chrisking666

Retard the exhaust 4 deg and it will be on boost in no time, i'd leave the inlet at 0. You have nothing to loose retarding the exhaust just be sure to reset your ign timing. I have played around with mine quiet a bit and the difference in lag from 0 to retarded 4 deg is awesome, it is MUCH more responsive but it might/will fall over in the higher rpm.

I actually thought there was a fault with the speed reading as I had run an 11.9 @137.7 about 20 minutes before hand but the 10.9 second pass confirmed it was right!

Yep stock box but it's not happy! Had to be nice to it on the launch (if you call 7K nice) but getting into 3rd was a struggle, hit the limiter right on the 400m mark in 4th gear, Limited to 8300 rpm Im looking to sell the car soon but would like to see 650ATW with Id2000's first, If anyone is looking for a good GTR it'll will be around $25,000 with new paint. The car is well built and will be reliable, (apart from the g/box)

So I went to the T and T last week and ran a best of 10.9 but at a whopping 138.5 MPH, needless to say they booted me out, but I was happy!!

Spot on mate, front diff was mince, I drove around 10klm with different tyre sizes, (bigger on the front by 40mm in circumference) and it was facked! 4 hours and it was all changed, I got a whole sump for $150 and now it's great!

Mine does the exact same thing, feels like driving an old kingswood

Copy that, I changed my rear diff gears on friday, from 4.11 to 4.375, no problems at all! Much better to drive, 3rd gear is way closer to 2nd now and the whole car fells much more responsive!! Win Win

Ok so I had a major brain fart when we fitted a new front diff, I got a whole sump which was off a gtr BUT it had the gears changed to 4.375 GTS4 ratio!! I didn't know this till the other night when I took out the top oil filler plug and counted the teeth on the crownwheel, of course there were 35 instead of 37. So this was why the 4wd was engaging and doing crazy things. Im just glad I didnt destroy another front diff by running it like ths. So the answer to my problem was fit GTS4 rear diff gears which i got for a steal from Aussie Diffs for $250 and that was for a complete rear diff! The new gears also make the car much more fun to drive with the shorter gears. Anyways the other problem was the relay in the boot for the attessa, It would work fine with a multi meter to test continuity, but when i plugged the pump back in it would not pass current. I changed the relay an voila it works great. I would clean all your wheel speed sensors as they are magnetic and attract all sorts of crap. Blow the rear ones out with an air jet and take the front ones out completely, which is easy as pie. I would doubt the g sensor is faulty and to test it try driving up and down a steep hill and see how it reacts, if it exaggerates the problem then it could be the g sensor but if not i'd look at wheel speed sensors. Im no expert by any means but I know how frustrating things like this can be and any info can sometimes help. Goodluck mate and please just ask if you have any queries. Cheers Christian

It's heaps of fun, had powercruise on saturday, the car went perfect, had the best day out at the track. Going to run it on Wed night at willowbank and go for a mid 10, then get the boot from the officials!

Me too...bump

Hi there, got my car tuned today at Pits on the gold coast. Mods as follows. R32 GTR RB26 bored, decked, cleaned, balanced and the crank ground. Ross pistons, total seal rings, Spool Conrods. Head is mildly ported, re-seated etc etc, Tomei 270 dur 10.8 lift cams, Brian Crower springs. N1 oil pump, tomei oil restrictor. 1200cc injectors, 2 x 044 pumps, 3L surge tank. Haltech E11v2 STD coils at this stage 115mm intercooler, chinese one i'd say, $400 70mm Billet turbo by Mark at Mr Turbo, Gold Coast 60mm wastegate, ebay cheapie. 4 inch exhaust all the way with 1 straight thru muffler. twin plate OS clutch. Tuned today on E85 from the pump, made 564 Hp on 26 psi, 528 hp on 23psi, and 501 on 20psi. Maxed out the injectors at 26 psi, looking at ID 2000's for the next tune. hopefully crack 600 which I don't think will be a problem.

Ive got the same problem with my 32 gtr, although mine is alot worse than this, it will engage awd at 10kph if you boot it and stay engaged till the car stops, I am going down the path of faulty wheel speed sensor, I spoke to Peter from Advan and he said its quiet common for the front right WSS to fail due to impacting the tie rod end to remove it from the hub when you pull out the front drive shaft, which I did recently. The impact can cause the sensor to become faulty and send false readings to the attessa computer. Mine is that bad the car makes a whining noise and starts to steer erradically and at 80kph the torque gauge is at 50!! All the tyres are the same profile/brand/size and the diff gears are the same.... So Im hopeing its a faulty sensor. Let you all know soon!

Front Diff???? ta

Hi mate do you have the front diff still?? PM me pls, thanks

Hi mate have you sold the sump yet, I need a new front diff. Im on the gold coast . Cheers Christian

I have just dropped the fluid in the transfer and its spotless, the front diff on the other hand had a thick metallic goo on the magnet and also there is about 10mm freeplay in the front yolk when you twist so im now assuming its a failed diff bearing. So next question can the front diff be completely replaced in the car??

Hi I got 2 new tyres on my car today and as I was leaving the tyre shop I gave it a boot full in first (not trying to spin the wheels) then grabbed 2nd, all good, then once I backed off to a roll there is a loud rattelingish type of noise coming fron the mid section of the car. I took the fuse out and the noise dissapears completely, so im guessing the transfer has thrown a bearing or something. Has anyone come accross this type of noise from the transfer case. The car has around 500hp ATW, all the tyres are the same rolling circumference which is why I got new tyres on it in the first place. Any help/advice would be appreciated. Cheers Christian Ps I you need any more info please let me know.

Do you have an Attessa pump at all?? mines cactus, ta

Attessa pump??? Cheers

I was thnking the same thimg myself, I have retarded the exhaust cam 4 deg and it has definatly made it come on earlier prob 500-700 rpm earlier with no sign of falling over in the top end. Im waiting for the adjustable inlet cam gear to arrive, I ordered 2 and only one turned up! pain in the arse really but when it gets here i'll advance the inlet 2 deg and see what happens. Cheers Christian

Im building a spool stroked 3.4 liter motor next, just wanted to spend some time doing the new motor so I built this one to fill in the time..Im sure i'll have no problem selling it when the new motor is ready to go. Im quiet aware of the lag issue with a big turbo, just wanting to know of peoples experience with varing the cam timing to counter act somewhat the large frame turbo hence the tread in the first place. Its running a .81 exhaust housing, 4 inch dump, and 3 inch exhaust but the exhaust will be upgraded very soon to 4" all the way. Don't get me wrong its great fun to drive but just wanted to get the spool time down as low a is possible with the 26 capacity motor. Thanks for your feedback everyone

Hi Andrew I cocked up and didnt realise it was in this section new to this forum stuff!

Yeah fair play mate, i will look into it a little more, kinda at the end of the budget at the moment, What brand/type of IC would you recommend?? I

Im thinking i'll just go and get a 4" cooler with 100mm plumbing from turbo to plenum and be done with it. Rolin Imports down the road do a 4" cooler for about $475 and pipeing I can source easily shouldn't be a problem. I'll do the rest of the exhaust as soon as im back from Thailand and get some more money together. Leaving to Thailand on Thursday next week so im runnng out of time and missus will kill me if I spend to much more on this car!! Looked at the muffler today and it turns out to be 2 1/2 inch ID so that would have definatly been causing some serious back pressure. Thanks

Cam timing is spot on, TDC on crank lines to both marks on cams and cam plate.....The only thing I havnt pulled off this car since I brought it blown up is the I/C, any chance it could be partially blocked, can this even happen?? last motor was over boosted, melted 5 pistons and broke the rear turbo. Well at least thats what I think happened as I brought it blown up.