Jump to content
SAU Community

GarageJunks

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

GarageJunks's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks heaps for the reply. I don't want to appear to annoying, the photo is a really good help, but where on the picture is the valve?
  2. The dash surround is in excellent condition. Has been resprayed in smooth gloss black paint and includes everything that normally connects to it, such as vents, clock ect. I'll ask $250 for it.
  3. Thanks for your reply. I'm not to sure what TPS or AAC stands for. When i cold start the car is strugles to get above 400 RPM, but if you leave it long enough it suddenly jumps to 1500 RPM... If i slightly push the accelerator pedal this causes the car to jump to 1500 RPM also... So it sounds like both idles are set where they should be. Sorry for appearing car 'stupid'.
  4. I have the following R33 series 1 parts Complete dash surround including air vents, clock, and electronic buttons. Standard cat back exhaust Left and right light/indicator stalks Standard intercooler PM me if interested, i'm not sure what these items are worth so price is negotiable.
  5. Thanks. I've got a feeling it might be some kind of injector issue, but im only guessing.
  6. I've searched on this site for my problem and there seem to be similar symptoms around but not exactly the ones I’m experiencing. When I cold start 75% of the time my car will stay at around 400RPM like it’s about to stall. If I ever so slightly touch the accelerator the car will bring itself up to the normal 1500RPM. In addition I’ve seen a lot of problems with people's cars missing at 5000 RPM. My car doesn't miss at 5000RPM but looses power after 6000RPM. I am getting full boost fine at 5000 RPM. My cars only mods are pod filter, exhaust and large intercooler. The car is not running an aftermarket boost controller, so it’s just standard boost. I'm going to take this car to a mechanic but wondered if there was something I could do myself to save money. I have completed an ECU diag, changed spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned airflow meter to no avail.
  7. Well i need dark blue. Any colour will do as long as it's in really good condition. PM me if your willing to post via COD, i'll pay the COD charges.
  8. Well how much are u asking then?????? Name the price if u want to sell it.
  9. I'll offer $150 and will pay for COD charges. Email [email protected] if you want to go ahead.
  10. Hi, I'm after an original Series 2 Rear Spolier with brake light. Need this ASAP.
  11. Standard boost, got new plugs that were gapped at 1.1? Did make a little difference. Regapped to .7 even tho i know im running standard boost and this improved a little more. Put injector cleaner through it helped a tiny bit. If i drive the car for 15 mins, turn it off for 10 - 15 mins, then get back in and floor it, the car doesn't miss! I just thought insted of screwing around with injectors, plugs and coils i could use a power FC to get a better idea about whats going on?
  12. I haven't seen or used a power fc before. I was wondering since my stupid car is missing at 5000RPM and onwards would a power fc help me troubleshoot this?
  13. To kill a GTR u are in the offical cool list. They are designed to be killed
×
×
  • Create New...