albertm7

Thanks for all the input. I've decided to mount the brake hose bracket further down and move the lower collar up. This way, the two collars are in contact and I'll have room to adjust the ride height. I'm putting a metal hose clamp underneath the hose bracket so it stays in place as well.

I think I misunderstood you. I was suggesting the exact same thing Osborn. I'm trying to figure out the exact amount of torque difference between spacer vs no spacer but having trouble with the equation lol. Also, how would that affect suspension geometry? Not saying it wouldnt, I'm just not sure. Shaving the collar is a no go as I would have to shave it down completely. Can't really tighten it up after if I do so...

Yeah but the rim sits on 5 studs whereas this would be one. Or actually, it should be sitting on the hub so the spacer wouldnt make a difference. Just being a devils advocate here. I'm pretty sure the extra few mms wouldn't matter though... There would still be thread left at the end.

Hello, I recently purchased and installed a set of Bilstein PSS9 coilovers on my R33 GTR. I was successful in lowering the rear coilovers but I ran into a small problem with the front. [/url] The lower collar hits the control arm preventing me from lowering it any further. [/url] I was wondering if I can add a small washer to push the coilover slightly out to give it a bit of clearance between the collar and control arm. Has anyone ever done this and tracked their car? Would the extra millimeters put too much shear on that stud? Thanks.

Hello, I couldn't seem to find this information anywhere (I may just be bad at searching) but as the title states, can anyone tell me the torque specs required for tie rod and front ball joint ASSY installation? I own a 1995 R33 GTR. I've tried gtrcanada, gtruk, and tried to find the FSM for something other than the motor and yielded nothing. Thanks.

Hello guys, I have a couple of questions for my BCNR33 that may or may not be stupid. 1. I want my car to be COMPLETELY rust free. Do you guys prefer acid dipping or media blasting (I read that acid dipping will get into places where I can't get paint back on again). 2. Whether I decide to dip or blast, I'm going to have to completely strip my car. Do the rear quarter panels come off to reveal the chassis or is it part of it? The reason I ask is I realized after I bought the car that it looks like it had been in an accident and the right rear quarter panel all the way to the rear taillights have had some major bondo work done. I was planning to just take off the panels and just replace them but all the pictures that I've seen online where people have their cars stripped have the rear quarter panels still on them (ex. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/156289-r33-gtr-road-legal-track-car-5.html, this is exactly the type of work that I want to do to my car).... It would piss me off to no end if I knew there was bondo still on the car.... 3. If I strip the car and realized the chassis is damaged, is it worth it to try and repair it? With enough expertise and $$$, would it practically be new or will it always be a "damaged chassis that was repaired" type of deal. I know it depends on the severity of the damage, but I don't think there is anything significant as I have been driving the car for 2 years now and have not noticed anything (although I don't really have a baseline to compare to as I have never driven another BCNR33). I'm just the type that has to know that EVERYTHING has been restored or it'll bug me. 4. Any metal that is not welded onto the chassis does not contribute to chassis rigidity, correct? As you guys can probably tell, I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to cars, but I have big aspirations. I want to do things correctly from the ground up and before I touch the engine or suspension, I want to know that the chassis is in good condition first. Thanks from Canada, Albert

Ahh so confused now... I'm sure someone has done the brakes here before, does anyone have advice or torque specs that they used?

Hi Rob Thanks for the quick reply According to the 350z FSM, the front 2 bolts are 152.1 - 154.9 Nm and the flare nut is 14.8 - 17.6, I think I will go with these as they are the exact same brembos I'll use the link you gave me as a last resort for the rear torque specs but it'd be reassuring to know the exact toque specs as the rotor size (300zx: 294.64 x 18, GT-R: 300 x 22) and the caliper brand & size (not sure about 300zx but GT-R: 40mm diameter, since the rotor is different size the calipers should be different too I think) But in the end, as long as it's on there real tight, it shouldn't matter TOO much right?

Hi everyone I am planning to change out the rotor & pads but I don't know the bolt torque specs for the rear calipers I know the front brakes are identical to the ones used in 350Z track edition, but I could not find the torque specs for the rear anywhere (to my knowledge, there is no full FSM for R33 GT-R, only the engine manual, in english at least) Oh and this is my first post on this forum, I just got a R33 GT-R as my first car! they just became legal last year due to a 15 year old import law Thanks in advance

Awesome build! the links to your pictures don't work though :'(