Bruno P

Well 4 weeks in and mechanics still hasent pulled out the box yet. unbelievable. Im hoping its clutch fork or something. Hard to believe its could be pressure plate its not as If I thrash the thing daily, doesnt the pressure plate need to heat up dramatically before loosing its clamp load. Can a crappy thrust bearing cause the clutch not to disengage?

Could it be my thrust bearing?

Hi Dobz, yeah when I left work that same day it didnt want to select into first gear and wanted to take off with clutch pushed in. Adjusting the pedal did help slightly. I checked all the lines for leaks and didnt find a single drip, thats why i was convinced it was the clutch master or slave because I heard that they can be leaking internally which can cause similar problems, but once I changed them it still didnt improve. Could it be I have struck 2 bad exedy clutches....what brand clutches do you normally go?

Hi mad082, is the clutch fork pivot bolt the same as Clutch fork pivot ball? If so when I had my clutch installed about 8 months ago I had a Nismo clutch pivot ball installed. But not to say that It Isn't that I will definately find out when my mechanics pulls out the box. Im just worried that he wont find the cause of the problem if the problems not an obvious one. Does having more springs on the button clutch itself help? Also forgot to mention the clutch thrust bearing was making a slight noise. Each morning after I start the car and the clutch was disengaged as in clutch pushed to the floor i could hear a noisy thrust bearing type squeal. But when the clutch was engaged there was no noise.

Hi Dobz, yeah the clutch played up in a single day, drove to work it was fine, when I left work it was a completely different story. Yes the clutch is dragging. It wants to move forward when the clutch is disengaged and its a real struggle to get into gear. In order for me to actually drive to work the following day I had to adjust the clutch pedals free play, removed the slackness which only helped a little. Glad to know its not the flywheel.

Hi All, once again im experiencing clutch problems, only 8 months ago I had a similar problem which was when I posted this link http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/368200-rb25det-clutch-problem/page__fromsearch__1 About 9 months ago I purchased an Exedy Extra Extra Heavy Duty Button for an RB25det, Manufacture Part No: Exedy NSK-7056HHHDB installed, together with an exedy lightened flywheel and a Nismo clutch pivot, after only 500 km I was experiencing clutch problems, wouldnt go into gear etc the clutch was pulled out and sent back to Exedy and it was deemed faulty, although they didnt want a bar about warranty claim and was $500 out of pocket. After it was deemed faulty and they refunded me I decided not to go for the Exedy Extra Extra Heavy Duty Button but instead went for Exedy Extra Heavy Duty Button Clutch Kit (NSK-7056HHDB) with lesser clamp load. Now 8 months on Im now having similar problem and cant believe it, what luck. This time I was positive it had to be Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder because when taking the car to the mechanics my foot sunk briefly to the floor and lost pressure. We replaced both master and slave with new ones and still no luck, problems still there. Ive previously had 2 button clutches put in the car over the last 10 years and never had any problems, and not to mention they were just a basic heavy duty button and I generally get around 4-5 years out of them. The car has just over 300 rw kw, I know a twin plate clutch is in order but I dont do racing or drag strips its just every day driving with the occasional drag here and there plus there too expensive. My meachanic will be pulling out the clutch within the next week or so but simply putting in a new cluch wont resolve this issue from coming back within the next few months. Can anyone suggest what might be the cause of these clutch problems, I do have an Exedy Lightweight Flywheel (NF01) installed with my first clutch that had problems and I still have the lightened flywheel with my current clutch problem. Can the lightened flywheel be causing this? How do I know if my clutch pedal is faulty or worn.? what clutch brands can be suggested Any info would be great Cheers

Hi I got someone to do some polishing on my R33 rocker covers about 5 years ago, they did a fantastic job, price wasnt too bad, but then again all metal polishing isnt super cheap. It was done by a small business off Ballarat Road right near a go karting place, and its not Ace Go-karting either. Im looking up some as we speak because Im wanting more stuff polished, I cant remember the business name and not really sure if there still there or have moved. Either way here are a few numbers I recently found around sunshine vic. In motion Metal Finishing 20 Fourth Ave SUNSHINE, VIC, 3020 local (03) 9311 3313 Western Metal Polishing Sunshine North, VIC, 3020 local (03) 9356 9100 Mobile: 0427 112 226 1 Whitehill Ave, Sunshine North VIC 3020, Australia Sunshine Metal Polishing Address: 47 Webber Parade, Keilor, VIC 3033 North VIC, Western Melbourne Tel: (03) 9336 4243 Whether these business's still exist im not sure, best try ringing the number and see how you go, If I find anymore Ill post them on here for you Cheers

ok fair enough I thought most people do some knid of head work to the Rb25 heads but according to a few people i spoke to they did recon these heads do flow exceptional and that porting will basically only give you more mid range power but not really any top end power. Any other feedback?

Hi all Im basically needing some help, info and suggestions in regards to doing some head work on an r33 gtst head I've rebuilt the bottom end about 5 years ago, forged piston conrods etc the car currently has 297rwkw and i was thinking about getting some head work done like a port and polish but not my area of expertise The only thing I did to my head when i rebuilt it back then was Tomei poncam 256 duration by 8.5 lift, as it was the only cam available at the time that were drop in that didnt need upgrading of valve springs. So im thinking of porting and polishing, was looking at Tomei type B valve springs with retainers, not sure if I should go single or double, possibly oversized valves, and Tomei Pro Cams Solid As this is a street car i dont want it to be too rough but am wanting some more power as the car is currently only on 20 psi and really wanna be getting around 26-27 psi but in saying that I do have a Garrett gt35/40r with a .86 housing or something as the car is manual. Can anyone out there give me some suggestions on what size cams, valves springs and different brands to go for example Procams. 260 0r 270 degrees? 9.25mm or 10.25mm inlet exhaust as Im just trying to get my head around what to choose from and remembering trying not to spend the maximum but still trying to keep it street driveable. Will my current poncams be good with a port and polish or are they time wasting. Also as I didnt O-ring the block I was wondering If anyone out there has ever o-ringed the head, Is it possible? Does anyone know of anywhere in Melbourne that can do change over heads instead of having car off the road for ages also? Any info or feedback will be appreciated. Regards Bruno

eventually sent the clutch back to exedy and the clutch is deemed to be faulty as it wont release, cant believe it. they refunding money though. BP

Having issues with new clutch, about 500km ago I had a new Exedy Extra Extra Heavy Duty Button for an RB25det, Manufacture Part No: Exedy NSK-7056HHHDB installed, together with an exedy lightened flywheel and a Nismo clutch pivot. Over the past week the car has these symptons, Hard to get into 1st and reverse gear when cold, and just as bad when at running temp. With the clutch fully pressed to the floor and the car in 1st gear the cars still moves forward, Gears grinding, impossible to drive, Had enought of it and took it to the mechanics. I sat in car on the hoist as he bleed the master and slave just to make sure there is no air in the system, or a leak. Still no improvement at all. Mechanic is assuming its a problem with clutch fork, he thinks it may be bent, he wants to purchase a clutch fork before he pulls the gear box out. Does anyone out there know or have had any similar problems, I'm a bit unsure about buying a new clutch fork before the box is removed just incase its not the problem. and even If I replace it who's to say that the new clutch fork wont do the same, flex, break, or is there an aftermarket forged one I can buy. Any suggestions? Cheers

Hi I recently purchased Universal 80mm Throttle Body for an R33 Skyline which requires a TPS (throttle position sensor) from a series 1 which I also purchased. The features of throttle are, Features: - 80mm intake (internal diameter) - Open surface area of over 50cm - Universal fittings will accept most TPS/throttle position sensors (BOLT-ON for the S1 R33 TPS) - Adjustable butterfly - allows for a pre-set opening at idle (required for LS1) - Butterfly is made of brass to insure long term durability under stress - Made of precision CNC machined polished 6061-T6 aluminium - 80mm suits 4 & 6 cylinder engines INSTALLATION ~ Weld/mount 4 bolt back plate straight onto your plenum! This is a BOLT-ON install for our R33 Plenum (GReddy style) For starters the key way or half moon as such that is suppose to slide into the TPS is much too large and I suppose it will have to be filed down to fit as I can only slide it on a little then it tightens. The second problem I noticed is that when Im trying to bolt on the tps I notice that the 2 bolt holes I am suppose to use to keep it in position might possibly be in the wrong position. My understaning is that when the throttle is closed that the tps is wound fully one way, and when the throttle is fully open the tps position will be fully turned in the other position. So if i was to install the tps with the 2 bolt holes provided on this universal throttle that would mean although my throttle is fully closed the tps would assume its half open due to the fact that key way/half moon and bolt positioning causes the tps to be set to the middle position on idle. Has anyone bought one of these and experienced similar problem or am I a nut. BP

well thanks guys that has certainly cleared up a few things for me, got a few prices on an r33 series 1 tps and most wreckers around are asking from $75-$130 for a tps, and pretty much all of them are out of stock at present. To tell you the truth not sure if my Link ecu even has that feature that recognises the tps, although it is direct plugin, best way to find out how it runs without a tps is to unplug the tps,drive around and see how it idles, Does anyone know if the tps from a r33 series 1 will directly plugin to series 2?

Hi Im currently in the process in upgrading my throttle body to one with an 80mm butterfly for my r33 gtst. I noticed that the throttle i purchased need a tps (throttle position sensor) from a series 1. Considering my r33 is a 94 model i was positve the tps I had was a series 1 but it doesnt seem so, my r33 gtst must be series 1.5 or 2 becuase it has individual coils, no amplifier and other things which seem similar to series 2 including the tps, which has 2 plugs but seems only one is in use. Do I need a tps at all with my new throttle body, reason I ask is i read somewhere that with an aftermarket computer with map sensor that a tps is no longer necessary. Can anyone verify as im a little confused. Cheers Bruno

nice waiting on delivery and will get started