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About sideburnie

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    Rank: RB20E
  • Birthday 08/02/1972

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  • Interests
    Beach, family and turbo boost! The spider is turboed too.

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  • Car(s)
    2001 ARX, fiat spider
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  1. Just checking, but you all know about the throttle cut out from the ECU with brakes on right? NM35 all have that problem due to ECU having a throttle restriction when brakes are on and I think for about 3 seconds after brake release. I would assume PM35 is the same? Solution is the brake wire cut/switch mod (look for it on forums). I did mine - very easy to do. Better option is to get a re-flach of the ECU - some on ebay for NM35 - Nm35 stagea vq25det stage 1 ecu reflash its-rom
  2. Old thread, but there may be some interest? i just picked up Andy65b plenum spacer off a wrecker in smithfeild.. plus the Nismo ECU steering wheel and cruise module.. (anyone know about how to wire it in?). not much left of your old car Andy. Shame.. still, I give the old bits a new lease of life! Anyone interested in the spacers? I can source some bakelite and probably can laser cut them at a teacher mates' school.
  3. WTB tow bar for m35 Hi all looking to buy a towbar for my ARX. Based in Wollongong. Phil 0467 626374
  4. I want to get this done, put me down. Located in wollongong.
  5. HI Scotty, any chance you still have the tan front seats in the back of the wreck? If so I'm keen. Mine have cracked and I want to donate them to my fiat spider if I can find a good replacement pair of seats. Not sure how to get them from Melbourne though. A courier might be pricey. Cheers Phil
  6. Hi Scotty, I am in need of the tailshaft centre bearing. Mine is shot. Looks like the whole 2 peice shaft has to come with the bearing as it is pressed on and the bearing is one peice with the carrier? Does the wreck have a good tailshaft and bearing? it is a lot to ship to wollongong but sounds like it is the only option for me.
  7. It makes me crazy /laugh when I read the first comment on this thread! So many tyre places and so called alignment guys are full of crap. Tyre guys give uneducated opinions based on NOTHING. just personal opinion. The front and rear are FULLY ADJUSTABLE so you can set them up perfectly for "australian"roads. I have an educated opinion at least (15 years as tech engineer for Bridgestone and an engineering qualification) and we know our cars. Firstly if you can find the specs, use them. SOme vehcicles are a little different due to design (eg 350Z need more toe in because they have toe out issue under braking) or F/R balance - some FWD run more rear neg camber to give rear bite... but as a general rule: Set them up to suit your dirving needs and roads. eg i drive flat freeway but still want a bit of neg camber for cornering - so half to 1 degree of neg camber, put a bit of toe in for movement of bushes, under braking and wear (1mm measured on the right tyre /wheel diameter). Re tyre pressures, if you are running 45 series or lower put 40 psi because they are easily damaged if they get a little underinflated. esp if they are subject to excessive camber. the lower the aspect ratio - the more pressure for safety (up to 45). I run 38 in my 50 series, I would not go under 34. Re tyre wear, how long is a bit of string? depends on alignment and driving. I will get at least 45000 out of mine because I do a lot of freeway. You get what you pay for with tyres. Nankangs and wanlis etc just dont have the balance of grip and wear and are really bad at recovery (slalom). I remember testing wanlis on a reps HSV. I nearly lost the rear end by the 3rd cone and had to abort at 70km/h whereas Bridgestones did 80km/h and just kept going where I pointed them - no snap oversteer no wash - just grip. But if you like power oversteer coming on easily, and dont mind fighting for your life dodging a kangaroo or animal when the tyre wont recover, go for the wanlis!
  8. Great, Im in the gong too. I will probably get the same. Also was that price including the ball and wiring? Did he have to cut the rear bumper? Any pics yet? thanks..
  9. Here is my other more impratical fun car.
  10. Hi all, was searching about sub frame cracking, as my stagea ARX has it on both sides of the upper subframe. I was wondering if there was any evidence for what the cause was - I baby mine pretty well and dont dump it off the line... BUT i moved house earlier in the year and loaded heaps of gear in it - AMAZING HOW MUCH YOU CAN FIT!!! So ..... That could be the main reason ... damn. Well it sat pretty low a few times... I had to move a 3 car garage... Now.. can someone tell me how difficult it was to remove and repair. I imagine a good TIG welder could fix it pretty easy. Has someone done it ? did you re-enforce it with a peice of al over the top of the crack? thanks
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