HR32GTS 4DOOR

Why are you trying to get the cable out? The gts run brake will fit the gist disk, just take the hub off bolt the new one on and slide the disk on. It all fits.

Finally getting around to sorting the rear end out. Painting up the subframe and arms before it goes in. Funny how this will have better paint than the outside of the car. Just need to track down some GTR bottoms for my coilovers to fit the GTR hubs and it will all go in. Hoping by raising the subframe so it is a few mm from the body will eliminate the need for adjustable arms to get the alignment right.

I have 8/6 in a 32 (lighter than a 34) and 90% of the time its fine. Hell I drove from Adelaide to Brisbane once with them and they were fine. I do prefer a stiff car though. The other 10% of the time you will hate them eg. train tracks, speed humps, roads that are shit. If you want to track it now and then go the 8/6, if its only street driven go softer. Also I find cars with BCs in them are real bouncy and the damper in them doesn't seem to do the job. May just be how they are set up.

18x9 +30 will fit really nice, but will have to roll your guards a tad. Next time, have a search. It's all in here http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

I have the HRs (mono tube) in my 32 and they feel great. Can be a tad stiff at times but work really well on the track for a mild street driven car. Only problem I have with them is they can't go high enough.

Number 2 is a good idea. The mounts for the lca have a tendency to tear off the subframe when tracked hard. Happened to my 32, didn't hit anything just decided one didn't want to be attatched anymore. Although you could just buy some plate steel and cut it into shape yourself. The bushes are a good idea for a track car yours are probably rooted.

Haha I'm in Adelaide so unless you wanna drive from melbourne to here, It's all good.

You have in the first post that you have rear camber and toe arms, but no traction arms. How much have you lengthened the camber arm relative to stock?. If you lengthen the camber arm and not the traction arm you end up with a large change to the toe curve during the suspension travel, ie. Bump steer. The wheel will toe out under compression if the camber arm is lengthened and the traction arm is not. So when you hit a bump at speed, wheel goes up, toes out and it breaks loose. So either put the standard camber and toe arms back in and live with the hektik rear camber (assuming the car is low). Or By some traction arms, make a bump steer gauge and set it up properly.

It looks like a link G1 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414658-link-g1-ecu-plug-in-for-r33-gtst-skyline/

Arent they the same as a GTR rear end ie, alloy and need the fork style bottom for the strut? If so no they won't go straight in.

Wiring wise I just used the original rb20 loom, cut off the plugs for the injectors and soldered on the plugs for the 25 injectors. Then swapped injector pins 4 and 6 (I think). Everything else just plugged in and ran. This was a series 1 motor. Series 2 is a little different regarding the knock sensor sub loom and tps wiring but still pretty easy.

Did a motorkhana today at monarto. Car ran well engine wise all day, but had weird issue with low oil pressure at idle (around 10psi on aftermarket gauge) but was fine once you lift it a few rpm. Will have to look into this to see if the gauge is playing silly buggers or if something is going wrong. Wasn't any lifter noise when pressure came down so I don't think its actually losing pressure. The diff sucked major ass most of the day. Just wanted to single peg leg. Bought a gtr diff, shafts and hubs that i probably should have put in before hand, but I was too lazy. So this will fix that problem. The biggest problem I had was with the power steering. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this as I have been having it for a while now. When going from left to right really quickly like slide one way then traverse the other, it would feel like I loose all power steering. ie just bind and get real heavy. Didn't get any better or worse throughout the day so I don't think its related to the fluid overheating. Also the fluid in the reservoir was not bubbly. Fluid was changed about a year ago so would think it's not too old. Running hicas lock bar with the lines blanked off behind the rear solenoid. I'm thinking it could be one of two things. 1 - pump failing 2 - combination of an rb25 balancer running an r32 pump meaning the pulleys are the wrong combination. have an r33 pump that came off this motor when I bought it which I will put in and remove all of the hicas crap form the car when the s14 frame goes in. Hopefully this will fix it as its really hard to get the car to do what I want it to on the tighter stuff. All in all. A dam good fun day and it was only $25 for entry!

What is the spray pattern on these like? like a hose I'm guessing?

This thread is from the dark ages. Pretty sure they wont clear the front 4 pot brakes. Other than that the pcd and offsets work.

That's all you need. Looks like it was cut down a little short. You could go get yourself an abs diff as the nose is a little longer (like 10-15mm), will push the tailshaft further into the gearbox. The centre bearing should have enough movement in it to allow this.

Yeah looks like whoever did your tailshaft made it to short. How did you get the tailshaft made up? Was it a tailshaft from a non abs or abs r32? are you using a abs or non abs diff?

The twin plate makes it hard as you can't get the box close enough to the motor before it goes up even with a 20 box it's tricky with a twin. What you need to do is loosen the engine mounts, jack the front of the engine up and get someone else to push the back of the engine down. It's a pain but once the 25 box is in you probably won't have to take it out fro a while.

Man only Just saw that someone replied to this. Updates so far. Turns out one of the pickups for the passenger side rear LCA decided it didn't want to be part of the car anymore. For now its just welded back on to get me by cause its still my daily. Bought a reinforced s14 subframe that I'm going to put in when I get some time as I'm doing honours at uni atm and have sweet FA time to work on this thing. Going to pretty much mount it as high as possible with a 2mm or so piece of polyurethane in-between the chassis and frame to help damp the gear mesh noise form the diff. Also re bushing the whole rear end and buying new toe and traction arms (already have camber, didn't do my research and now realise if you only use them it sends bump steer all over the place) and set up the rear bump steer as best I can to make the car feel a bit more lively. Will post pics when I have time, which will be during uni break probably

The turbo one will work. all green label rb20 AFMs are the same

That cross member is the manual one, both sedan and coupe have same cross member. I'm guessing your car has had an auto to manual conversion if only two of the bolts line up as that is what happens.

Seeing as it was running and then stopped makes me think the exhaust cam pulley may have either jumped a tooth or wasn't done up right and retarded itself. Would a cooler pipe blown off cause it to backfire on startup? When I blow one off (lol) it will still fire then just die.

ABS unit can go, sell it to me I want to see if i can fit it in a 32

I'm guessing the key in the exhaust cam came off and you put the cas back on in the wrong spot.

I have one, it does its job well. Quiet as when its shut, just like a normal car. Was a bit disappointed though on how quiet it is when its open and I have no other mufflers just a 3" pipe from turbo to rear muffler.

Knock on idle? I don't think so. I'm saying if the base idle, when the AAC is unplugged and timing stable at what the ecu thinks is 15 deg, is set at let's say 1500 rpm (vacuum leak or something) and the idle screw on the ecu is set at say 900rpm, once the AAC is plugged back in the ecu will pull timing until it reaches that 900 rpm. This is what makes most cars hunt.