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TimmyMA70 last won the day on May 24

TimmyMA70 had the most liked content!

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About TimmyMA70

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    N14 SSS Pulsar
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  1. Very cheap, although excellent quality too 😃 They're definitely a good thing. Glad I could help. Any more questions, feel free to ask.
  2. The fuse panel is a bare panel which I bought terminals and seals for. I looked at a few OEM options, however I couldn't find anything as compact and neat as what this system offered. Plus it's IP67 rated - basically water proof. If you're interested this is their website: https://store.chiefenterprises.com/bric
  3. Another small guys, finally have the oil cooler lines ran, was a fair amount of trial and error to get them to clear everything, however I'm happy with the end result. Just need a small amount of spiral wrap to use where the hoses go past the radiator/support panel. There is only a handful more jobs to go, then the engine can finally go in 🤩 As always, thanks for reading
  4. Hey Guys, This is only a quick update: I'm elbows deep in wiring, although really enjoying it. Slowly tidying up this loom, I thought I'd share a progress shot: Also, the fuse/relay box is completely terminated now, here is what it looks like on the inside: Thanks for reading
  5. Not a huge update guys, Needed a break from the wiring, so decided to finish the engine off. New OEM coolant hoses all fitted up now and the engine is ready to go in...... Once I finish this wiring 🙄
  6. Thanks man!! Haha, alot of time in those brackets dude! A few were remade when I wasn't happy with them. Thanks for the words though dude, much appreciated 😊
  7. Thanks for reading It should be a fun little all rounder once the engine is in, shouldn't be too far off. Just a bit more wiring and I can drop the engine in.
  8. Hey guys, Some more updates, been busy making up brackets and doing a bit more wiring. I am using an Aeroflow AF49-1012. Only issue is that the N14 and GTiR pump cradle is alot bigger that N15. In all my research, the answer for this 'issue' was to just cable tie the new smaller, high flow pump into the cradle.... I wasn't ever going to do that.. So long story short, Walbro make an in-tank fuel pump insulator, this one worked out ot be perfect. Pump sits in there very snug. Found a spot for my electric water pump controller. It is a bit of an awkward size to mount in/on or around the dash without being hard to access. So decided the glove box will have to do. Made this mount for it, the loom will be going out the back of the glove box via a wiring grommet and the bracket will be painted black, of course. Then lastly a bit of a bigger update, finally have my ECU mounted: This is where the OEM ECU lived. The Wideband module sits underneath the Haltech as well. The brackets will be removed and painted, black as well. I've still got a heap of wiring ahead of me... Thanks for reading.
  9. Thanks for the words mate. Appreciate the feedback In my opinion they are quiet an underrated and often overlooked car, I have had a huge amount of fun in mine so far, can't wait to get this chapter finished and get it running again though Just trying to knock over a small project every week to keep it progressing forwards. Currently waiting on a heap of OEM coloured trace wire to save changing the schematic. 500k kms is a testament to your maintenance schedule as well as the car mate, some guys seem to have all sorts of trouble with SR's, although I believe alot of it comes down to a bit of mechanical sympathy. Ahh awesome, does the Stag have a build thread?
  10. After paint: I've got some paint to fix up the gouged up paint in this picture too. It was caused by the power steering reservoir being removed to access the oil filter, however unfortunately the OEM NIssan wire hose clamp was scratching the paint up every time it was removed...
  11. Then it was onto the oil cooler mounting. Went with a 10 row Aeroflow oil cooler. They're rated to 10 bar working pressure, 25 bar burst pressure SR20VE oil pumps are very high pressure and it isn't unusual to see pressure around the 8 - 9 bar. Also used the Aeroflow mounting kit which made mounting the cooler very simple. Had to put a bend in the center vertical support to give the oil cooler clearance, put it in the spot where the reo bar will cover it up. I am waiting on some black bolts to show up for the oil cooler, will tie in much nicer.
  12. Added a couple of small gussets for rigidity and went to counter sunk bolts: It'll be painted satin black today. Same as most other things in the engine bay.
  13. Then when I was happy with that, mounted the thermostatic plate: This is with one thread engaged on the oil filter: Clearance to the guard/chassis rail with the filter wound right down:
  14. Hey guys, another update. Started setting up my oil cooler setup. I'm using an Aeroflow AF64-4112 which is an all in one thermostatic oil filter block. Had to make up a bracket to mount it, so decided to whip out the CAD software (Cardboard Aided Design) Came up with this: Once that was made and I was happy with the fit, I bent this up:
  15. Hey guys, Another update, Been busy doing a heap of wiring in the N14, the relay box, which was on the RH side of the engine bay (Drivers side) was in the way, That happened to be where I wanted to setup my remote oil filter/thermostat for my oil cooler. So naturally it had to go. On closer inspection there wasn't a whole lot of relays in that box that I was actually going to use, so with the help of a leco mate of mine we stripped the loom back to basics, assessed what we actually needed and the best way it should be routed. We can to the conclusion that the Relay box was redundant, as was the fusible link box on the opposite side of the engine bay. There is a few relays I did still require, plus added a few extra's so the N14 was brought up to date in the way the headlights were wired. This is the relay box that I am left with. Circuit breakers will replace the fusible links to keep the whole system simple. This was the hole I decided to utilise. Made a bracket/brace to mount the relay box into. Finished product (painted the primed section of chassis rail where the battery tray was fitted too) With the lid on.
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