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Posts posted by boxheadmr
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is it possible to have entrant number 539 please as this is my combined clubs number.
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It has been a little while but have just entered for the day, looking forward to the day.
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Boats would be more accurate..Most of us tow race cars not buses [emoji4] Fat car 1,500 + trailer 500 = 2,000kg. Actually my Z is around 1,200kg and that's a bit on the heavy side. I do travel light, no spare set of tyres etc, if you want to get that pro get a truck. -
Ahh no worries.No mate, I’m in Shepparton, Victoria. -
Sutton's Waitara?I work for a Jeep dealer (for another week anyway) and I must say the Grand Cherokee diesel is one of the best towing vehicles around for $60K on road. Now that they come with 5 years warranty it definitely gives a little more confidence to own one. Like most imported cars they're pretty pricey to own outside of warranty. They get the worst rap (undeservedly mostly) of any vehicle I've ever dealt with. They really are a bloody good car. (I'll still say that next week once I've left!)
Any of the big cars with V6 diesel (Jeep, Audi Q7, Touareg, Benz GLE, etc) will smash anything else when it comes to all round towing ability, handling and fuel consumption. V8 diesel Toyotas are overated. Good if you don't mind 25l/100kms fuel consumption.
Everyone has a budget and a preference so many may disagree! -
When has purchasing for the man cave ever been rational?
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Interesting article about the Commadore and Falcon as tow cars.
https://www.motoring.com.au/the-last-great-aussie-tow-tug-109555/ -
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it's a bit of a sidetrack, but this webpage was absolutely awesome and I used a lot of the advice from it for my wiring job https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
Obviously I'm no sparkie but I've done a fair bit of wiring over the years including a bunch of annoying failures when I hadn't done stuff properly and everything those guys said made sense.
Doing so much wiring from scratch, particularly when you have "plug and pin" sets mean you can run single new wires from point to point without any dodgy joins. I used:
5-10a power or earth (almost every power circuit): #20 wire and deutsch DT connectors
>10a: #16 wire and deutsch DTP connectors
Some bigger wires like main battery and earth I had to run 00 or similar and have a big battery lug crimper for it.
For joining any wires (eg factory loom power sources to the smartwire) I used these awesome heatshrink splices. You crimp them down (the usual red/blue/yellow sizes) and then melt the heatshrink to allow glue to support the joint instead of the crimp, they are great. http://www.solidkit.com.au/product/krimpaseal-heat-shrink-crimp-waterproof-butt-splice-joiners-bulk/. I also used a few super helpful reducers in the same stuff eg red to blue or blue to yellow, really helpful for joining 2 wires into 1 where needed. They are semi-transparent so you can see if the wire is seated properly too,
Crimping the deutsch terminals is super easy because the tool for each size holds the pin and crimps it in 4 places which is almost impossible to get wrong, I think I literally only stuffed 1 in the entire job.
For things like earths I used regular crimp terminals in red/blue/yellow with a ratchet crimper which is much easier than the cheapy plier style ones.
I also have a generic crimper for non-insulated terminals which was OK but got very painful by the time I finished all of the smartwire and haltech pins. And the smallest size on this was still to large for the AMP/haltech pins so I needed to tighten each further with pliers which sucked. If I had to do more of them I would have bought the proper tool for these too.
All of the gear including the proper crimpers cost a bit but I expect it to be super reliable now.
I also used a lot of dual wall / glue lined heatshrink where cables come together and between cables and connectors. Also spiral tubing and electrical tape on longer runs
The key idea is to avoid soldering (because it makes wires brittle due to heat and solder's lack of flexibility) and to support the wire other than by the actual join/crimp on the wires (ie by it's insulation/heatshrink/tape/spiral cover etc) to limit the strain on the wires and minimise the chance of the actual wire being damaged. And the other key thing is to test every single connection by giving it a reasonable tug after crimping; if it falls apart now it won't last long on the track.
What strippers are u using with the wires? -
How boring are you blokes, who gives a shit about some fat flogs 4 ring circus suv with wow 240 kays and his shitty old trailer.
I wants pics of Drunkens import.
Give that man a beer. -
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Hows the fitmemt of the cooler with the exhaust?
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Agree with the cost. No way they cost that much to make even in smaller numbers than passenger tyres.
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Duncan, have you tried the soft AO50'S? Surprised you have them down the list.
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The bosch 044s are not really e85 tolerant. I have probably had my set up for similar time but i am concerned about if others have had failures with genuine ones due to e85 then it might be only a matter of time.
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So you can't modify the internal infeed to take a an fitting and hose from the surge tank?
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Hi, I have a nismo internal pump and a Bosch 044 external pump from a surge tank. I installed it after having fuel surge issues and it fixed them. I run e85 and am concerned about the longevity of the Bosch 044 pump.
I was wondering if it was possible to use the walbro e85 intank pump as an external pump as a replacement for the Bosch 044?
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By tool set what do you mean? Spanners, sockets?If you had to buy a good price/quality toolset, which one would you get ?
Got a cheap and crap one a while ago and snapped a few tools already so I'll spend a bit more to get something decent but tool brands are different to Europeans one and not sure what to go for.
Stanley is the only brand I had before so if there is other good quality tools that are affordable for the Sunday kind of work, I'm listening
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If the paint is in pretty gpod nick soda blasting might be a bit extreme and you might be better off just sanding back a little and painting.
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Your workshop floor is so clean.
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Sorry to bring back an old thread but i couldnt help but think how funny fatz is talking about safety. If i remember fatz car trailer was the thing of ledgend for being so damn dangerous even the tyre rack fell off one time and i had to weld it back up.4wd all the way
if your trailers and car are close to your tow limit just add fuel and tools and your well over
not worth the risk
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Pros for diesel.
Easy to refill.
Smaller
A leak won't explode you to death
Do they smell?
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Can't wait to fire up this bad boy!
Are the gas ones better than the Diesel ones im bunnings i see atm? I was thinking of buying a Diesel one as i thought the diesel might last longer than the gas cylinders?
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This is the one i had
The Cool Tools Thread
in New South Wales
Posted
Have to spin my box around 90deg to get it out and in. Is it still possible with one of these or does it get in the way?