low for a RB25, but this allowed us to run a consistant 32psi with out stressing the engine too much.

You goto be spot on their SK, Our R33 RB25 ran the GT3540 0.82A/R at 32psi of boost, hks 256cams with 8.8 lift no porting of the head, ran out of fuel to make extra power up top needed another 044. On 98octane it came out with 370rwkws and a 11.0 @ 129mph on slicks. So to answer the theads question... I think on race fuel and a bit of head porting you would see 400rwkws. But you would still have to run up around the 30psi area. So I would say it is safer to go the bigger exhaust housing.

You need a HKS Twin Power, the new coils wont alow you to run 1.0mm gap, they will still need to be gapped at 0.8

use a multi-meter, find which side of ecu is low on voltage, run new power to the ecu from fuse box in engine bay - its on ign switch. Im sure you can find the rb25 pinout on here some were. altho I have a question, Does the H/C display anything with just the ignition on, and does the lights on dash work?

90mm,VH41

Not if the AFM is maxed which is what this whole thread is about...

How would the T51r KAI go on a RB25, It would be a lag monster on a RB20....

General engine noise, it will be pretty hard to stop and its 100% normal at cruise to get around 10 - 12. Inless you pull 10deg timing which will make it sluggish.

Yes, Also a very good turbo depending on what version you get, might be a little laggy for him perhaps? Honstly if you want a turbo for drift GT-RS is the go, good response heaps of mid range if you can afford it

Wolf3D... great step up :lol: mokompri: What are you trying to say? If 2 differnet engines make eg: 300rwkws and if the AFM does not max on one it should not be max on the other becaues they have the same peak power. You'r claim eg: Car: Make 300rwkws at 7000rpm - None Maxed AFM Car: Make 300rwkws at 7000rpm - None Maxed AFM How do you know its not maxed, regardless of the peak power like I said AFM's generally max at peak torque point or close to it in the engine, whether its 5000rpm or 7k a MAX voltage of 5.1 is the limit. Too many variables, Were talking turbo's not superchargers! Let me know how you go adrian!

In my expierence's with the Q45 (one that works) I've tuned 2 different RB25's with 2 different turbo's same Q45 AFM... Sorry didnt look at the number on it. Engine 1: rebuilt engine, GT3540 turbo - running 30psi making 500rwhp maxing AFM 5.1vlts @ 5000rpm - engine was reving to 8k - peak power was made at 7500rpm Engine 2: stock engine, HKS 3037s turbo - running 25psi making 430rwhp maxing AFM 5.1vlts @ 5500rpm - reving to 7k peak power made at 7k We did not check these AFM with a multi-meter to see for sure that they were maxing out, these readings were from the apexi PFC. The cars drove fine etc, had no troubles with tuning the AFR's I know boost pressure does not = air flow through the meter. The z32 is a much better afm for tuning the only thing you could do is to put it into a bigger 90mm pipe.

Thats correct paul, Also to be 100% sure that the afm is seing 5.1vlts it doesnt hurt to check it with a multimeter. Shifting the load axes will certainly change a few things be careful doing this guys as afr's can go from rich to very lean quiet quickly.

Can't go past a Bosch 044

GT-RS = very good turbo, capable of making 400rwhp on 20psi with the right engine setup like thizzle said with the cams. This turbo is underated alot.

I herd their are 2 different models. Sounds like gambits is wired up wrong if its maxing that earily... 2rismo had a similar problem with his new setup.

4.7ltr

The wiggle up top is because of the 4wd. Wow thats quiet an increase.... Your right about the cams but you have to get the correctly match turbo for the engine's intensions. I've only ever seen thoes sorts of gains with n2o in place.

eg: Blocked oil feed to turbo, Turbo with no oil on bearings = to much heat/friction = The same thing that happens to every bearing that requires oil or a form of lubericant = noisy and broken If the bearing is completly fruguled and bits are gone = bad shaft play and wheel says hello to housing. Sounds like you need a new turbo

Isnt it a bad idea because somthing on the crank/harmonic balancer breaks?

Dyno Chart dont open ? Maybe you filled up with crap fuel/water in tank? - Just a sugestion.

There is fuel in that line so dont pull that one off. As others said look more towards driverside strut tower next to the fuse box. It will be connected to a solinoid along with another vacuume hose.

sorry double post. please delete this one.