sleptema

Can you please change mine to 'sleptema' I dunno how it wasn't that to start off with. Thanks.

Fit 2/4 door? Style?

I will add you tonight. My gamertag is sleptema I like the occasional bane, but as I was discussing with a couple mates ealier.. I don't like pugna. In noobish games - yeah decrip, blast and dagon = early game greatness. But overall no stuns or real disables - sure great ms and attack damage, but on the other hand he is squishy, I can't bring myself to like him.

I would go so far as to recommend Riki. 90% of the time in noob games, no one will buy dust or ward - he will chop them all up. Drow is a fairly easy to play carry, Sven is always fun.. Ursa even. But yes, I would get used to playing a support hero first before trying to carry a team. My favourite supports are dazzle, rubick, warlock, seer. Easy to play supports are lina, lion, puck, zues - all with very high nuke damage.

I highly doubt that if something like an ebc or turbo timer is wired incorrectly in the dash would somehow affect only the drivers side headlight. If you have tested at the stalk and are getting power there, and none at the light, chase the harness back from the light, checking for any wear on plugs, harnesses - where they go through grommets are usual bad spots. If the passenger side is working, and the drivers is not - find where the harness T's off for the passenger side/drivers side and the fault will most likely be between the T and the faulty light. Hope I am helping.

This was for sale with a tomei built engine for 17k right?

http://www.rhdjapan.com/hks-camshaft-step-2-nissan-rb26dett-intake-272.html 10.2mm lift. 8.8 is less than stock?

I was pretty sure tomei/hks/nismo did sump baffles, but nothing is going to be as reliable as an extended sump, especially at the high rpm for drag racing. I would do it just for the reliability of the engine. I think by low end they mean 1-3k. Which for a drag car you will use 0% of the time. I believe the reason the low end suffers is because before the turbo begins to spool you are essentially trying to suck air in, and with a huge duration, it becomes null and void, but as soon as the boost kicks and it starts to push all the air in, the duration and lift begins to shine because you are able to force so much more air in, in comparison. I am not sure about the figures, but I believe stock is 9.15 lift, 264 duration?, hks step2 is 10.15, 272 duration? That is hell of a lot more air. I was reading the rb26dett tuning page and it said someone got a 60hp increase just from cams and adjustable cam gears. Obviously if money wasn't an issue, vct would make up for the loss of power low end...?

The miss could be caused by the coils, but I am not sure if it is causing the hunting. If the car has done well over 100k kms, the coils should be changed anyway. A set of splitfires set me back $400 and were easy to install, and should last you another 100k kms and will last with any mods you plan on doing. Like Plattsy said, try a ecu reset. Although I didn't think it needed to be off for 24 hours, I would have thought 20 mins would be enough.

Because of the low current draw on the park light circuit, a short can light up the parks tails and dash quite easily. I would try an isolation test. I am not sure how the lights are wired but - have the key on and the park light switch off. I would start in the engine bay - find the plug nearest to the drivers side parkers and unplug it. What happens? Plug it back in and try the passenger side. What happens? Now try both the tail lights one side at a time, noting what happens then plug them back in to try the other side (should be behind the material in the boot) If no plugs are found, remove the globes instead (careful - hot) When you turn the switch on for park lights, do they glow slightly brighter?

I am definatly no expert on this topic but I would have thought your valve train would be the most limiting factor on deciding what cams you go, not power. I personally would go high lift high duration because an increase throughout the entire powerband would be advantageous. But I assume you are worried about valve float because of the high rpm launches?

It's really hard to give you direct advice seeing as though I have never seen your game style. But generally mid lane is left for early gankers/roamers - for example pudge, shadow fiend, potm, qop. Basically as soon as mid reaches 6, they should be roaming to take out the opposition carries, if this does not happen, carry gets farm and becomes fat fast. I have been playing for a long time and I still don't take mid lane for the fact that if mid lane fails, the other team gains a huge advantage. Also I rarely play early carries. Sniper, who is fairly item dependant should take safe lane (bot for radiance, top for dire) with a support who can baby sit you, even a tri lane if the supports are good enough. A good support will ward to stop you being ganked, and pull neutrals, so you can get all the exp and gold from the creeps. Sniper who has debatably the best ranged attack animation, should have no problem getting 4/5 creeps per wave. Basically all you need to do is farm like a chinaman until mid game, and not die - which heavily relies on wards early game (because you so squishy) or until you get shadow blade. I personally like the perma stun build for sniper (very game dependant though, sometimes I will rush deso) which is mask of madness for early attack speed and escapability (sell late game for satanic generally) with abyssal blade (for stun and str gain) and mkb (for attack speed and true strike). Shadow blade is generally a good buy, especially if you are vsing a high damage team. The other issue you can have is your team. A good team will have a initator/tank, 2-3 support/nukers, 1-2 roaming gankers/nukers and a carry. The team basically needs to be built around the carry to compliment the hero and keep him/her from dying. When each player plays to the heroes strengths and roles correctly, you will completely stomp the enemy. If your team consists of 3 carries, a tank and a nuker with no supports, generally you are going to lose unless the other team makes the fatal mistake of letting you farm for 30 mins, then they are noobs and deserve to be punished. Sniper, who is generally a carry, needs farm, and if you are combating with 2 other people on your team for the farm, you can't get the items you need and will die fast. Or, if you are vsing a team with lots of stuns and nukes, and you haven't got a support to heal/immune you, and you haven't got bkb, no matter how much you farm, you will die. Sniper is supposed to sit behind your team, taking them out from a distance. You need to use your range to your advantage. If you were to have a team to compliment sniper, you would have tanky melee nukers (ogre, sven, omni) so the team is held away from you to give you time to kill and to escape. If you have all range, and you are all together attacking, there may only be 100-200 range between you and your team and you will get caught in the crossfire, as opposed to 600-700 away with a melee team. Sorry I may have gone overboard but that are some aspects that you need to think about before picking a hero as difficult to play well such as Sniper. Carries are hard to play correctly, and picking Sniper straight from the beginning of the match is just asking for the opposition to counter you hard. I am more than happy to help you if you need any more advice.

Winning.

Anyone from here enjoy a casual game of dota2? I used to play dota on the warcraft 3 FT engine. I wouldn't call myself a veteran, but I have been playing since I was 13 (8 years ) Any others? Should swap gamertags on steam and party up?

I would go 18's on a GTT, 19's will be too hard to fit, The right rim will look nice whether it is 18 or 19. You were the one with pumped guards yes? If the most aggressive offset isn't enough poke for you I would just run a hubcentric spacer, it will only be ~10mm anyway?

Guys, if you use the stock boost solenoid, it'll only boost to the stock setting anyway, which is 7psi, whatever turbo you run. That doesn't require a tune. You could even use an rb20 solenoid which is set to 10psi and you should still be fine. The only thing you are going to notice with a new turbo is spool speed. The bigger ex wheel you get, the longer it will take to spool.

If you aren't interested in the cost of high flowing, getting yours rebuilt with steel wheels and ball bearings would be well worth the money in the long run. You can bolt it straight back on for reliability for the next 100,000 kms. And as previously meantioned, if you wanted to get a little more adventurous, nistune/power fc + a boost controller and it will run 14psi all day every day no issues at all. The stock internals of an rb25 will take 350hp, (but you will need 18+psi to hit any figures like that, and new injectors and fuel pump) so 14psi will be fine. I had my 34 running 13.5psi on the stock turbo. Risky, I know, but it loved it!

Did not know that. I would have thought even if the manifold was a slight vacuum, the spring would still have enough pressure to hold it closed?

The only way a bov would effect the car on idle would be a seriously rooted spring, and the problem would a hell of a lot more noticeable during boost, in for form of no boost. Did the splutter only happen after stalling? Or does it just randomly happen on startup?

I wouldn't have thought leaving out bolts would be a safe thing to do. Especially since you are going to make power with a 26/30.

Yup sorry, wrong way around in my head haha.

Probably should meantion where in AUS you are. That may give you a fighting chance.

Depenging on how much extra poke you want will depend the offset obviously. I would go 18's, because of the possible slammage. 19's fit the wheel guard better, but also limit how low you can go. Anyway 10.5+27 is essentially the same fit as what you have now, so depending how wide you want to go. I am not familiar with GTR fenders, but I believe they are around 20mm wider than GTT.. How wrong am I? Based off 20mm wider, I would go 10.5+15, which is 13mm more poke then what you have now. On the rears... 40mm pump. Oh this is going to be sexy. You could go 18x12+0? Or 18x11-12. The 11's are going to give dish all day, all week, probably most of next month. Needs pictures.

Passenger side of engine bay is the boost control solenoid. Black vacuum hose going into the side of it. Pull it off, look inside and there is a restrictor inside. Drill or use needle nose pliers to remove.

After spending the past 4 hours reading through this thread, I have come to the conclusion on a few things: 1) I should probably get back to work 2) There is a lot of things that I still do not understand 3) I plan on building a 34 GTR myself, but I have much better ways to spend 3 years and god knows how much money on this kind of indepth project. Though, I admire the patience, skill, knowledge and workmanship that has been put into this magnificent machine. This is truly remarkable and will hopefully change the future of modifcation of RB engines, and cars in general - especially if this venturi manifold does spool that turbo in the way and at the engine speed that it should. Just a couple of questions Bobby. I know you have probably done many more calculations than I have on the following question/comment concerning the air compressor to try make boost on idle.. We had a shop engine we were trying to do the same thing to, and we could only make a measly 5psi after having 3 lines of shop air tapped into the manifold pointing directly at the impeller - obviously we could only get such low compression because the impeller runs off volume rather than pressure. How do you manage to overcome this? Also - 3 years is a long time to be working on this project, how did you stay motivated up to this point? I certainly would have lost interest and even reading the thread I skipped a few pages at the end haha. You were involved in building one of my mates' r34, I think you named it goldfinger. I can see now why he chose your company to build his car because you obviously have the willingness to go the extra mile for your customers as shown in his car, and in this thread. +1 to you and to your team. If I ever have the money (haha not in my lifetime) to do something as dramatic as this, it will be a no brainer who to go to. Good luck with the rest of the build.