dontfeelcold

Price drop to $6500

Price drop to $7500

Price drop to $8000

Does anyone know either a workshop or a person, that is based in Sydney, that has Consult 3 that could come out and do some diagnostics on my car? The car is a V35 with a CVT gearbox, I've tried a professional scan tool and Consult 3 Plus and none of them can give me anything useful. It's also stuck in limp mode, so I would prefer not to drive it. Regards Josh

2003 V35 Skyline 350GT CVT-8 95000KM Interior is in excellent condition for its age All fluids replaced in the last month. The CVT gearbox fluid alone was $1500 and won’t need replacing for another 100000kms. Brand new rear tyres, fronts are near new. Shocks replaced 6 months ago 12 months rego Some minor scratches and nicks on the outside. $9800 ono Located in Seven Hills, NSW Josh - 0405068912

Very nice. As a machinist, that part gives me a chubbie.

Did you make the cam sensor bracket? Was it made on a manual machine?

The sidewall height of the 265/40 ends up taking up alot more room. 265/35 would have been easier but the 40 looks nicer to me. Ride height is 330 rear, 340 front

I haven't tried it. What you are doing should work. The best place to start would be to use an oscilloscope to measure what the solenoid sees (from the factory HICAS ecu) and log it then replicate that in the haltech.

265/40/18 Rims are 18x9.5, cant remember offset, with spacers I think its +20. front: massaged the back of the wheel well, folded the sheet metal join at the top and I had to make custom guard liners. Rolled the lips and pulled the guards out alot. There is about a 5mm gap between the tyre and the non pivoting (steel) part of the upright. rear: had to roll the lips and pulled the guards out slightly. I even had to push in the bulge on the inside at the to the top of the rear wheel arch.

Less squat correct but the pressure at the contact patch will be the same (possibly more) given the same acceleration. The stiffer spring applies the weight of the car to the contact patch faster than what a softer spring does.

Has anyone seen RB26 pistons like this before (see video) Possibly a high comp piston but using a cone shape instead of raising the whole centre section. https://youtu.be/-_SkOA8uhkM?t=207

Mine is still not leaking since the rebuild. Someone who understands orings "SHOULD" be able to figure out what is needed but most people aren't. I contemplated doing a guide but there is potential for things to go wrong. If or when it goes wrong, you will have no brakes. The biggest chance of something going wrong is from not bleeding it properly. I would put my effort into fitting a late model Bosch unit in. It can easily be done to look like factory and bleeding would be a breeze. You will need new lines made up and to modify the R32 ABS bracket to accept the Bosch ABS unit.

Brand New Genuine Nissan Water Pump Only suits R32 GTR RB26 and HR31 RB20det Part number 21010-58S25 $100 Gates Timing belt to suit RB engines, brand new, unused, no packet. $60 Pickup from Quakers Hill, NSW, 2763 or postage for individual items is $10.

Price drop, free +postage. Going back to OEM sideskirts.

Price drop, free +postage. Going back to OEM sideskirts.

FREE POSTAGE!! Just want these gone.

bumpy bump

Pickup from QUAKERS HILL, NSW Postage can be arranged. Didn't like how these were fitting and despite a bit of cutting I gave up. One is untouched the other has been chopped a bit but can easily be fibre-glassed back together if your handy. Painted in white. $50, off the top of my head postage will be about $30 depending on location.

Just do a google for R34 GTR FSM. Its actually a supplement to the R34 FSM. R32 and R33 ABS has 1 solenoid per channel, R34 has 2 solenoids per channel.

R34 has 6 solenoids, R32 has 3. You need to run extra wires.

Still no leaks. Waiting on a part to be modified and some more orings so that I can have all the orings replaced.

Please don't bother replying if you can't directly answer the initial question.

You people are still misreading the initial question.

The threads are rolled, very poorly I might add. The finish indicates worn forming tools. I can say this due to experience in manufacturing head studs. So, back to my original question. Has anyone else got a new idler bearing bolt to see if it is like mine? Could you please post up a close up picture? I'm not interested in anyone's opinion, that's not what I am asking for. I am asking for a picture of the threads.