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Everything posted by hardsteppa

  1. R33 gtst Do-Luck chassis bracing kit. This looks like a roll-cage but isn't, it serves the purpose of stiffening up the rear part of the car. Same thing as this http://www.jdmautolink.net/2019/01/do-luck-rear-tension-set-bcnr33bnr34-05.html In my discussions with a Senior Inspector from Qld Transport, this does not require certification/mod plate as per his email " In reference to your Rear Tension Set I have done some research and I agree that it is not ROPS and as long as it does not affect the ability of the vehicle to comply with an acceptable level of occupant protection and comfort therefore with the padding you have applied and providing the device does not obstruct passenger access or headspace then I see no issue. " It is LIGHT so, can post anywhere in aus at your cost, or pickup in Brisbane. $375 + any postage cost, I estimate around $30-40 to most delivery areas.
  2. Rb20 are still available but definitely dont work in rb25, fyi
  3. I recently posted a dyno result for pretty much same setup as you; right in the 400whp mark at 21 ish psi. Not huge power but fairly usable for a circuit car IMO.
  4. if it's out of the car and the engine is coming out then, replace the bolts. It's what, $160ish? for arp bolts, and 5 min work on the press. If it's in the car still, then...hope for the best.
  5. put new ones in; pretty important fastener. I would, and did, use ARP's.
  6. Yrs, seatbelt place in qld, cant remember the name but will show in a google search. Mine is v.good quality and they do all colors not just shthouse black.
  7. I think those wheels use the oem centre and airbag so it is still the same, they just make a new wheel around the centre.
  8. Maybe something wrong with the way you search. I put in z32 r34 and first result that appeared was the comprehensive how to.
  9. Sorry OP, misread what you were asking. Starting mods; upgrade to a bigger battery, and run thicker cables to/from the starter motor. Should help with starting....
  10. Can of petrol and a lighter. Welcome to forums 👍
  11. Result for you. ATR43ss2 ballbearing version compared to Garrett GTX 3076 gen 2. Same 0.82 externally gated housing used on both, and the turbo was the only change to the setup. Forged RB25, Supertech valvesprings, 256 Poncams, topmount steampipe ex.manifold with Turbosmart 38mm external gate, 3.5in intake pipe, 3.5in turbo back exhaust, Apexi PFC. P98 fuel. Disregard the pink line; that was the GTX running an EBC that overboosted, run aborted. The blue line is the ATR43, no boost controller, just running wastegate pressure. The red and green lines are the GTX, also just running wastegate pressure....crappy ex.manifold resulted in spiking a much higher boost pressure, another story so disregard that aspect of the higher HP when it hits 24psi. Important part to note is the ATR making more HP through the entire run right up until the boost creep on the GTX. Also to note, the R35 afm in a 3.5in pipe was hitting 5v at the peak of the red run. Here's the run of just the ATR. Just under 400rwhp. Note this was also with an inadequate boost controller; now running a Greddy MAP controller allowing for boost to come on stronger earlier without overshooting at higher rpms, so the midrange is now stronger. Same dyno and tuner for both, just done at different sessions.
  12. edit - i meant edit not eidt. Ok i'm finished now.
  13. eidt - use a press with a LITTLE bit of pressure, not much at all, is what i mean.
  14. you need to either use a press with a bit of pressure, or get a bit of pipe the right size to fit on the metal lip, and CAREFULLY tap it on there STRAIGHT (it can be hard to get it straight, and not go on an angle).
  15. Might be the drain flap at base of the centre plate. It moves, but shouldnt make any noise
  16. Брисбан...далеко, lol.
  17. Привет алекс, Как дела чувак :). Россий это мой 2nd язык, извините :/. Где ты?
  18. Damn straight. 3.5in minimum.
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