megzz

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I have an unused Cometic RB25 MLS (Multi Layer Steel) head gasket. Bought it for my engine build but ended up needing a thicker one. 87mm bore x 1.2mm thickness or .51 thou It has been opened but is completely unused. Located in Ryde, Sydney but happy to post. $150

I'm surprised there was only 1 mention of Motul in this thread. Thought it was the RB owners favourite?!

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I'm after an 2wd RB25 oil pickup. Located in Ryde, Sydney

Hi guys I'm after a replacement sump and oil pickup for an rb25. it can be new or used, genuine or aftermarket. I'm located in Ryde, Sydney. Thanks

I have the Nissan workshop manual but it doesn't detail the oil flow /path it just shows how to assemble oil pump etc. Here's a photo of it I got this from the oil control thread its for an RB26 though How do you guys troubleshoot a blocked oil gallery - with drilling as a last resort as the block as it has already been cleaned and assembled...

Hi Guys, Does anyone know where in the oil system does the VCT feed, feed oil from? i.e where does the feed tap into the rest of the system? if possible could you highlight it on a photo for me? Its hard for to now that the engine is partially built.

So I drilled feed with the top of the block facing down (I used a bit smaller than the hole size so it didn't cut any metal) and some oil dried up like jelly came out. The feed seems free now and I can get a pick in there but compressed air still doesn't come out of the feed. I've tried blow air through various spots including both oil filter ports and the oil pump port but i get nothing from the front VCT feed!

Yeah I think that's my only option. Any idea why its a check valve? The others aren't...

Hey guys its definitely blocked. any ideas??

Thanks pal, that makes complete sense!

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 25. Just looking at my VCT oil feed, I stuck a pick into it and it only went in a max of 2mm deep. Is this normal, does the oil feed straight up into the gallery from the bottom of the block or does it 45deg into it? Hopefully this makes sense, I want to make its not blocked because VCT wasn't working when the motor was last running.

I cut a bit too much meet off one of my 2nd (scraper) ring so I am only really after the one ring to suit CP pistons with 86.5mm bore (3.406) Let me know if you have one or if you can recommend any where that stocks them. I'm located in Ryde, Sydney, 2112 Thanks

Cheers guys. I'm having a mate of mine who familiar with building engines do the gappings with me, though i just wanted to recommend him the gap sizes as he doesn't do a lot of RB's. Another question - Is measuring the bores and numbering the pistons to suit each bore still crucial with today's quality of pistons? Do Pistons vary that much size that could potentially cause issues? Well on a car that will make around 300kw's anyway? r33_racer: I've read a few of your post's and i already know what you are going to say!

I'm in the process of a rebuild and I'm after a dial bore gauge and ring filer.I'm looking for something of medium to high quality. No rubbish Can anyone suggest a store or website? I'm in Ryde, Sydney

I'm in the process of a rebuild and I'm after a dial bore gauge and ring filer.I'm looking for something of medium to high quality. No rubbish Can anyone suggest a store or website? I'm in Ryde, Sydney

Forms and payment are on their way

just 98 pump fuel. 20 psi and definitely no plans nitrous!

I'm in! Will sign up asap!

I'm rebuilding my RB25 with 86.5mm 9:1 comp CP Pistons. CP recommends the top ring = Bore x.0055" and the 2nd ring .004-.008 bigger than top. (where as in older thread CP recommended the top ring = .0065" or there abouts) My question is, is CP's current recommendation safe to use to avoid the breathing issues that they were previously known for or should I still am for a tighter gap? (Will be fitting oil restrictors as well.) My setup should see a max of 300kw with a hypergear G3 running 18-20 psi. Street and track use. I've search over the last few days but the threads I found are few years old now and it's quiet possible that ring materials have changed so its probably time for a new one. Cheers

Really sorry for the short notice guys but I have to bail on this. The next reserve can take my spot. Hope its a good night for all. Cheers Steve

Not at all, blowby was wasn't noticeable until the engine was leaned on Never the less its getting forged up now I'm fitting restrictors as per the table in the oil thread.

Engine/Car: R31/RB25DET Type of failure: Cracked piston oil glands in cylinder 2 and 4 (or maybe it was 5) Factors influencing the failure: Not really sure as the car was fine when it was running the stock turbo at 11 psi. Once I upgraded the turbo to a Hypergear G3 it lasted a month. 18psi was probably major factor as well as not really knowing the history of the engine. no sign of leaning out State of tune of the engine: tune was a month old, had it done after i fitted a Hypergear G3 etc. Suspension and tyres: bc Coilovers, Cheap bobjane tyres Oil used and service interval: Motul 15w, changed regularly General comments: It let go when I was at the drags, I wasn't going to hard on it cos I was still monitoring it and making sure everything was ok. blow by was a massive issue once I fitted that turbo. Though it was still drivable it was burning oil because of low comp in #2. Lessons learned: leave it stock unless you're prepared to spend $$$ chasing power.

bump anyone changed ECU's and wanna sell their FC cable?