Sage222

Mine is at 130k (dont know if it's genuine). Had it since 78,000ks. 4 years. Only had minor issues. Wheel bearing, radiator, AFM, and a leak from an aspect of the fuel rail. All fixed by Scotty! (thanks mate!).

anyone ever find a part number for these? or an appropriate aftermarket unit?

yeah mate. running real well i reckon that atessa bleed has helped too.. just need to do that dif bush let me know when you get em in

just an update for those following and or having the same problem. My car was due for a front right wheel bearing.. This seems to have been causing issues with the atessa. making the car pulse power to the front wheels when cruising (50-80kmh). Also even gave me a symptom like fuel cut when using near or wide open throttle. both these things have been fixed by the wheel bearing replacement.. (thanks Scotty!). quite strange. we bled the atessa fluid too. so now i am back tot he occasional blip of front torque when going from first to second.. no other symptoms..

thought id do a big bump on this one.. I am still getting the blip of power to the front wheels (shows up on the front torque gauge) now and then usually when the gearbox shifts from first to second gear.. no 4WD light ever. (thanks scotty - that was just a faulty relay). Though this blip of power to the front wheels even when using very low throttle causes the car to do a very ugly shift into second. or very occasionally a slight surge at 60-70kmh. If i pull the relay and have the 4WD light come on (hence RWD only) car is smooth as silk. also smooth as silk if i flick to synchro. Anyone else have this problem? Going to bleed the atessa with scotty in the next couple of weeks though would like to see if anyone else has any ideas. just been doing some googling. Some people are saying that it can be caused by non-matching front and rear tires.. I run factory ARX 18's they did come with 235/50/18 though i changed them to 245/45/18. surely it cant be that?? Cheers.

thanks bud will do just out of interest who did your boot?

thats pretty scary.. yeah had a CV boot replaced about 10 weeks ago.. i watched the guy do it.. seemed to do it well.. have checked it its still intact..

no love? that's ok i got under it on the weekend. front right wheel bearing needs replacing

hey Rudi did this fix your issue? i got the same noise going on.. and same vibration through the throttle peddle... noise is far my noticeable above 70kmh for me.. hope its BOV and not something more sinister

so no one has done this for 5000ks or more?

big bump. now i am thinking about doing this.. anymore feedback on the job? anyone drove around in RWD for extended periods? any concerns? is the car technically roadworthy if you do this?

yeah mate looking good. only done about 50Ks just taking it easily initially will give a squirt on the way home tonight. thanks again for help! btw if anyone else is interested final code was 0100.

Would be f**king awesome mate. Just let me know when :-)

hey Scotty what hardware do I need to read the code properly? it did start btw and I got it home just need to work out what's wrong now :-)

Bugger. Even after clearing the code next start the cel returned. Attempted to drive it to pickup my kid from his grandma's it still was in limp mode though appeared to be driving ok. Filed it up with gas. Then picked up the kid and then it wouldn't start. Kicks over gets ignition tries to get the revs up to idle about a second and a half then stalls. f**k. Had to get the kid home so will have to go have a look tomorrow or Saturday. Will double check the cel and the hoses and connections though it sounding expensive. Strange that I managed to start it about 6 times and drove it for 40ks before it died. Only difference I can think of is that it's parked on a angle now. Maybe I'll Jack it up and start it. Really painful cause I didn't get it home.it's on the side of the road. Suggestions most welcome as always.

thanks bud it surprisingly drivable in limp mode. just wont give me any boost Ill take it for another spin tonight hopefully its gone if not ill give you a shout

So i was doing some spirited driving list night.. (in actual fact i was seeing what sort of 0-100 times i can do. (Entering the freeway at the on lights officer) First run was all good. Second i got to the top near the top of 3rd and felt like a fuel or boost cut.. CEL came on.. limp mode engaged.. Just checked the numbers (and cleared them). Came up with: P0018 OBD Trouble Code 1 result found P0018 - Generic Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled DescriptionCrankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Location Bank 2 Sensor A Anyone got any experience with this.. I havent tried driving it since i have cleared the code.. I am hoping it will just go away. I am thinking i should drop the boost down a bit too.. currently running LPG, with dump and midpipe replaced, break wire cut, bleed valve with factory controller removed running approx 16psi.. (factory guage reading). I really hope i aint broken it..

yeah i can see em though i need like 3 hands!

is there an easy way to open the f*ker? seems bloody hard. about to cut it open!

I disagree i drove round for a month with the CEL on no change to fuel or boost.

that brake cut mod is awesome. you get CEL after about 8 days though if you install a switch and just touch the brake pedal CEL is cleared automatically. even just driving around town the car feels so much better.

this has got me interested anyone got a source? how hard to install?

lol no doubt your kicks in on launch mine does too sometimes.. though i am saying mine kicks in on 10% throttle! thats why its such a mess..

yeah tyres are all only 5k old. It shouldnt put power to the front wheels unless the rears lose traction yeah? and in the case i can even be idling off from the traffic lights. whats the process for the bleed? cant hurt

I did do a search though seem to be getting conflicting information (c34 vs m35 maybe) Can someone please advise on how to bleed a m35 attessa system in plain english? Thanks to Scotty for helping me finally get rid of my 4WD light (relay in boot replaced). Though on occassions i get power to the front wheels as the car goes from 1st to 2nd even at very slow speeds which makes the car jolt pretty badly. (I can tell cause i have the Front Torque guage on the car). Happens about 1 in 10 starts from stationary. Hoping a bleed might help. Appreciate the help guys.